2006 V6 Base Project plan
12-17-2014, 07:26 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Texas
Posts: 7
2006 V6 Base Project plan
I welcome input on my base "race" mild streeter build-up.
2006 Mustang Coupe V6 build sheet
Stage 1.
OEM hardware for control arms and Struts (Ford OEM) : Ford Dealership
GT Front Bumper from CL ad, FTW (250)
GT grill http://www.cervinis.com/05-09mustang...ith-horse.html http://www.dallasmustang.com/2005-20...-black-cdc.htm l(local) or
http://www.cjponyparts.com/classic-d...05-2009/p/G83/
8.8 Axle with 3.73 ratio take off : http://www.speedconcepts.net/product...roducts_id=831
Wheel Locks:
O2 Sensors : F R Tuner : SCT 5015 - SCT Livewire TS Programmer : http://www.jegs.com/i/SCT/946/5015/10002/-1
Stage 2.
Poly Rear diff Bushings: http://www.prothanesuspensionparts.c....asp?prod=6315
LT Performance Next Generation Cold Air Intake (05-09 V6) : http://www.americanmuscle.com/jlt-ne...ntV1&year=2006
GT 500/CS bumper cover : http://www.americanmuscle.com/gt500-...mper-0509.html
Kooks Long Headers : http://www.kooksheaders.com/exhaust-header-26890.html
Kooks Catted H pipe : http://www.kooksheaders.com/exhaust-...ipe-15574.html
SR Performance O2 Sensor Extension Kit - Pair (86-09 All) AM
Weld two straight pipes to a set of GT take-offs http://www.newtakeoff.com/mustang-8.aspx
Underdrive Pullys http://www.rpmoutlet.com/2005-2010-v...ive-pulley.htm
battery relocation Kit : http://www.cjponyparts.com/battery-r...5-2009/p/BRK4/
Fender http://www.jegs.com/i/Sherman+Parts/...5-31L/10002/-1
Black Condenser off Jegs http://www.jegs.com/i/Sherman+Parts/455/83362/10002/-1
Leather Seats : http://www.mpsautosalvage.com/sunsho..._detail&p=4623
http://www.mpsautosalvage.com/sunsho..._detail&p=4627
The chin Spoiler : http://www.cervinis.com/05-09mustang...n-spoiler.html
EBay Transmission (confirm VIN with CarFax) 750.00 http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-09-Ford-Mustang-GT-4-6-TREMEC-5-SPEED-TR-3650-33k-miles-2006-1316-/171421804446?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27e989279e&vxp=mtrShifter Bezel : http://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-dra...2009/p/MSBR14/
Shelby spoiler : http://accessories.ford.com/shelby-style-primed.html
Brake kit (front) : Brembo or Baer
Stage 3.
Transmission Swap:
Swap Kit : $585 total for the TR3650 5-Speed kit.
Also requires:
1.TR3650 850.00
AL05 06 07 08 09 10 FORD MUSTANG MANU TRANSMISSION 5 SPEED 4.6L 3V 470019
http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-06-07-08-09-10-FORD-MUSTANG-MANUAL-TRANSMISSION-5-SPEED-4-6L-3V-470019/121365168944?_trksid=p2054897.c100204.m3164&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140407115239%26meid%3D996ec80984424d698cf95d03238d3abd%26pid%3D100204%26prg%3D20140407115239%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D1114401490212. Clutch and pressure plate. : OEM Use yours (free) or Complete aftermarket Spec 11" clutch assembly with SFI approved 8 bolt billet steel flywheel.
3. Shifter & shift lever. GFW 229.00 (optional)
4. Driveshaft. D&D or Shaftmasters : http://shaftmasters.com/3aldrfomu20v4.html $549.99 with endofyear coupon!
5. O2 Weld in bungs. AM 20.00
Thoughts?
2006 Mustang Coupe V6 build sheet
Stage 1.
OEM hardware for control arms and Struts (Ford OEM) : Ford Dealership
GT Front Bumper from CL ad, FTW (250)
GT grill http://www.cervinis.com/05-09mustang...ith-horse.html http://www.dallasmustang.com/2005-20...-black-cdc.htm l(local) or
http://www.cjponyparts.com/classic-d...05-2009/p/G83/
8.8 Axle with 3.73 ratio take off : http://www.speedconcepts.net/product...roducts_id=831
Wheel Locks:
O2 Sensors : F R Tuner : SCT 5015 - SCT Livewire TS Programmer : http://www.jegs.com/i/SCT/946/5015/10002/-1
Stage 2.
