Need insight on a 1996
12-16-2014, 08:29 AM
#13
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Clermont, FL
Posts: 2,952
Yes the clock works and is accurate. The odometer doesn't work. But I'm sure it's just the cable is broke.
That was the plan for the wheels as I would like to get the 98 GT split spoke ones for it.
That was the plan for the wheels as I would like to get the 98 GT split spoke ones for it.
12-16-2014, 02:06 PM
#15
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Clermont, FL
Posts: 2,952
I know I will need to swap the injectors when I put on the m90 but is there anything else I will need from the other engine? Also what parameters will I need to change in the computer to prevent it from going boom before I get a chance to rering the forged super coupe engine.
12-16-2014, 02:53 PM
#16
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: CA
Posts: 898
just some random info I found. not sure if it`s helpful or not but here it it
"M90 was originally produced in 1989. All were underrated. The 89-93 model setups have very poor flowing characteristics: blower's inlet, the inlet plenum, rotors, etc.
The 94-95 SC engines were upgraded. The plenum was improved, the rotors were Teflon coated for reduced temperature, and the throttle body was enlarged to 70mm from ~60mm to match the plenum. The 89 style received 30lb injectors and the 94-95 is 36lb with a better fuel pump. The setup was so more efficient that Ford put on a larger blower pulley to achieve the same boost levels that the previous models had received, and got a little more power. The 89-93 models were rated at 210hp/315tq, and the 94-95 were 230hp/330tq.
Most people end up finding the less efficient style for the swap. If you decide to run the stock 30lb supercoupe injectors, you will be limited to about 265whp and 350tq – not too bad.
The stock boost is between 10-12 PSI, which depends on how well the engine flows. Of course, you have a large array of pulleys to choose from to put on your setup. An OEM 94-95 style on an 89-93 blower will reduce the boost 1-2 PSI. Conversely, an 89-93 OEM pully on a 94-95 blower will raise stock PSI by 1-2. Overdrive pulleys are available for each kind. One just has to use common sense; the 10% 89-93 style overdrive pulley will obviously be the smallest (the one in my engine picture). More overdrive is not necessarily better, as the already weak intercooler and crappy flowing parts get heat-soaked quickly. I wouldn’t even bother with a 10% on a near stock engine due to the immense heat increase that would negate much of the gains over the 5%.
More info: (mainly single port stuff, but important information as well)
Assuming you are just doing the swap onto your stock short block, you MUST upgrade the injectors and fuel pump. You MUST have dual exhaust at a minimal, or you greatly increase the chance of head gasket failure. The 94-95 V6 mustangs are a little easier to swap because the 96-98 changed a few things. The 94-95, however, should definitely consider using the supercoupe heads. The valvesprings are stronger, it flows a little better, but most importantly, it has improved cooling passages which greatly decreased head gasket failure (95 stangs had a recall). The supercoupes had head gasket problems as well, but this can be attributed to their stock exhaust system. It was terribly designed with a 90 degree bend and poor flowing parts... which netted an end result of 15psi of backpressure. Thankfully, a simple GT take off system will due for our cars, and we basically have shorty headers straight from the factory (as opposed to the SC's log style manifolds). Other than fuel and exhaust, we need a tune to go along with it after everything is assembled. These are the only NECESSARY factors; cam, rear end, high stall, clutch, etc will simply compliment the setup. Obviously, with an engine of this power, stock parts are more likely to break. If you have the ability to upgrade things while you’re in there, do it. Preventative maintenance is a good thing.
Split ports:
The stock fuel system is a bit better, but I honestly wouldn’t risk keeping this stock either. You must switch back to the return style fuel system anyway (255lph walbro is good). Of course, a tune is required. As we all know, split port mustangs have different manifolds and heads that offer much better flow over OEM single ports. In order to get the M90 to work on your car, you MUST go back to single port. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, since there are several companies that offer single port heads that compete with PORTED split port heads. Big valve single-port heads would be a great improvement in flow over your stock split port engine’s. The only other setback of the single port design was the maximum throttle body size (60mm) that was limited by the upper intake manifold. Thankfully, the blower replaces this manifold and the inlet plenum connects to the throttle body. Even the stock, poorly flowing, 89-93 design plenum can be ported to accommodate a 70mm TB. The rotating assembly is comparable if not better than the supercoupe’s, so the splitport short block is actually preferred.
