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Rear seat deletion advice

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Old 01-26-2013, 08:46 AM
  #11  
Juergen
 
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Originally Posted by baibbas
I got a rear seat deletion kit from Schrader:

http://www.rearseatdelete.com/mustangcoupe05.html

It's really nice and looks great put in, but the lower panels are a little flimsy and can't hold much weight in case I wanted to put something in the back like luggage or boxes. In my 2000 Mustang I used wood backing on my deletion kit to provide reinforcement, but in my 2011 kit it's ABS plastic. Is there some lightweight strong material I can use to reinforce the lower panels so I can put some weight on it? I know I could probably use wood again like pine or plywood but I was thinking something more durable like fiberglass or plastic I could cut with a dremel saw.

Thoughts?
I'd go with fiberglass, if there is enough of a gap (1/4 to 1/2 an inch) than fiberglass will give you
good strength, you can get a gallon @ homedepot, two packs of fiberglass mat, an extra tube of MEKP hardener (you'll need it, trust me),
4 brushes, for about 50-70 bucks, that should be enough

NOTE!! you dont want it to stick on the ABS, so make sure you
either get some mold release agent from West Marine (or other
boat stores, shouldnt be more than 10 bucks). Or, cheapo option, lay
down masking tape on the side you want to enforce, make it overlapping,
when you remove the fiberglass layer, there will be a sticky film left on the ABS, use 'goo gone' to wipe that away

lay 6 layers of fiberglassmat (i do 3 layers in one go), that will give
you about 1/4 to 3/8 inch, pretty strong, will not break from a suitcase
and doesn't flex much either

or, get also a 1/8"x1" steel strip that you laminate in between layer 3 and 4, but that will
be a tick heavier (note much, fiberglass is not light either)

i presume you want to enforce the underside, so when you lay that fiberglass part
in when done, put some tool box liner underneath it so it doesnt scratch your paint from vibration
while driving (or kitchen cabinet liner from walmart for 4 bucks)

stuff smells pretty strong for about a week, dont use it in the car, do it outside and let the finished fiberglass air out before you put it in the car

figure about 1 lbs per squarefoot of 1/8 inch thick fiberglass, so 2 lbs per sqf of 1/4 inch
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:49 AM
  #12  
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to clarify two things:

the sticky layer will be the glue from the painters tape, as the resin heats up and cures the glue on the tape transfers to whatever you attached it to

the walmart kitchen cabinet line > use the rubber like liner, not the pvc
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Old 01-27-2013, 06:47 AM
  #13  
baibbas
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Awesome, thank you I will look into that option!
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Old 01-27-2013, 06:51 AM
  #14  
baibbas
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What about a polycarbonate sheet cut to fit the backside of the kit?
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Old 01-27-2013, 06:28 PM
  #15  
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Went to Lowe's picked up three sheets of polycarbonate resin, the same material they make protective goggles out of...minimal cutting and mounted to the backs of the rear delete kit they will be PERFECT!!!
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:52 PM
  #16  
Matt's 95 Stang
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I was going to say why not use 1/4'' thick aluminum an a "X" brace and secure that to the bottom. It wont add that much weight and should be strong to hold up to about 20lbs.

Matthew
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Old 02-05-2013, 04:28 PM
  #17  
aerbourne
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Originally Posted by WesleyEng.com
Or maybe your females are too big.
I'm dying.

Baibbas, I found something for you.


I mean, it's a freaking muscle car. What do you expect the back seats to be? People whine about the space, but when it comes down to it, you're still carrying the people...something you couldn't do if you took the seats out. They can drive if it's that big of a deal. But they won't want to, because you've got the sexiest car out of everyone. Windows down, music up, and exhaust and I can't hear them anyway
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