Wheel/tire shakes bad when turning hard left PLEASE HELP!
#1
Wheel/tire shakes bad when turning hard left PLEASE HELP!
Just joined the forums and need some help
2005 v6 base. I get a real bad shake in the front end and hear a fast/loud stutter/clunking noise from the front end when taking a left turn at 50+ mph (only on left turns, turning right is fine). It only does this when I turn too hard and it shakes the steering wheel pretty good but if its a slight turn it wont happen. I cant tell if its the left or right wheel that does this. I replaced the outer tie rods (and alignment) since they looked pretty warn and it stopped for awhile but now its back to doing the same thing. I've checked the tie rods and they look fine and have no play.
I jacked the car up and have play side to side on both wheels and can hear a clicking/clunking noise but not sure where its coming from, no play at all when shaking at 12 and 6 o'clock. It seems like the whole knuckle, strut, outer/inner tie rods move with the wheel when shaking at 3 and 9 o'clock. I've looked at control arm bushings, sway bar end links, ball joints and the bushings seem to be okay, they look old but cant feel or see any play when trying to move those parts. The only place I see movement is where the inner tie rod meets the steering rack
I also have a steering wheel shake when driving on the highway but I'm guessing my tires need to be balanced.
If anyone has had this issue or might know a fix to this problem I would be glad to hear it. I don't know what else to look at and I don't want to just start throwing new parts on if that's not the problem.
2005 v6 base. I get a real bad shake in the front end and hear a fast/loud stutter/clunking noise from the front end when taking a left turn at 50+ mph (only on left turns, turning right is fine). It only does this when I turn too hard and it shakes the steering wheel pretty good but if its a slight turn it wont happen. I cant tell if its the left or right wheel that does this. I replaced the outer tie rods (and alignment) since they looked pretty warn and it stopped for awhile but now its back to doing the same thing. I've checked the tie rods and they look fine and have no play.
I jacked the car up and have play side to side on both wheels and can hear a clicking/clunking noise but not sure where its coming from, no play at all when shaking at 12 and 6 o'clock. It seems like the whole knuckle, strut, outer/inner tie rods move with the wheel when shaking at 3 and 9 o'clock. I've looked at control arm bushings, sway bar end links, ball joints and the bushings seem to be okay, they look old but cant feel or see any play when trying to move those parts. The only place I see movement is where the inner tie rod meets the steering rack
I also have a steering wheel shake when driving on the highway but I'm guessing my tires need to be balanced.
If anyone has had this issue or might know a fix to this problem I would be glad to hear it. I don't know what else to look at and I don't want to just start throwing new parts on if that's not the problem.
#3
Thanks I'll take a closer look at the ball joints when I get home.
If ball joints are bad would I be able to feel play when car is jacked up and shaking from top to bottom (12 & 6 o'clock)?
it feels very tight from top to bottom but side to side has quite a bit of play
thanks again
If ball joints are bad would I be able to feel play when car is jacked up and shaking from top to bottom (12 & 6 o'clock)?
it feels very tight from top to bottom but side to side has quite a bit of play
thanks again
#4
Ball joint would have 12/6 o'clock movement. Left right (9 and 3) is usually tie rod. Could be inner tie rods are shot and or lower control arm bushing are really shot.
I had a similar issue when making wide right sweepig turns, outer wheel (drivers wheel) would shudder.
The bushings on my control arms were hosed. Ball joints were fine, tie rods were fine.
Regardless it's easier to buy the control arm with the ball joint than trying to replace just the bushings or ball joint. Control arms.
I had a similar issue when making wide right sweepig turns, outer wheel (drivers wheel) would shudder.
The bushings on my control arms were hosed. Ball joints were fine, tie rods were fine.
Regardless it's easier to buy the control arm with the ball joint than trying to replace just the bushings or ball joint. Control arms.
#5
Ball joint would have 12/6 o'clock movement. Left right (9 and 3) is usually tie rod. Could be inner tie rods are shot and or lower control arm bushing are really shot.
I had a similar issue when making wide right sweepig turns, outer wheel (drivers wheel) would shudder.
The bushings on my control arms were hosed. Ball joints were fine, tie rods were fine.
Regardless it's easier to buy the control arm with the ball joint than trying to replace just the bushings or ball joint. Control arms.
I had a similar issue when making wide right sweepig turns, outer wheel (drivers wheel) would shudder.
The bushings on my control arms were hosed. Ball joints were fine, tie rods were fine.
Regardless it's easier to buy the control arm with the ball joint than trying to replace just the bushings or ball joint. Control arms.
Has anyone ever bought parts like these off of EBay? I found a pair of new control arms from A-1 auto on eBay for $100. It says it's a direct replacement part and on the reviews people say it fit perfect and worked great on their 2005 mustang. Just wondering because at o'rielly auto parts they are $140 each.
Thanks
#6
hey thanks a lot. I'll probably go that route and get new control arms for both sides with the new ball joints/bushings.
Has anyone ever bought parts like these off of EBay? I found a pair of new control arms from A-1 auto on eBay for $100. It says it's a direct replacement part and on the reviews people say it fit perfect and worked great on their 2005 mustang. Just wondering because at o'rielly auto parts they are $140 each.
Thanks
Has anyone ever bought parts like these off of EBay? I found a pair of new control arms from A-1 auto on eBay for $100. It says it's a direct replacement part and on the reviews people say it fit perfect and worked great on their 2005 mustang. Just wondering because at o'rielly auto parts they are $140 each.
Thanks
That being said, I have bought suspension components from A1 Auto for a Nissan Sentra. The parts themselves fit fine but you can tell they skimp where i feel it matters most. The bushing rubber is definitely of the lower quality variety and is not custom made for the applications. Example, stabilizer link bushings for the Nissan. OEM bushings are cylindrical with sides that are molded to bulge a bit out (like a flattened circle) so that the bushings properly fit and seat in the control arms. Also, the washers fit the contour of the top and bottom of the bushing.
The A1 auto bushings were just cylindrical in shape and the washers were flat. Not only did this make it difficult to seat the bushings in the arm but, when tightened, it deformed the stabilizer link bushings as they pushed out from under the flat washer. I suspect I'll have to replace them in a year or two.
I would not waste time or money on going too cheap with the control arms. If you don't plan on keeping the car, sure, go ahead. If you do plan on keeping it though, you might want to save up and get the right replacement. Reviews are usually initial impressions of a product, almost no-one gives a long term durability review. It may fit but does it last?
Last edited by Derf00; 03-17-2017 at 01:45 PM.