Kmac191

Hey Everyone,

I've read a ton of posts, articles and watched countless hours of videos on the 2005-2009 v6 4.0 mustang. I wanted to put an end to what maxing out your v6 mustang will look like after all of the power adding and practical mods look like. I don't claim to be a guru but I have the ***** to spend the money and find the right people to work on my mustang.(2007 4.0 v6)

Before I get into my current set up I wanted to explain that I have currently invested $25000 in my mustang between paint, audio and mechanical upgrades. Just a few days ago I pre paid another $30000 to take my mustang to the next level. just to make it clear I have dyno sheets and an appraisal to outline everything I've done with a level of proof.

Here's what my mustang currently has:

Trans: 5 speed manual
Rear axle: Ford Racing limited slip 7.5" 3.73 gears, BMR Lower Control Arms & Polyurethane Bushings
Engine: Procharger Polished Stage II (10psi) Supercharger, Procharger Stage II Innercooler Kit(3 core), BBK 70mm Throttle Body & Bosch (36lbs) Fuel Injectors, BBK Shortie Headers & Magnaflow Dual Cat Back Exhaust System, NGK TR6 Supercharger Spark Plugs, Hand-Fabricated Flywheel & Spec Stage 3 Clutch Assembly
Exterior: Custom Green Metallic Paint & GT Black Vinyl Stripes, Billet Phantom Front Grill & Low Grill, 18” FRD 7 Split Spoke Black Aluminum Wheels, General E-MAX 255/45/18 Radial Tires
Interior: Custom Shifter **** & Chrome Bezel, Aftermarket Tri-Pack Gauges (Air/Fuel) (Pryro) (Boost) , Kenwood 5” Touch Screen Headunit with AMP & SUB

After all these mods were in place I have been running 6 psi of boost in my supercharger. I also had my car dyno tuned specifically to all my mods for 91 octane fuel. this all produced: 302 RWHP with 298 FT-Lb's of torque. Obviously I could have gained more hp with the 94 octane tune but overall I was pretty unsatisfied with my cars overall output. Finally I decided to spend the money to fully take my car to the next level.

I decided that I'm going to go ***** out drop in the super six motor sports forged short block and internals as well as cams and cylinder heads.
http://www.supersixmotorsports.com/_...dInternals.pdf

http://www.supersixmotorsports.com/_...1HeadsCams.pdf

In addition I will be adding an aluminum solid driveshaft, deleting the catalytic converter, bump steer kit, sway bars, front upper and lower control arms and jumping into the 94 octane Dyno tune.

All of this new work is in the preliminary stages and I'm letting my mechanic order all the parts and start building the new engine, hopefully in three months I can update everyone with the new numbers, some engine pictures and outline specifically what parts were used. I'm pretty sure I've basically maxed out my mustang as far as hp adders go, for my set up. however I am still new to the mustang world, and performance cars in general so hopefully I can hear back what everyone thinks about this hugely expensive set-up.
I hope this helps fellow v6er's see what their future looks like if they decide to head down this route.

cheers,

kyle

Stangbass

Are you saying you spent $25k ON TOP of the price of the car?

Good luck with the build and much respect, but I don't know how on earth you manged to spend that amount of money on the mods you listed. I know parts are a bit steeper up north but geez, your mechanic must be charging you lawyer rates.

What are your goals with the car? At 6lbs of boost you weren't even close to maxing out the stock internals of the engine. These engines will support north of 400hp with the right tune and enough octane.

Once again good luck, and I'm looking forward to seeing your progress.

Kmac191

Yes, 25k on top of the sale price which I got for a steal that's why I took this road in the first place. But let me explain 25K for 1.) That custom metallic green paint, car was originally grabber orange. plus gt stripe install. 2.) Those new 18" FRD Rims and Tires 3.) the sound system which includes the new Kenwood deck four new speakers, one subwoofer and a 5 channel amplifier 4.) All the mechanical mods listed above installed with a dyno tune, also includes the exchange rate from Canadian to U.S dollars for the parts which was the majority of them. 5.) not cheap lol.