Poly Rear diff Bushings: http://www.prothanesuspensionparts.c....asp?prod=6315
LT Performance Next Generation Cold Air Intake (05-09 V6) : http://www.americanmuscle.com/jlt-ne...ntV1&year=2006
GT 500/CS bumper cover : http://www.americanmuscle.com/gt500-...mper-0509.html
Kooks Long Headers : http://www.kooksheaders.com/exhaust-header-26890.html
Kooks Catted H pipe : http://www.kooksheaders.com/exhaust-...ipe-15574.html
SR Performance O2 Sensor Extension Kit - Pair (86-09 All) AM
Weld two straight pipes to a set of GT take-offs http://www.newtakeoff.com/mustang-8.aspx
Underdrive Pullys http://www.rpmoutlet.com/2005-2010-v...ive-pulley.htm
battery relocation Kit : http://www.cjponyparts.com/battery-r...5-2009/p/BRK4/
Fender http://www.jegs.com/i/Sherman+Parts/...5-31L/10002/-1
Black Condenser off Jegs http://www.jegs.com/i/Sherman+Parts/455/83362/10002/-1
Leather Seats : http://www.mpsautosalvage.com/sunsho..._detail&p=4623
http://www.mpsautosalvage.com/sunsho..._detail&p=4627
The chin Spoiler : http://www.cervinis.com/05-09mustang...n-spoiler.html
EBay Transmission (confirm VIN with CarFax) 750.00 http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-09-Ford-Mustang-GT-4-6-TREMEC-5-SPEED-TR-3650-33k-miles-2006-1316-/171421804446?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27e989279e&vxp=mtrShifter Bezel : http://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-dra...2009/p/MSBR14/
Shelby spoiler : http://accessories.ford.com/shelby-style-primed.html
Brake kit (front) : Brembo or Baer
Stage 3.
Transmission Swap:
Swap Kit : $585 total for the TR3650 5-Speed kit.
Also requires:
1.TR3650 850.00
AL05 06 07 08 09 10 FORD MUSTANG MANU TRANSMISSION 5 SPEED 4.6L 3V 470019
http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-06-07-08-09-10-FORD-MUSTANG-MANUAL-TRANSMISSION-5-SPEED-4-6L-3V-470019/121365168944?_trksid=p2054897.c100204.m3164&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140407115239%26meid%3D996ec80984424d698cf95d03238d3abd%26pid%3D100204%26prg%3D20140407115239%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D1114401490212. Clutch and pressure plate. : OEM Use yours (free) or Complete aftermarket Spec 11" clutch assembly with SFI approved 8 bolt billet steel flywheel.
3. Shifter & shift lever. GFW 229.00 (optional)
4. Driveshaft. D&D or Shaftmasters : http://shaftmasters.com/3aldrfomu20v4.html $549.99 with endofyear coupon!
5. O2 Weld in bungs. AM 20.00
Thoughts?
12-18-2014, 01:41 PM
#2
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: New York
Posts: 272
I'd go with better suspension and braking before exhausts and transmissions...
Why do you have a transmission in stage 2 and 3?
I'd also not bother with a GT bumper and just wait for the GT/CS. I'd also not bother with 'leather' seats. I love my red ones, but they aren't real leather and once they get beyond good condition (the guy that had my car until 80,000miles did nothing to look after them, so they weren't good condition at all), they're pretty useless.
The way I see it with my 4.0 is that the motor doesn't have much potential without spending enough to basically put in a breathed on 4.6 instead. So I'd rather concentrate on handling and power delivery rather than trying to up the hp with bolt ons.
The 8.8 I agree with though, I want an LSD in mine and would rather build up something good than put an LSD into the crappy 7.5. Also a driveshaft.
My clutch was on its way out, so got it replaced yesterday, and it made the world of difference already. Just stock, but none of the driveline will work with a V8, so I'm not too concerned about it handling lots of power.
Why do you have a transmission in stage 2 and 3?
I'd also not bother with a GT bumper and just wait for the GT/CS. I'd also not bother with 'leather' seats. I love my red ones, but they aren't real leather and once they get beyond good condition (the guy that had my car until 80,000miles did nothing to look after them, so they weren't good condition at all), they're pretty useless.
The way I see it with my 4.0 is that the motor doesn't have much potential without spending enough to basically put in a breathed on 4.6 instead. So I'd rather concentrate on handling and power delivery rather than trying to up the hp with bolt ons.
The 8.8 I agree with though, I want an LSD in mine and would rather build up something good than put an LSD into the crappy 7.5. Also a driveshaft.
