99'PEGASV6

Hey guys I haven't been on here for a long time so I had a couple questions that came up after I changed my brakes (for the second time)

I'm getting a loud squealing noise when I'm driving. It seems like the brakes are engaging while I'm driving. I dont feel much of a pull or slow down when im drifting in neutral but the squealing noise persists.

Though here's the weird[er] part, when I put some pressure on the brakes, the noise disappears while I'm driving. So I'm applying slight pressure when I build up some speed to stop the noise =[

There is heat and the smell of burning brake pads (I assume) coming from the area (rear pass side brake) I jack the car up, try spinning wheel and it doesn't budge - brakes are pushing into it?

Process: only my 2nd time doing them myself but here's my process, maybe u can spot something I did wrong.

-Jacked car up, tried removed wheel
-unbolted 2 caliper bolts and pried the old brakes out
-kept caliper from freehanging, set it on top of removed wheel
- rented brake compression tool from autozone which compresses while it turns - compressed it all the way I could
-while compressing, the caliper DID move around a bit from me trying to compress the Damn thing, but was never unsupported.
-put brakes in and bolted the caliper back on.


Questions:
-did I do anything wrong or forget something?
-how do I release the brakes if it is clamping?
-any tests to see if it's the brake line or something, Idk
-This may be a face palm question but the rear brake pads are pretty much all the same right? (In one set of two, one doesn't just specifically go to the inside/outside of the rotor right? they aren't interchangeable)

Want to save as much money as possible, I'd hate to buy a new caliper. Took it to my local mechanic, and before he even saw or heard anything he goes were definitely going to have to replace the caliper... at least look at it first. So I don't want to give him business, it seems like he's the type to replace everything until the problem is fixed.

Thanks fellas sorry for the long post

petrock

It sounds like you did it correctly, except you skipped/missed the part about cleaning & lubing the slide pins. If the slide pins are messed up the caliper won’t float properly as the piston expands contracts and you’ll experience the problem you are having. It is a common problem on all disk brake setups (regardless of manufacturer). Maybe your missing the little metal clip that fits into the caliper that the break pads slide on? Or maybe your missing the metal clips that attach to the pad ears that slides inside the caliper. If the pads can’t slide properly then they won’t release from the rotor properly when the piston contracts. The pads are interchangeable. Double check the emergency brake too, making sure it is fully released at the caliper.

I made a video of how to replace the rear brake pads on my wifey’s ’98 which is the same procedure for your year. Maybe it will give you that “Ah Ha!” moment.


Good luck...

PNYXPRESS

+1 on the slide pins. they like to rust up, especially if the rubber boot is tore or missing

KrazyKen

You should not have to replace your calipers unless your caliper pistons are stuck. If the pistons are turning well and go back in, then your calipers should be fine. One thing to mention is that some (if not all) rear brake pads come with these little pegs on the back. You need to make sure the pegs fit into the open area of the pistons. But even this should not make the brakes stick, it may give you a squeal though.

I agree that the slide pins need to be checked and re-lubed or possibly cleaned and lubed. With the caliper off, test the slide pins by gently pushing the slide pins in. The slide pins should freely move out without any pulling. If the slide pins do not move freely, clean all the existing grease from the slide pins and the bracket that holds the slide pins and re-lube with new grease. Also as mentioned previously, make sure there are no leaks or tears from the slide pin boots.

Derf00

Don't know what all the video shows but...

Couple of things...rear calipers require you to turn them while you push them. Just Pushing them does nothing. You need to spin them with a special tool that engages the notches on the caliper piston to spin it.

Secondly, the pads have tabs that you have to align to those notches on the caliper piston. IIRC the notches on the caliper piston need to be at the 12 and 6 oclock positions so that the pad tabs seat into the notches of the caliper piston.

A lot people overlook this. I've done it too. If pad tabs aren't seated, the pads will ride the rotor and drag. In my case it got so bad that within a day it warped one of my rear rotors.

Oh, when you work on the rear brakes, you need to make sure the parking brake is released before you try to get the caliper off or change the pads.
Good luck!

99'PEGASV6

Thanks petrock! I appreciate the amount of information you gave. It's nice to learn about how these things work. I noticed that my old brakes had this little clip on the sides but it was all broken and worn down, the new brake pads did not come with em so I assumed that it wasn't needed(Guess I was wrong)

I picked these up: http://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-t...698_1610_4447/
They come with those antenna things on top but not the ones that are on the sides of the calipers (on the ears?) I'm sure auto zone or pep boys should have them, but what are they called? I definitely don't have them. Your video was extremely helpful, im going to take it a part tomorrow and run through all of that. But geez, it was so thorough I commend you for that!


Thanks for the confirmation !

Thanks! for the confirmation of the slide pins/boots. Really appreciated

In my OP I mentioned I rented the tool that twists and pushes in, but thanks for the tip anyways! I definitly overlooked it the first time I did brakes, and was so confused. Also, My car is manual trans, should I still worry about parking brake (emergency brake in my case) ? or is that just for automatics. thankss!

petrock

The pads I bought came the little ear clip things. I don’t remember if I bought them from AutoZone or O’Rielly’s. Either way, AutoZone sells a hardware kit: "Duralast/Brake Disc Hardware Kit - Rear” part # H5991 for about $10. Includes the ear clips, the clip that attaches to the caliper, and new slide pin boots.


Thanks. I appreciate it.


The parking/emergency brake needs to be disengaged or you will have a hell of a time getting the caliper off and turning the piston back into it’s bore.

Good luck...

KrazyKen

@petrock, just watched your YouTube video on brake pad/rotor changing. The video was very informative and very detailed. For anyone working on a 94-04 Mustang brake job this video will help out a lot. I liked how it was a step by step process and easy to follow. Looking forward to watching your other Mustang videos. Back to topic now, just wanted to express my appreciation for your work.

petrock

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Thats why I make them (to help people). Payin’ it forward from those who helped me out over the years.

99'PEGASV6

wow my slide pins are stuck in there pretty good. think wd40 is safe enough to use to get them out? i have brake cleaner stuff too. any suggestions would be awesome. I'm assuming this is my culprit. =[ It's really stuck in there though. I'd love any techniques or anything...

edit;; the only reason I can think of is that it's rusted in there... someone prove me otherwise =/
tried to do this method: at the 4:00 minute mark.. ended up ripping the bolt off trying to rock it back and foruth so the slide pin definitely has to be replaced. just have to get it out now. or replace the whole thing completely..



Also... the E brake line isn't coming off as easy as it did on the video. Definitely have my Emergency brake disengaged.