jhogan2424

I am looking for whatever performance parts I can find at a good price for a 95 GT. The only thing I have is a K&N. I need everything. Throttle body, injectors, MAS, nitrous, cam, shift kit, stall, gears(3.55)... Is there a wet nitrous plate system made? I hear the dry systems are unreliable. I would like to buy anything that might do me good.

horatio102

I went to high school with a Jason Hogan in Olympia, class of '95. Is that you by any chance?
Looks like you're going to spend a fair amount on the engine. Biggest single gain can be found through a set of aftermarket heads - AFR 165 are the best right now.

jhogan2424

Actualy, I'm live close to Memphis, TN and I graduated in 97. Thanks for the input on the heads. Are they a direct replacement for my stock heads? Are they very hard to install? Do I need to get a different intake to go along with the heads?

horatio102

Ah. The Jason I know went into the air force I think, so he could be living anywhere.

Anyway, the AFR heads are a direct replacement. You don't have to buy a new intake, but you're going to have to take it off (and replace the gasket) to install the heads. Same thing goes for the exhaust.

Using the stock camshaft, Carcraft picked up 100hp on an engine dyno by switching to AFR 165 heads, 1.7:1 roller rockers, aftermarket intake manifold (don't remember anymore which one) and a decent carb. Oh, they also had headers hooked up. I'm not saying that you'll get identical results, especially if you're sticking with the fuel injection (without tuning). But they're the best heads for street duty right now.

The stock fuel injectors max out at 320 horsepower. They can't deliver enough fuel to generate any more than that.

If you're going to replace the upper/lower intake manifold, I'd recommend the Professional Products Power Plus manifold. Apparently it's supposed to be pretty good. It's what I've got in mine. I think for the money it can't be beat. There are probably better intakes available, but at nearly twice the cost.

As far as exhaust goes, I'm a firm believer in shorty equal length headers for street cars. There are too many speed bumps and driveway humps in this area that would destroy a set of long tubes for me to think about putting them on my car. Other people swear by them, but not me. Headers will run you hundreds of dollars whereas you can get a decent H pipe for a hair over a hundred. Which one would you rather replace?

Those AFR heads will run you about $1200, plus another $400 for the intake, plus whatever for the headers and all the gaskets and whatnot. I personally would save up and do those all at once since doing them seperately would create redundant work and expense. After that you can piece together the rest of the intake (70mm throttle body is recommended for that intake, as is 70mm EGR spacer), CAI, new MAF calibrated for whatever injectors you use (Get the MAF and injectors installed together). When you bump up the injectors you might want to get an adjustible fuel pressure regulator - stock injectors work best at about 38psi iirc, 24 lb injectors at closer to 41psi iirc, 30 at 43, the injectors should have a manual or instructions or something telling you what pressure to run).
You can also piece the rest of the exhaust together later - once the headers are in you can either replace the stock H pipe with an aftermarket one, or get a cat-back and swap that on. It really doesn't matter what order you go in there.



You can actually do it in any order you want, but I highly recommend getting the heads done first (with the intake and headers). If you slap a larger throttle body, MAF, injectors, etc. on the stock motor you're just going to make it run worse. The heads are the biggest restriction. Get the engine breathing better before you try to cram more fuel and air into it.

jeep45238

Get an X pipe, not an H pipe. Mucho more horses to be had.

Long tube equal length headers are the key in the power-making area when it comes to headers.

Remember, don't focus on backpressure (or a lack there-of), but focus on EXHAUST VELOCITY for max power and torque.

Something else to think of: an aluminum driveshaft.

Wet nitrous rocks. Dry is iffy in my eyes because it relies on the stock fuel system to provide the extra fuel. One little lock up in one injector and it's over. A wet system supplies the additional gasoline along with the nitrous oxide to the motor, much more reliable and just as safe. Just requires an hour or two more install time.

horatio102

See? I told you others would disagree about the shorty headers. When Jeep gets a mustang, throws some long tubes on it, and smashes them on a speed bump, then we'll see if he changes his tune.

I'm sticking with the shorties for a street car. For an all out drag car, sure, get the long tubes. But if you're going that route, drop the fuel injection, get some serious heads (AFR 205 or 225 or whatever they are), a forged stroker rebuild, and get as lumpy of a cam that you can use with that auto.

But from the daily driver aspect you're not going to miss the couple of horsepower that you're giving up with the shorties and you'll thank me the first time you flatten an H (or X) pipe. I went with an H pipe because it was cheap - aluminized MAC H pipe was somewhere around $120. X pipes cost a fair bit more and gain a few horsepower. And since it's just about the lowest thing hanging under the car it's going to be the first thing to get smashed.

He's right about the N2O. Get a wet kit. They cost more, but they're much better.


Don't bother trying to remove or block off the EGR - the computer expects it to be there and you may experience poor part-throttle operation. It doesn't affect your performance because it gets shut off at idle and under high load anyway.