I just want to see how far I can push the V6 and maybe try out some autocross in the summer. You're right about the boost but it was explained to me like this( by a guy whos been pumping out mustangs between 400-1800 rwhp for the last 25 years, my mechanic) with my current set up, the fuel being 91 octane and everything working in unison and synchronism he suggested that I run 6 psi otherwise it could be detrimental to my supercharger and engine, and this was with numerous dyno runs and testing. this year ill be able to run a lot more boost.

cheers

Norm Peterson

For autocross, rear LCAs with a spherical or rod end at one end of each will be better-behaved than the more common poly/poly LCAs, and they don't sacrifice straight line performance to get it.

For your stabilizer bars, get adjustables for both. Best bar settings with most aftermarket springs won't be the same as they would be for OE springs, and you might want a little less understeer than OE anyway.

Do you mean front lower and rear upper? Firming up the rear upper tends to increase NVH inside the cabin, and I'm thinking of your sound system here. A bumpsteer kit may or may not gain you anything, depends more on if you're lowered (if so, how much) and whether you find yourself sawing back and forth with the steering wheel to stay on line through a corner with just enough smooth unevenness to make the suspension move.

Again for autocross, you'll want the ability to run a tune that has relatively mild tip-in response. When you're almost always never going dead straight ahead you need easy throttle modulation to stay on the edge of tire grip more than you need instant power and blow clear through what your tires can hold (big oversteer and spinning may look exciting, but it's slow).

I can't find anything on General's E-max tires.


Norm

Kmac191

Thanks norm for the information if I do end up doing
More auto cross I will definitely pursue some of your recommendations

movielover40

Hate to see someone put so much money into an older car.

I did that once and got burned when I went to sell it.

Kmac191

Everyone has different opinions and ambitions, I'm not selling this car ever, already made that desicion

Stangbass

I know for sure the PS1C1 is efficient well past 6lbs, and a healthy 4.0L will support more boost than that. My guess is, either you car was getting hot and pulling timing, Or you had some weak octane in the tank and it was detonating, which is why he probably didn't want to go past 6lbs.

With the type of power you are trying to achieve. Pretty much everything behind your engine(drive train wise) is going to need to be replaced especially if you are going to be doing any racing with sticky tires. The T50D transmission will grenade at those power levels, as well as that 7.5" rear end.

There is a bellhousing adapter that will allow you to run a TR3650,TR6060, and I believe(but not sure) a T56. You can find info at Actionadaption.com.

You can find 8.8 s197 rear ends relatively easily and for not that much coin. You would also need a GT driveshaft, if you do the transmission swap

If you are going to go through the trouble of deleting the cats, you might as well go with long tubes.

Unless you seriously change geometries on your front suspension you probably don't need a bumpsteer kit.

You may also want to consider getting enough injector to run an E85 tune if it's available up there. Meth injection would be another good option.

I'd also make sure you keep your stock throttle body. Road course/autocross type driving and that BBK did not get along well on my car. My car would spontaneously go LIMP at the track. Never did it anywhere else, even at the drag strip. Tried to tune it out, but eventually just went back to the stock TB. Couldn't be happier.

Kmac191

Thanks for the input stangbass, yeah I don't know the specifics of why he kept the boost down to 6lbs but I trust him. with the new block cams and heads and the higher octane fuel I'm sure ill be running more this year.

I'm glad you have some first hand experience with this I'm all ears to someone who has dealt with stuff like this first hand because I haven't. Ill bring forward everything you recommended to me to my mechanic. I want to do this build right the first time and I'm willing to pay a little extra now rather than a lot later. The 8.8 spline is a good idea, I also checked out that link you posted for action adaption it looks like id be scrapping my rear end for a 4.10 with that transmission adaptor. I'm also pretty sure he said he putting in a gt solid aluminum driveshaft, he said he's done it before so that's good.

I'm not sure what you mean by that tune is that pre done tune file? My mechanic has been tuning my car based on the parts, fuel etc. I'm sure you know but ill also ask about that tune file and injection.

cheers