turbo vs super
11-06-2008, 10:38 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 15
turbo vs super
Currently the only mod I have completed is my. Dual x pipes I have my 8.8" rear axle with t-lok and 3.73 gears, I really wanna drop a supercharger in it but of course going to do my reasearch...now this car is my daily driver, which one do you think is best for me a turbo or a supercharger?...what is the difference? What do I need to buy before getting it? And what would be my next step afterwards?...any help would be nice and links also help me on decisions and prices, thanks guys
11-06-2008, 10:40 AM
#2
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 88
Best bet if you dont know alot or dont wanna work on your car is to find a tuner shop with a kit. I think there is a place here in texas (HPP) that sells a really nice TT kit for your car. I would recommend turbo over supercharger for the V6, dont know why.
11-06-2008, 12:11 PM
#4
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 396
Turbo=more power
Supercharger=more affordable
If you don't have the extra $1k+ to spend on the turbo and would be fine with mustang gt + bolt-ons power than get the supercharger. If you want you're car to be as fast as it could be then get the turbocharger, but you will be paying a good bit more for it.
The only mod you are missing that is necessary on a forced induction car would be an aluminum driveshaft or some people suggest just stronger driveshaft safety loops. I would suggest the aluminum because it makes a big difference in the car's safety and many other aspects of the car(smooth acceleration, no shaking at highway speeds, quicker revving, little better mpg, etc).
Supercharger=more affordable
If you don't have the extra $1k+ to spend on the turbo and would be fine with mustang gt + bolt-ons power than get the supercharger. If you want you're car to be as fast as it could be then get the turbocharger, but you will be paying a good bit more for it.
The only mod you are missing that is necessary on a forced induction car would be an aluminum driveshaft or some people suggest just stronger driveshaft safety loops. I would suggest the aluminum because it makes a big difference in the car's safety and many other aspects of the car(smooth acceleration, no shaking at highway speeds, quicker revving, little better mpg, etc).
11-06-2008, 01:15 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 15
yea i already know about the aluminum drive shaft and that is something that will be purchased...since the turbo is the best way to get power should i be shopping for a twin turbo or is there one that y'all just knows kicks ***...and with the turbo what else do i need before getting it then what can i do after getting it? thanks
11-06-2008, 03:08 PM
#6
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 396
Do you have an automatic or a manual? Manuals aren't very strong like the automatics in our cars, so you may have problems with the manual. Hopefully fazm will see this and tell you about that. I could guess about the manual trans and would say beef it up or throw in a stronger one, but that is not cheap.
I wouldn't suggest a twin turbo because even though it will make a little better numbers than a well sized single, it's not worth the extra couple thousand over a single. PH411 I would say is the best turbo on the market do to it's good size (max psi at 2900rpm is great for low end and high end power), none know problems in any kit that has been put on a V6, reliability, and power/dollar. The other turbo kit I know of is the STS kit which has the turbo mounted in the rear of the car and doesn't make as great of numbers as the PH411 kit. The PH411 kit is also the one that rygen got his car into 10's with and buckman into the lowest 11's possible. Also the one that fazm is daily driving with no problems and has run low low 12's at the track with.
Other than the driveshaft, you technically need nothing but a gauge pillar with a boost/vacuum gauge and an air fuel ratio gauge is a good precaution so you can see everything is working fine. Those gauges bought and installed shouldn't run more than $400-$500. Rear lower control arms would help with wheel hop, so they would be useful(or get uca and antisquat brackets too so you have a well done rear suspension set-up). You could also get wider rims and tires so you wouldn't have a huge problem with traction when you push it. Other than that just have the turbo kit installed and tuned (or you can run the canned tune they give you which is safe, but a dyno tune is suggested).
If you want every last hp out of it, you could get a performance throttle body, performance shorty headers(the kit won't work with longtubes), and straight through mufflers(ex:magnaflows) or muffler deletes(ex
ypes kit or slp loudmouths). If you want the most power out of the turbo kit, I'd suggest forged internals so you could run higher psi safely.
If you're drag strip et hunting, you can do weight reduction things too.
I wouldn't suggest a twin turbo because even though it will make a little better numbers than a well sized single, it's not worth the extra couple thousand over a single. PH411 I would say is the best turbo on the market do to it's good size (max psi at 2900rpm is great for low end and high end power), none know problems in any kit that has been put on a V6, reliability, and power/dollar. The other turbo kit I know of is the STS kit which has the turbo mounted in the rear of the car and doesn't make as great of numbers as the PH411 kit. The PH411 kit is also the one that rygen got his car into 10's with and buckman into the lowest 11's possible. Also the one that fazm is daily driving with no problems and has run low low 12's at the track with.
Other than the driveshaft, you technically need nothing but a gauge pillar with a boost/vacuum gauge and an air fuel ratio gauge is a good precaution so you can see everything is working fine. Those gauges bought and installed shouldn't run more than $400-$500. Rear lower control arms would help with wheel hop, so they would be useful(or get uca and antisquat brackets too so you have a well done rear suspension set-up). You could also get wider rims and tires so you wouldn't have a huge problem with traction when you push it. Other than that just have the turbo kit installed and tuned (or you can run the canned tune they give you which is safe, but a dyno tune is suggested).