My clutch was on its way out, so got it replaced yesterday, and it made the world of difference already. Just stock, but none of the driveline will work with a V8, so I'm not too concerned about it handling lots of power.
12-19-2014, 01:55 PM
#3
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Texas
Posts: 7
Good comments
I'd go with better suspension and braking before exhausts and transmissions...
Why do you have a transmission in stage 2 and 3?
I'd also not bother with a GT bumper and just wait for the GT/CS. I'd also not bother with 'leather' seats. I love my red ones, but they aren't real leather and once they get beyond good condition (the guy that had my car until 80,000miles did nothing to look after them, so they weren't good condition at all), they're pretty useless.
The way I see it with my 4.0 is that the motor doesn't have much potential without spending enough to basically put in a breathed on 4.6 instead. So I'd rather concentrate on handling and power delivery rather than trying to up the hp with bolt ons.
The 8.8 I agree with though, I want an LSD in mine and would rather build up something good than put an LSD into the crappy 7.5. Also a driveshaft.
My clutch was on its way out, so got it replaced yesterday, and it made the world of difference already. Just stock, but none of the driveline will work with a V8, so I'm not too concerned about it handling lots of power.
Why do you have a transmission in stage 2 and 3?
I'd also not bother with a GT bumper and just wait for the GT/CS. I'd also not bother with 'leather' seats. I love my red ones, but they aren't real leather and once they get beyond good condition (the guy that had my car until 80,000miles did nothing to look after them, so they weren't good condition at all), they're pretty useless.
The way I see it with my 4.0 is that the motor doesn't have much potential without spending enough to basically put in a breathed on 4.6 instead. So I'd rather concentrate on handling and power delivery rather than trying to up the hp with bolt ons.
The 8.8 I agree with though, I want an LSD in mine and would rather build up something good than put an LSD into the crappy 7.5. Also a driveshaft.
My clutch was on its way out, so got it replaced yesterday, and it made the world of difference already. Just stock, but none of the driveline will work with a V8, so I'm not too concerned about it handling lots of power.
The brakes are a toughie. Wildwoods and Baers are so expensive! The Ford Racing bracket and big rotor kit is not really and upgrade other than leverage and surface area.
Swaps? Not sure here...ugh.
I agree on the seats...extravagance.
01-26-2015, 07:18 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Texas
Posts: 7
Well...that's a bit $$$ for my tastes
A,I don't like the newer body style...looks Camaro.
B. The V6 base mustang is Iron Block. forged rods and 300 Lbs lighter.
C. This car is paid for...I can afford mods.
D. I like to build cars not buy them.
B. The V6 base mustang is Iron Block. forged rods and 300 Lbs lighter.
C. This car is paid for...I can afford mods.
D. I like to build cars not buy them.
01-27-2015, 04:43 AM
#6
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: HI
Posts: 14
Didn't realize there were so many people with their panties in a bunch over v6 owners until I started googling mustang mods.
GL with your project.
02-02-2015, 12:08 PM
#8
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Texas
Posts: 7
Maybe a bit more...HP wise
3" Catalytic Converter GE-90140
STI Aftermarket intercooler https://webstore.spalusa.com/content...2058_SPEC.pdfd
Treadstone Performance T4 Heat Shield (Stealth Black)
> http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/...de=DD-PAC-2750
Dakota Digital PAC-2750 Cooling Fan Controller
From <http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_C ode=DD-PAC-2750>
I'm thinking 347rw/ 430tq. But this stage is still in development mode. Plumbing without a tube K-member is tight!
Turbo:
Forced Performance in-line oil filter 5 micron
STI style blow-off valve (adjustable)http://www.theboostlab.com/store/pro...bocharger.html
http://www.diablosport.com/products/mafia.html#home
Ducting wall and rubber seals for intercooler top
Sandwich style Oil diverter
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-25-4-x-6-Turbo-Barrel-Water-Liquid-to-Air-Intercooler-Aluminum/251647815825?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D28795%26meid%3Db84f6f25144046619fe3bcbaffce7c18%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D350892337470&rt=nc10 row Oil Cooler 10AN
http://www.jegs.com/i/Snow-Performan...20001/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/Thermo+Tec/893/15003/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/Roush+Performa...80-BA/10002/-1
10AN Steel braided oil lines and T for turbo feed
Turbo oil feed line kit and drain to pan fittings
Turbo smart Eboost2 Boost controller (Optional)
Innovative Electronics Air/Fuel ratio and Turbo Timer gauge and wide-band sensor Kit (Optional)
Boost gauge (required)
Fab turbo exhaust for upstream and downstream to duals (Need design and fabricator)
Jet Hot Coat down-pipe and collector
Silicon hose connectors and V band clamps
Turbo hot side blanket
02-06-2015, 11:13 PM
#9
5th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 2,388
Hope you didn't order all this stuff.