Misc info:
Found a radiator hose that fits perfectly:
Upper Radiator hose from a 1992 Buick Roadmaster (if it matters its an estate wagon)
Changing the throttle cable is NOT NECESSARY! Slight "ghetto rigging" required, but it's definitely possible. I'll have pictures of it sometime soon.
Potential modifications:
One of the best parts about this engine is the platform! It is extremely easy to make power with these motors. Intakes, throttle bodies, inlet plenum/blower packages, raised supercharger tops (stock ones suck, the one featured in my picture is upgraded), two stock intercoolers welded together (aka dual IC), front mount IC’s, 600ish CFM intercooler fan (cheap 10hp on stock IC), etc etc etc.
Freebie modifications are great. While you are swapping this whole thing over, it’s very easy to gasket match and port the lower intake manifold (and heads if you want). The plenum can be ported significantly to support a 70mm throttle body. The blower “V” can be expanded a bit to increase flow. Also, the blower’s silencer ports can be welded up, which increases the noise and power.
The best idea is to buy the whole motor or even the car. One of the benefits of having the entire motor, besides having all the parts on hand, is learning how everything is put together as you take it apart.
Summary: It’s a LOT of work. It takes a LOT of time. It will cost about $1000-1500 if you are running a completely stock mustang with single pipe exhaust. In the end, a relatively stock SC setup can put you into low 14’s with near 100mph traps. A particular individual on this site that is a bit tired of being asked questions did this swap. It’s a single port auto, stock mustang short block, minor V porting on blower- not hard, stock GT exhaust, 2.73 open differential with BEYOND crappy tires. His best time was a 14.3x at 98.x
Those are 99-04 GT times, and he has enormous potential for improvement."
"M90 was originally produced in 1989. All were underrated. The 89-93 model setups have very poor flowing characteristics: blower's inlet, the inlet plenum, rotors, etc.
The 94-95 SC engines were upgraded. The plenum was improved, the rotors were Teflon coated for reduced temperature, and the throttle body was enlarged to 70mm from ~60mm to match the plenum. The 89 style received 30lb injectors and the 94-95 is 36lb with a better fuel pump. The setup was so more efficient that Ford put on a larger blower pulley to achieve the same boost levels that the previous models had received, and got a little more power. The 89-93 models were rated at 210hp/315tq, and the 94-95 were 230hp/330tq.
Most people end up finding the less efficient style for the swap. If you decide to run the stock 30lb supercoupe injectors, you will be limited to about 265whp and 350tq – not too bad.
The stock boost is between 10-12 PSI, which depends on how well the engine flows. Of course, you have a large array of pulleys to choose from to put on your setup. An OEM 94-95 style on an 89-93 blower will reduce the boost 1-2 PSI. Conversely, an 89-93 OEM pully on a 94-95 blower will raise stock PSI by 1-2. Overdrive pulleys are available for each kind. One just has to use common sense; the 10% 89-93 style overdrive pulley will obviously be the smallest (the one in my engine picture). More overdrive is not necessarily better, as the already weak intercooler and crappy flowing parts get heat-soaked quickly. I wouldn’t even bother with a 10% on a near stock engine due to the immense heat increase that would negate much of the gains over the 5%.