If you want every last hp out of it, you could get a performance throttle body, performance shorty headers(the kit won't work with longtubes), and straight through mufflers(ex:magnaflows) or muffler deletes(ex
ypes kit or slp loudmouths). If you want the most power out of the turbo kit, I'd suggest forged internals so you could run higher psi safely. If you're drag strip et hunting, you can do weight reduction things too.
11-06-2008, 03:24 PM
#7
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Acworth, GA
Posts: 12,260
Do you have an automatic or a manual? Manuals aren't very strong like the automatics in our cars, so you may have problems with the manual. Hopefully fazm will see this and tell you about that. I could guess about the manual trans and would say beef it up or throw in a stronger one, but that is not cheap.
I wouldn't suggest a twin turbo because even though it will make a little better numbers than a well sized single, it's not worth the extra couple thousand over a single. PH411 I would say is the best turbo on the market do to it's good size (max psi at 2900rpm is great for low end and high end power), none know problems in any kit that has been put on a V6, reliability, and power/dollar. The other turbo kit I know of is the STS kit which has the turbo mounted in the rear of the car and doesn't make as great of numbers as the PH411 kit. The PH411 kit is also the one that rygen got his car into 10's with and buckman into the lowest 11's possible. Also the one that fazm is daily driving with no problems and has run low low 12's at the track with.
Other than the driveshaft, you technically need nothing but a gauge pillar with a boost/vacuum gauge and an air fuel ratio gauge is a good precaution so you can see everything is working fine. Those gauges bought and installed shouldn't run more than $400-$500. Rear lower control arms would help with wheel hop, so they would be useful(or get uca and antisquat brackets too so you have a well done rear suspension set-up). You could also get wider rims and tires so you wouldn't have a huge problem with traction when you push it. Other than that just have the turbo kit installed and tuned (or you can run the canned tune they give you which is safe, but a dyno tune is suggested).
If you want every last hp out of it, you could get a performance throttle body, performance shorty headers(the kit won't work with longtubes), and straight through mufflers(ex:magnaflows) or muffler deletes(exypes kit or slp loudmouths). If you want the most power out of the turbo kit, I'd suggest forged internals so you could run higher psi safely.
If you're drag strip et hunting, you can do weight reduction things too.
I wouldn't suggest a twin turbo because even though it will make a little better numbers than a well sized single, it's not worth the extra couple thousand over a single. PH411 I would say is the best turbo on the market do to it's good size (max psi at 2900rpm is great for low end and high end power), none know problems in any kit that has been put on a V6, reliability, and power/dollar. The other turbo kit I know of is the STS kit which has the turbo mounted in the rear of the car and doesn't make as great of numbers as the PH411 kit. The PH411 kit is also the one that rygen got his car into 10's with and buckman into the lowest 11's possible. Also the one that fazm is daily driving with no problems and has run low low 12's at the track with.
Other than the driveshaft, you technically need nothing but a gauge pillar with a boost/vacuum gauge and an air fuel ratio gauge is a good precaution so you can see everything is working fine. Those gauges bought and installed shouldn't run more than $400-$500. Rear lower control arms would help with wheel hop, so they would be useful(or get uca and antisquat brackets too so you have a well done rear suspension set-up). You could also get wider rims and tires so you wouldn't have a huge problem with traction when you push it. Other than that just have the turbo kit installed and tuned (or you can run the canned tune they give you which is safe, but a dyno tune is suggested).
If you want every last hp out of it, you could get a performance throttle body, performance shorty headers(the kit won't work with longtubes), and straight through mufflers(ex:magnaflows) or muffler deletes(ex
ypes kit or slp loudmouths). If you want the most power out of the turbo kit, I'd suggest forged internals so you could run higher psi safely. If you're drag strip et hunting, you can do weight reduction things too.
+1 x10 lol. I would go Turbo if your looking for power but I heard that turbo isnt as reliable and nice to your engine as super. Idk though.
11-06-2008, 04:06 PM
#8
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Big Sky Country
Posts: 1,079
I can't say that the turbo is unreliable, but I can say that the X has proven to be VERY reliable thus far. Most people who broke something with the turbo were pushing things to the limit.
11-06-2008, 04:51 PM
#9
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Hawthorne, CA
Posts: 1,970
Turbo with 8psi making 300rwhp is easy on the engine than a super with 11psi making 300rwhp
But if the Turbo is making 11 and the super is 11 than the turbo with be untimately harder on the engine.......that is one way to look at it.
But if the Turbo is making 11 and the super is 11 than the turbo with be untimately harder on the engine.......that is one way to look at it.
11-06-2008, 07:56 PM
#10
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Acworth, GA
Posts: 12,260
Yea thats a good way to explain.