Ford Mustang GT 1996-2004: How to Replace Wheel Hub and Bearing

That funny noise or pulling sensation you get while driving your Mustang down the highway might just be a bad wheel bearing and hub. This article will guide you through replacing your wheel and hub before more serious problems surface.

By Brett Foote - October 7, 2015
Contributors: Syracuse315

This article applies to the Ford Mustang GT (1996-2004).

Wheel bearings are the unsung heroes that keep your car rolling. The wheel bearing is packed into the wheel hub, which allows for easy rotation and prevents binding. The wheel mounts on the wheel hub, so if your hub isn't rotating freely, then more likely than not the wheels will struggle to rotate freely. When the bearing wears out, friction inside the hub increases, and over time will cause extreme fatigue to the hub as well as related suspension components. If the issue degrades too far, the hub can snap off while you're driving, which causes nasty accidents.

Fortunately, testing the wheel bearings is easy and you can check for play in your wheels at home with no special tools. Jack the car up in the front and place it on jack stands. Place your hands on the 12 and 6 positions, then shake the wheel back and forth. Excessive movement indicates that you have a bad wheel bearing or hub.

If your Mustang exhibits these symptoms, keep reading and we'll guide you through the process of replacing your wheel bearing and hub.

Materials Needed

Breaker bar
Torque wrench (rated to 258 ft/lbs or more)
36mm socket
15mm socket
Jack
Jack stands
Rubber mallet
C-clamp
Wire or wire hanger
Axle nut
New hub/bearing assembly
Flat head screwdriver

Step 1 – Prepare the car

Park the car on a flat surface. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel you will be replacing the hub and bearing. Jack the car up and place it on jack stands. Finish loosening the lug nuts and remove them. Then remove the wheel as well as tire and set aside.

Figure 1. Jack the car up and remove the wheel.

Step 2 – Remove brake caliper and rotor

Remove the two 15mm bolts from the back side of the brake caliper. If your bolts are rusty or stubbornly stuck in place, use a breaker bar. Turn the wheel to one side to gain the clearance necessary for the bar. Once the bolts are out, use a piece of wire or a wire hanger to hang the calipers in order to prevent damage to the brake lines. Pull the rotor off. If your rotor is rusty or stuck, hit each corner with a rubber mallet, turning the rotor 1/4 turn every time you strike it.

Figure 2. Remove the caliper bolts and caliper.
Figure 3. Hang the caliper out of the way with a piece of wire.
Figure 4. Pull the rotor off.

Step 3 – Remove old hub assembly

Remove the dust cover off of the hub assembly. These can be stubborn to remove, so if necessary, you can use a flat head screwdriver and/or a hammer to pry it off. Use a breaker bar and 36mm socket to remove the old axle nut. Since the axle nut is a one time use part, you can simply discard it. Remove the hub assembly by pulling it off.

Figure 5. Remove the dust cover and axle nut.
Figure 6. Remove the hub and bearing assembly.

Step 4 – Install new hub assembly

Slide the new hub assembly onto the spindle and use a torque wrench to tighten the new axle nut to 258 ft/lb. Install the dust cover, being careful not to damage it if you need to use a rubber mallet to get it in place. Install the rotor, then the brake caliper. Replace the two brake caliper bolts and tighten them to 85 ft/lb. Reinstall the wheel, lower the jack, and remove the jack stand. Repeat steps on the other side, and then test drive the car to ensure everything is working properly.