More info: (mainly single port stuff, but important information as well)
Assuming you are just doing the swap onto your stock short block, you MUST upgrade the injectors and fuel pump. You MUST have dual exhaust at a minimal, or you greatly increase the chance of head gasket failure. The 94-95 V6 mustangs are a little easier to swap because the 96-98 changed a few things. The 94-95, however, should definitely consider using the supercoupe heads. The valvesprings are stronger, it flows a little better, but most importantly, it has improved cooling passages which greatly decreased head gasket failure (95 stangs had a recall). The supercoupes had head gasket problems as well, but this can be attributed to their stock exhaust system. It was terribly designed with a 90 degree bend and poor flowing parts... which netted an end result of 15psi of backpressure. Thankfully, a simple GT take off system will due for our cars, and we basically have shorty headers straight from the factory (as opposed to the SC's log style manifolds). Other than fuel and exhaust, we need a tune to go along with it after everything is assembled. These are the only NECESSARY factors; cam, rear end, high stall, clutch, etc will simply compliment the setup. Obviously, with an engine of this power, stock parts are more likely to break. If you have the ability to upgrade things while you’re in there, do it. Preventative maintenance is a good thing.
Split ports:
The stock fuel system is a bit better, but I honestly wouldn’t risk keeping this stock either. You must switch back to the return style fuel system anyway (255lph walbro is good). Of course, a tune is required. As we all know, split port mustangs have different manifolds and heads that offer much better flow over OEM single ports. In order to get the M90 to work on your car, you MUST go back to single port. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, since there are several companies that offer single port heads that compete with PORTED split port heads. Big valve single-port heads would be a great improvement in flow over your stock split port engine’s. The only other setback of the single port design was the maximum throttle body size (60mm) that was limited by the upper intake manifold. Thankfully, the blower replaces this manifold and the inlet plenum connects to the throttle body. Even the stock, poorly flowing, 89-93 design plenum can be ported to accommodate a 70mm TB. The rotating assembly is comparable if not better than the supercoupe’s, so the splitport short block is actually preferred.
Misc info:
Found a radiator hose that fits perfectly:
Upper Radiator hose from a 1992 Buick Roadmaster (if it matters its an estate wagon)
Changing the throttle cable is NOT NECESSARY! Slight "ghetto rigging" required, but it's definitely possible. I'll have pictures of it sometime soon.
Potential modifications:
One of the best parts about this engine is the platform! It is extremely easy to make power with these motors. Intakes, throttle bodies, inlet plenum/blower packages, raised supercharger tops (stock ones suck, the one featured in my picture is upgraded), two stock intercoolers welded together (aka dual IC), front mount IC’s, 600ish CFM intercooler fan (cheap 10hp on stock IC), etc etc etc.
Freebie modifications are great. While you are swapping this whole thing over, it’s very easy to gasket match and port the lower intake manifold (and heads if you want). The plenum can be ported significantly to support a 70mm throttle body. The blower “V” can be expanded a bit to increase flow. Also, the blower’s silencer ports can be welded up, which increases the noise and power.
The best idea is to buy the whole motor or even the car. One of the benefits of having the entire motor, besides having all the parts on hand, is learning how everything is put together as you take it apart.
Summary: It’s a LOT of work. It takes a LOT of time. It will cost about $1000-1500 if you are running a completely stock mustang with single pipe exhaust. In the end, a relatively stock SC setup can put you into low 14’s with near 100mph traps. A particular individual on this site that is a bit tired of being asked questions did this swap. It’s a single port auto, stock mustang short block, minor V porting on blower- not hard, stock GT exhaust, 2.73 open differential with BEYOND crappy tires. His best time was a 14.3x at 98.x
Those are 99-04 GT times, and he has enormous potential for improvement."
12-20-2014, 10:13 AM
#19
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: NV
Posts: 219
But I'm sorry, when I see "supercoupe" I think of Henry Cabot Henhouse III.
Last edited by TfcCDR; 12-20-2014 at 10:18 AM.
12-25-2014, 07:53 PM
#20
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Clermont, FL
Posts: 2,952
Started pulling the interior today to get it all cleaned up and found two used syringes with needles under the back seat.
Not surprised though as I picked the car up in a known drug area.
The interior is in pretty good shape overall just dirty.
Not surprised though as I picked the car up in a known drug area.
The interior is in pretty good shape overall just dirty.