First of all, I assume you are staying with the V6. Nothing wrong with that.
If that is not the plan, then you're more on track with appropriate mods.
But the ONLY way you'll get anything near 300hp is with forced induction (turbo or supercharger). I've had bolt-on mods, supercharger, and turbo; and a turbo is the way to get the most out of the engine. (For a LOT of experience with the 4.0, see mustangcollective.com).
The 8.8 rear end is a good choice IF you plan on adding f/i AND if you intend to drag race.
Stick with OEM/Ford O2 sensors ONLY!!! Other brands just cause problems. The only exception is for a wideband sensor from Bosch, used only with a wideband gauge.
A 3" exhaust will kill low-end torque; stick to 2.5" exhaust at the largest.
For transmission, to use a 3650 with the 4.0, you'll need an adapter place (again, refer to mustangcollective.com). I use a TR6060 in my 4.0 with the adapter plate. This is needed because the bellhousings for the 4.0's are smaller than the V8's, and the plate adapts the bellhousing to the proper size for the 4.0 block.
You'll need a driveshaft change, too, as the T5 and 3650 lengths are different.
All the other cosmetic things should swap right over.
Overall, the 4.0 engine is a good stout engine, but the valve springs are a little weak at high rpms (especially with boost), and you can't really push the block past about 425-450 hp (and that is with using a turbocharger; you can't get there any other way).
Good luck!
First of all, I assume you are staying with the V6. Nothing wrong with that.
If that is not the plan, then you're more on track with appropriate mods.
But the ONLY way you'll get anything near 300hp is with forced induction (turbo or supercharger). I've had bolt-on mods, supercharger, and turbo; and a turbo is the way to get the most out of the engine. (For a LOT of experience with the 4.0, see mustangcollective.com).
The 8.8 rear end is a good choice IF you plan on adding f/i AND if you intend to drag race.
Stick with OEM/Ford O2 sensors ONLY!!! Other brands just cause problems. The only exception is for a wideband sensor from Bosch, used only with a wideband gauge.
A 3" exhaust will kill low-end torque; stick to 2.5" exhaust at the largest.
For transmission, to use a 3650 with the 4.0, you'll need an adapter place (again, refer to mustangcollective.com). I use a TR6060 in my 4.0 with the adapter plate. This is needed because the bellhousings for the 4.0's are smaller than the V8's, and the plate adapts the bellhousing to the proper size for the 4.0 block.
You'll need a driveshaft change, too, as the T5 and 3650 lengths are different.
All the other cosmetic things should swap right over.
Overall, the 4.0 engine is a good stout engine, but the valve springs are a little weak at high rpms (especially with boost), and you can't really push the block past about 425-450 hp (and that is with using a turbocharger; you can't get there any other way).
Good luck!
02-08-2015, 07:40 PM
#10
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Texas
Posts: 7
Hope you didn't order all this stuff.
First of all, I assume you are staying with the V6. Nothing wrong with that.
If that is not the plan, then you're more on track with appropriate mods.
But the ONLY way you'll get anything near 300hp is with forced induction (turbo or supercharger). I've had bolt-on mods, supercharger, and turbo; and a turbo is the way to get the most out of the engine. (For a LOT of experience with the 4.0, see mustangcollective.com).
The 8.8 rear end is a good choice IF you plan on adding f/i AND if you intend to drag race.
Stick with OEM/Ford O2 sensors ONLY!!! Other brands just cause problems. The only exception is for a wideband sensor from Bosch, used only with a wideband gauge.
A 3" exhaust will kill low-end torque; stick to 2.5" exhaust at the largest.
For transmission, to use a 3650 with the 4.0, you'll need an adapter place (again, refer to mustangcollective.com). I use a TR6060 in my 4.0 with the adapter plate. This is needed because the bellhousings for the 4.0's are smaller than the V8's, and the plate adapts the bellhousing to the proper size for the 4.0 block.
You'll need a driveshaft change, too, as the T5 and 3650 lengths are different.
All the other cosmetic things should swap right over.
Overall, the 4.0 engine is a good stout engine, but the valve springs are a little weak at high rpms (especially with boost), and you can't really push the block past about 425-450 hp (and that is with using a turbocharger; you can't get there any other way).
Good luck!
First of all, I assume you are staying with the V6. Nothing wrong with that.
If that is not the plan, then you're more on track with appropriate mods.
