which Eaton blower is being used in the EE kit? is it the M90 or the M62? because i was looking over the Eaton site, and apparently both of them will work with our motors. and has anyone been able to use a smaller pulley than the 2.80"? i like the roots-type look better than centrifugal blowers or a turbo, but when i do get boosted, i dont want to drop almost 4 grand for something ill be changing out later for more power. i like the 6 and want to stick with it. thats not a question. i just wanna figure out how much boost can be pushed out of that blower and what my HP #'s will max out at. I have seen different blowers have pulleys as small as 2.50" and im wondering why i havent heard of anything like this for the X-Charger. if anyone can answer any of my ?'s it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
I am running a 2.6 with mine but also have a built motor, also this kit uses a MP90
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2005 Premium Satin Silver 4.0 V6, a few show and go mods
also what os there to do about the cooling, i heard there was no inter/after-cooling for the X, theres just a "boost-cooler kit" or something like that.
Posts: 705
Joined: 8/17/2005 From: Boston, MA Status: offline
I have one of the X-Chargers that's been running in the real world the longest (S/N 004) and am as happy with it now as the day it was installed (which is to say VERY happy). Did the install myself in about 7 hours, and it's functioned perfectly since.
If anyone considering getting in on the current group buy is in the MA/NH/RI area, I'd be glad to try an arrange a look see and a ride for them if they want to check out an X-Charger car in person. I also get down to CT once or twice a month for car club stuff in good weather.
< Message edited by Torch_Vert -- 8/28/2007 4:16:44 PM >
where did you get the pulley from and what kind of dyno numbers are you running?
I got all my pulleys from Dave at EE, the only cooling option for now is the meth/water injection kit, if you call or email about the s/c also ask about the injection kit as well, you will be steered in the right direction
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2005 Premium Satin Silver 4.0 V6, a few show and go mods
I will take you up on your offer of checking out your car. I just put in an order for the next group buy of the x charger and would like to see and experience it. I live in central IL and would be willing to make the trip
where did you get the pulley from and what kind of dyno numbers are you running?
I got all my pulleys from Dave at EE, the only cooling option for now is the meth/water injection kit, if you call or email about the s/c also ask about the injection kit as well, you will be steered in the right direction
How much is the meth/water injection kit? Is it also a DIY project? And does this eliminate the danger of running a non-intercooled blower?
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"GRAYRAY" 2006 V-6 5-speed Tungten Gray,Blk lthr int, Pony Pkg, int upgrade pkg, shaker 500 Carbon 3D Hood scoop,K&N CAI, GT single take off, Bamachips SCT 3.73 T-Loc rear,35/15 window tint, rear black out panel Stingray center console box cover
prices vary depending on the kit and it can be self installed, a few hand tools and some general mechanical ability and your ok, a lot of help on the forums also, operating a s/c with or without a intercooler is not where the danger is, its all in the tune
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2005 Premium Satin Silver 4.0 V6, a few show and go mods
I have a question about the water injection... what is the difference between the two water injection kits that b-chips has? why is one 300 bucks more expensive?!
second- how much is distilled water per gallon
third- how long does your tank generally last? a couple days, a week, months??? thanks guys.
edit: im also a bit concerrned about hydrolocking...if the kit malfunctions and keeps injecting after you are out of boost, will you hydrolock the engine???
< Message edited by 8cd03gro -- 9/18/2007 9:20:46 AM >
I have a question about the water injection... what is the difference between the two water injection kits that b-chips has? why is one 300 bucks more expensive?!
second- how much is distilled water per gallon
third- how long does your tank generally last? a couple days, a week, months??? thanks guys.
edit: im also a bit concerrned about hydrolocking...if the kit malfunctions and keeps injecting after you are out of boost, will you hydrolock the engine???
Doug at the place that I won't mention here because it's filtered out anyway... tailored the kit to the X-Charger after a lot of research. That's why you should buy the one from him.
Distilled water is cheap. Get it at Wally World or any other place. Personally, I run Boost Juice bought from Summit Racing (best price).
I'm the guy with the hydrolocking situation and it's because I didn't have a light monitoring when the pump was firing. As I've stated on that other unmentionable place, don't install the kit without a light -- you "can," but I'd sure recommend against it. Do NOT blame what happened to me on the kit. It is adjusted where I wanted it, at 3 PSI, and the light does what it should... it's on when the Boost Juice is on, and it's off when the Boost Juice is off. Purge the "malfunctioning kit" thing from your mind. I even had it, briefly, set to 2 PSI... but again, with the light, I knew when the pump was firing and that made it a piece of cake to adjust the setting on the pump. I'm thoroughly convinced there isn't a damn thing wrong with the pump, I just had it set too low and didn't know it because I DID NOT HAVE A LIGHT INSTALLED! Bottomline, don't worry about the kit.
The "tank" lasts as long as you let it. If you're into boost, you're into the Juice (or water). It's TOTALLY up to you how long it lasts. What might last a month for you might last someone else for three months and might last me for three days.
prices vary depending on the kit and it can be self installed, a few hand tools and some general mechanical ability and your ok, a lot of help on the forums also, operating a s/c with or without a intercooler is not where the danger is, it's all in the tune
Like the man said.
