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This rusty spot was one that I had forgotten about. It's the bottom of the drivers side rocker panel. I'll have to scour the internet for the best way to repair this rust. Since this inner rocker's rear cap is also rusted out, it's likely that I'll be replacing this entire rocker panel.
Drivers side trunk dropoff, lower wheel well and quarter panel patch are all on the list for future repair.
Another view of the rust in rear of the drivers inner rocker.
This is rust at the rear of the drivers inner rocker panel. This may indicate that the entire inner rocker, critical to the 65 convertible, needs to be replaced.
Rust hole in the passengers quarter panel. Small, but it is probably evidence of even more rust below.
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You can see how the steering shaft is putting tension on the bottom left side of the column grommet. Also, see the tension that the steering column is putting on the firewall seal. Both of these will need a better solution.
The power steering rack bolted in easily. I bought the unit for around $90 including the $20 core at Oreilly's auto parts. Also, I bought tie rod ends for another $50 just to get it all bolted together. In the future, I may need a bump steer kit that will replace these tie rod ends, but I'll save that for later.
I also bought some bump stops for the top of the coilover shocks to keep the spring caps from rubbing metal to metal on the camber plates. The mustang can once again be set back down on wheels moved around using its own suspension and steering.
I had intended to use the original steering column and steering shaft to save money. But I ended up finding a great Black Friday deal on a new steering column from www.johnnylawmotors.com -- under $250 for a tilt column that included the bearing, firewall mount, and Ford turn-signal adapter. Additionally, this meant that I could keep my upper u-joint to use on the new steering shaft.
A view from under the car
A view with the wheel installed.
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