But the ONLY way you'll get anything near 300hp is with forced induction (turbo or supercharger). I've had bolt-on mods, supercharger, and turbo; and a turbo is the way to get the most out of the engine. (For a LOT of experience with the 4.0, see mustangcollective.com).
The 8.8 rear end is a good choice IF you plan on adding f/i AND if you intend to drag race.
Stick with OEM/Ford O2 sensors ONLY!!! Other brands just cause problems. The only exception is for a wideband sensor from Bosch, used only with a wideband gauge.
A 3" exhaust will kill low-end torque; stick to 2.5" exhaust at the largest.
For transmission, to use a 3650 with the 4.0, you'll need an adapter place (again, refer to mustangcollective.com). I use a TR6060 in my 4.0 with the adapter plate. This is needed because the bellhousings for the 4.0's are smaller than the V8's, and the plate adapts the bellhousing to the proper size for the 4.0 block.
You'll need a driveshaft change, too, as the T5 and 3650 lengths are different.
All the other cosmetic things should swap right over.
Overall, the 4.0 engine is a good stout engine, but the valve springs are a little weak at high rpms (especially with boost), and you can't really push the block past about 425-450 hp (and that is with using a turbocharger; you can't get there any other way).
Good luck!
Here'd the turbo :
Borg Warner EFR 7064 Turbo
Actuator Boost Level - Medium = 11-20 PSI (Included on WG EFRs) | $0.00
Hardware Kit - Vband Clamp + Flange, Water Fitting & Drain Fitting | $85.00
Turbine Housing - 0.83 A/R T3 undivided (Internal WG) (P/N 179355) | $53.96
Wheel Speed Sensor - Speed Sensor Kit | $156.00
$1,949.65 (I know expensive tastes...includes all that's needed though)
TR3650 has been purchased, Roush GT drive shaft (strong) and used 6k 8.8 with 3.55 gears scheduled for install in the next few weeks. BBK fuel pump (in-tank) installed. Upgrading axles to Roush moly's...hope the 3.55's will low enough for the 3650. Nice Pony is sending a kit for the swap. MAC 2.5" duals installed and will nix the 3" pipe back from the turbo for a 2.5 to dual split as suggested. Head bolts need to be ARP or ok?
Questions:
Nissan Valve springs....which weight? Link would be awesome
Downpipe and side? pass or driver? issues?
Reverse the aftermarket headers for manifold (shorties) and plump accordingly or reverse pipe to Y bend and plumb forward?
39 lb injectors enough? This is a Cologne 2008 V6. I've seen as high as 50lb used...confused. 3 core aluminum radiator, BMR rad support and BMR K member poised for the swap.
Revised list:
Return line conversion and Adjustable pressure regulator (Aeroquip) (order)
3" Catalytic Converter GE-90140
Aftermarket intercooler https://webstore.spalusa.com/content...2058_SPEC.pdfd
Treadstone Performance T4 Heat Shield (Stealth Black)
Dakota Digital PAC-2750 Cooling Fan Controller
From <http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_C ode=DD-PAC-2750>
Forced Performance in-line oil filter 5 micron
STI style blow-off valve (adjustable)http://www.theboostlab.com/store/pro...bocharger.html
http://www.diablosport.com/products/mafia.html#home
Ducting wall and rubber seals for intercooler top
Sandwich style Oil diverter
10 row Oil Cooler 10AN
http://www.jegs.com/i/Snow-Performan...20001/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/Thermo+Tec/893/15003/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/Roush+Performa...80-BA/10002/-1
Borg Warner EFR 7064 Turbo Actuator Boost Level - Medium = 11-20 PSI (Included on WG EFRs) | $0.00 1 $1,949.65
Hardware Kit - Vband Clamp + Flange, Water Fitting & Drain Fitting | $85.00
Turbine Housing - 0.83 A/R T3 undivided (Internal WG) (P/N 179355) | $53.96
Wheel Speed Sensor - Speed Sensor Kit | $156.00
10AN Steel braided oil lines and T for turbo feed
Turbo oil feed line kit and drain to pan fittings
Turbo smart Eboost2 Boost controller (Optional)
Innovative Electronics Air/Fuel ratio and Turbo Timer gauge and wide-band sensor Kit (Optional)
Boost gauge (required)
Fab turbo exhaust for upstream and downstream to duals (Need design and fabricator)
Jet Hot Coat down-pipe and collector
Silicon hose connectors and V band clamps
Turbo hot side blanket
Driveshaft safety loop (order)
Dyno Tune
GFW Short Shifter (order)
Thanks,
David