rygenstormlocke

Dyno times only on this....for now.

11PSI Spring Install!

• 320 RWHP
• 371 RWTQ
• 10.32lbs of boost!!!



[ul][*]Powerhouse Pipeline Turbo @ 10.38lbs (Note: 12 second runs were on 8.5lbs of boost!)[*]Powerhouse Lower Control Arms[*]Powerhouse Upper Control Arm[*]Powerhouse Drive Shaft[*]Powerhouse/CHE Drive Shaft Loop[*]Powerhouse/CHE Panhard Bar w/Poly/Poly[*]Powerhouse/CHE Panhard Brace[*]Powerhouse K Member Brace[*]Dual Flowmaster American Thunder Mufflers[*]SCT XCAL2[*]PHP Alternator Pulley[*]Ford Racing 3.73 Gears[*]Ford Racing TLOK[*]LPW Girdle [*]Reflashed Stock Converter
[/ul]

nascar17

[:@]This is frustrating. I see times that are posted on your site for nominally modified mustangs hitting 15.2 and 14.93's and I don't understand. I have a 2006 V6 Mustang Pony Addition with a cold air kit installed, 93 Octane Tune at Lamatta in Orlando, a true 2.5" dual exhaust with turbo mufflers, a spacer, and can't get out of the 15.7's even with a friend that has drag raced for years at Orlando Speedworld. The Dyno at Lamatta showed 187.56 Rear Wheel Horsepower with the above stated changes. I have also read, through Ford Corp. websites that the stock V6 mustang has 157 + or - rear wheel HP with no modifications, and have also seen it writted in Modified Mustang Magazine. I myself drag raced back in my high school days and won a few years of points and trophies back in the 70's and 80's and my first time out with the new mustang, I had a reaction time of .234 secs. and ran 15.7's all night long, consistantly, with a top speed of 88.75 mph and the best my friend got, who still races an 11 sec. car, was a 15.68 at 88.89 mph. Are the posted times from others real or is it balony. I have seen other V6's at this track and they are worse than me because they are stock, running 15.9's and 16.0's. Is my car that much of a dog. I am also having a hard time finding someone to tell me if nitrous will work on the Stock V6 bottom end or will I have problems in the near future. You read about everybody doing well with it but no references to reliability. I know its a selling point for manufacturers to show all the good, but has anyone run into the bad

Greg Wilson[&o]

boss 244

Greg, I had the same problem untill I changed my fuel filter (18$), plugs and switched to mobil 1. I instantly dropped 3 tenths, then 2 more(after some lightening and mod.). All the mods in the word didn't get my car going untill the base was working properly. Try those things and drop your tire pressure to 30 rear and max inflation on the fronts. I'll bet you a six pack of your favorite you go faster.

nascar17

Thanks for your input. Is the reason for the filter change because the ford version is no good and after market has better flow or might it be plugged ? Same question for the plugs, are after markets better. I did change the wires to the blue 9mm from V6 performance. Also, when Lamatta was re-tuning my car, they said my air/fuel ratio was bad @ 11.2 lean and they adjusted it to 13.5 rich. Is this to rich and may be one of the reasons I am so slow.. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.

Nascar17[sm=gears.gif]

rygenstormlocke

Actually its the other way around. 11.2 is fater, the higher the number the leaner your tune. Lean gives you more power, and can lead to detonation and popped pistons. I'm not sure what is acceptable NA for AFR, but as long as you are not pinging, you should be ok.

nascar17

It seems, since this change my car got slower. I was running more in the 15.3's before the computor change. I had the cold air kit and true dual exhaust done along with the wires before the re-tune. maybe I need to go somewhere else, except that Lamatta has been in major magazines for mustang performance. I did re-check my dyno-page and it does show going from 11.2 to 13.5.

Thanks[sm=dontgetit.gif]

boss 244

The reason for the fuel filter is that it could be partially plugged, restricting fuel flow at higher RPM's (that's what happened to me) I bought the new filter at the ford dealer. I don't know about the plugs being better, but mine were wasted after 30 thousand miles, probally because of bad gas. It's worth the 30 bucks or so to do it, then you know it's right. I also had 3 different tunes from different tuners. The six pack offer still stands. My times are from lots of work, no baloney, but I didn't get there untill I changes the filter and plugs along with mobil 1 and a PHP alt pulley.

nascar17

[sm=interesting.gif] Thanks for the imput. I'll give it a try on the fuel filter and plugs. On the dyno sheet, they must have gone from 13.5 to 11.2 on the AFR. It does read backwards after I really looked at it. Is this to rich. I have read that 12.7 or so is ultimate. I also have a set of 4:10 gears with traction lock to be installed. The car doesn't get driven long distances and I figured, since I'm only taching 2,400 RPMs at 80, It couldn't hurt much.

fitbikeco

14.76 tune exhaust cai street tires


just wat till you see what rygen has in store

[IMG]local://upfiles/32585/82E1BA5F00C24F97959EF311777419FD.jpg[/IMG]

rygenstormlocke

12.4@109MPH



320rwhp on a mustang dyno
371rwtq on a mustang dyno

Modificaiton list here:

* Powerhouse Pipeline Turbo @ 10.38lbs (Note: 12 second runs were on 8.5lbs of boost!)
* Powerhouse Lower Control Arms
* Powerhouse Upper Control Arm
* Powerhouse Drive Shaft
* Powerhouse/CHE Drive Shaft Loop
* Powerhouse/CHE Panhard Bar w/Poly/Poly
* Powerhouse/CHE Panhard Brace
* Powerhouse K Member Brace
* Dual Flowmaster American Thunder Mufflers
* SCT XCAL2
* AEM Wideband w/output to XCAL2 & Laptop
* Autometer Boos Gauge
* PHP Alternator Pulley
* Ford Racing 3.73 Gears
* Ford Racing TLOK
* LPW Girdle (stronger than the TA piece)
* Reflashed Stock Converter (percision is working on mine, have some fitment issues with the V6, should have it by Nov. 2006)
* M&H Drag Radials (for track)
* Nitto Extreme 450's 255/50/17 up front & 275/50/17 rear (for street)