There is no mandate to run the Wet-X kit on the X-Charger IF you use safe tunes... and I can't imagine anyone putting the money and effort into installing an X-Charger and then having some crackpot develop POS tunes for it. It's like buying a Porsche and then running retreads on it for tires.
I have a question about the water injection... what is the difference between the two water injection kits that b-chips has? why is one 300 bucks more expensive?!
second- how much is distilled water per gallon
third- how long does your tank generally last? a couple days, a week, months??? thanks guys.
edit: im also a bit concerrned about hydrolocking...if the kit malfunctions and keeps injecting after you are out of boost, will you hydrolock the engine???
Doug at the place that I won't mention here because it's filtered out anyway... tailored the kit to the X-Charger after a lot of research. That's why you should buy the one from him.
Distilled water is cheap. Get it at Wally World or any other place. Personally, I run Boost Juice bought from Summit Racing (best price).
I'm the guy with the hydrolocking situation and it's because I didn't have a light monitoring when the pump was firing. As I've stated on that other unmentionable place, don't install the kit without a light -- you "can," but I'd sure recommend against it. Do NOT blame what happened to me on the kit. It is adjusted where I wanted it, at 3 PSI, and the light does what it should... it's on when the Boost Juice is on, and it's off when the Boost Juice is off. Purge the "malfunctioning kit" thing from your mind. I even had it, briefly, set to 2 PSI... but again, with the light, I knew when the pump was firing and that made it a piece of cake to adjust the setting on the pump. I'm thoroughly convinced there isn't a damn thing wrong with the pump, I just had it set too low and didn't know it because I DID NOT HAVE A LIGHT INSTALLED! Bottomline, don't worry about the kit.
The "tank" lasts as long as you let it. If you're into boost, you're into the Juice (or water). It's TOTALLY up to you how long it lasts. What might last a month for you might last someone else for three months and might last me for three days.
Russ
wow i didnt know you hydrolocked ur motor... so you set it to spray at to low a boost level and it just sprayed constantly? Interesting. Did you have to dip your block or did you catch it in time?
I had it towed to my mechanic's place, he got the fluid out, cleaned the plugs, and it ran okay. The oil was, of course, contaminated... so he did two oil changes. No mechanical problems.
Again, don't worry, just install a light.
Yes... I had it set so low it was firing even in vacuum. "INSTALL-A-LIGHT!"
is one controlled from in the cabin or digitally or something and the other with a screw or something like that? Like mbc vs ebc kinda?
oh and by dip the block i meant a chemical bath to get rid of rust...if you are hydrolocked bad sometimes u have to do that.
There are different control methods, as you can see on the Coolingmist site, but the one Doug sells is just fine as you receive it. There is a hole in the top of the pump's adjustment control and, "down inside" (the hole), there is a 5/64" Allen screw. You get the shortest Allen wrench you can find (and you'll understand what I mean by "shortest" if/when you install the Wet-X, because the bracket doesn't leave you a lot of slop to get your hand "in there" to do anything as it is... and a LONG Allen wrench is NOT going to work) and make small (1/4 turns seems to be about right while you're in the "adjusting" process) adjustments. "In" (or "down" or "tightening") is INCREASING the level of boost required to kick in the pump. "Out" (or "up" or "loosening") is DECREASING the level of boost required to kick in the pump.
Again, and if I was in front of you, I'd grab you by the shoulders and shake you and get in your face and tell you... don't do this unless you simultaneously install a light! Otherwise... well, it's all guess work, unless your ears are WAY better than mine and you can hear the pump kick in with the backseat down. I couldn't, and I tried many, many times. Just couldn't hear it. So, with me, it was all guess work, and I screwed things up by backing it out too far trying to get it to kick in at 3 PSI... and the rest is history.
There should be NO hesitation about buying the Wet-X if you're even remotely interested. One thing, though; if you even THINK you MIGHT do the Wet-X in the future... "sometime"... have the air-inlet elbow drilled with a 21/64" hole and tap it for a 1/8" NPT brass plug. Use Teflon "thread tape" to help seal the brass plug (which any good hardware store will have). Then... just install the X-Charger and forget about things and enjoy the power. "IF" you decide to go with the Wet-X later, just buy the kit, remove the brass plug, and install the injector (along with the rest of the kit, obviously). As "Afixer" (from that other place) told all of us, "IF" you even THINK you might want to go the Wet-X route, drill and tap the air-inlet elbow NOW... "BEFORE" you install the X-Charger. I did what he said and I'm glad I did. Otherwise... you get into removal/reinstallation issues with the X-Charger, or parts of it, and I didn't want to "go there." I tend to listen to the advice of those wiser than me, especially if they've "gone before me."
Anyway... I hope this information helps. Click once on the thumbnail image below, then again to blow it up to full size, and you'll see what I'm talking about.
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RE: X-Charger Discussion Thread - 
anyone here in nyc? lol
