For those intrepid do-it-yourselfers, here's some advice on an O/R H-pipe install, taken directly from a PM to USMCrebel when he was thinking about buying my H for $60 shipped:
listen VEEEEERY carefully, as I am about to make some suggestions that will save you so much time and headache, that you will want to name your next child 'groundpounder'
On the day that you're planning on strapping this on, or maybe the Friday evening before a Saturday install, get lotsa beer..
err, wait..
1) take your Mach to a muffler shop and have them knock all your bolts and O2 sensors loose. There are 4 bolts out back (2 per side) and 4 studs at the manifolds (2 per side). There are 4 O2 sensors, 2 on each bank, and muffler shops have a special wrench that looks like a big brake line wrench that they slide over the sensors and simply pop them loose. They're MUCH easier to put back on - I actually did mine with a crescent wrench and just put some grunt on them. When the muffler shop did the rear bolts, 3 of 4 stripped, so they ended up cutting them off with a torch (and these were bolts that only had 3,000 miles on them). Imagine how much fun THAT would be hacking away with a saw underneath your rig. Not pretty. But these guys threw it up on the rack, backed off what needed backing off, cut what needed to be cut, and the car was in the air for about 10 minutes total.
2) get 4 new bolts for the rear (and if you need them, nuts for the studs up front). I didn't need the nuts for the studs, but the bolts obviously since mine had to be cut. Makes it SO much easier on the install of the H to be using nice and clean, non rusty bolts.
3) take it slow on the stud nuts up front (both taking them off and putting them back on) and use penetrating oil (WD40 or whatever). If you snap one of these like my buddy did on his 96 GT, much unhapiness ensues and the whole shebang goes to hell in a handbasket.
4) if you have an air impact or an air rachet, make use of it.
5) use a jackstand or wooden block to keep your mufflers and cat back aligned properly
6) if you don't have a long 3/8 extension or two and a u-joint for same, get them before you start. There are some angles on this that you cannot reach in a straight line.
7) for the passenger side, there is a one-use crush gasket that you should get from your local stealership (PN 2C5Z9448AA ~$20) OR you can get some exhaust sealer pooky in a tube and slack it on where your H where the manifolds bolt up. Just a little insurance.
The H bolts right up in place of the old one, and it's MUCH easier to install because there are no cats in the way. It's still tight, but there's enough room to get it done without too much pain. I did mine by myself and had the old one off and new one on within an hour.
< Message edited by groundpounder -- 3/4/2008 8:47:17 AM >
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Acer2428 If MF were a Disney movie, I'd be the retarded step-brother who eventually saves everyone by hitting the burgular over the head with a frying pan and then clapping my hands all retarded-like.
Acer2428 If MF were a Disney movie, I'd be the retarded step-brother who eventually saves everyone by hitting the burgular over the head with a frying pan and then clapping my hands all retarded-like.
Hopefully going to be putting one on in the next couple weeks. Thanks for the tip on the muffler shop. never thought to just run it over there and have them break everything loose.
ORIGINAL: WIKD Thanks for the tip on the muffler shop. never thought to just run it over there and have them break everything loose.
absoLUTEly saved my life, and cost me like $10
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Acer2428 If MF were a Disney movie, I'd be the retarded step-brother who eventually saves everyone by hitting the burgular over the head with a frying pan and then clapping my hands all retarded-like.
yeah - it wasn't too bad. Just sounded like a bunch of exhaust leaks. I let it cool off for about an hour (beers), put it on jackstands, crawled underneath it and had the O/R H in within an hour.
spooged myself when I cranked it and ran it through the gears for the first time, too!
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Acer2428 If MF were a Disney movie, I'd be the retarded step-brother who eventually saves everyone by hitting the burgular over the head with a frying pan and then clapping my hands all retarded-like.
Posts: 3186
Joined: 4/19/2005 From: Richmond, Virginia Status: offline
Does this matter if you already swapped out the stock midpipe for an aftermarket one? Reason I ask is because I was thinkign about switching over to an o/r x-pipe. Would I have to do all this or are all the nuts and bolts reasonably loose already? However, I shop put them on so I'm sure they used some sort of air tool or something to really keep those fuggers on.
Thoughts?
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2004 Mach 1 Torch Red 5-Speed
Too much work done with the exhaust. It's time to move on. It's time to move on...
I would still have a shop loosen them (including the O2 sensors with that handy-dandy tool they have). If they put 'em on with air, you'll need 'em off with air.
Like I said in the OP, 3 of 4 of my rear bolts stripped and they had 3,000 miles on them. And if you snap even one stud off at the manifold, and you go from the peak to the valley QUICK!
I'd still say let 'em do it. The added bonus is after you drive from the shop with everything loose, you can knock a cold one down while you're waiting for the pipes to cool. Multi-tasking!!
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Acer2428 If MF were a Disney movie, I'd be the retarded step-brother who eventually saves everyone by hitting the burgular over the head with a frying pan and then clapping my hands all retarded-like.
Does this matter if you already swapped out the stock midpipe for an aftermarket one? Reason I ask is because I was thinkign about switching over to an o/r x-pipe. Would I have to do all this or are all the nuts and bolts reasonably loose already? However, I shop put them on so I'm sure they used some sort of air tool or something to really keep those fuggers on.
Thoughts?
Don't be skerd. You can do it! Seriously, buy a o2 socket and you'll be good. What I did was unplugged the o2's and left them in the pipe until it's completely off. Then you can get some leverage on the sensors AND it'll be easier to put them into the new pipe. The one sensor on the pass. side up front is a little hard to get to and unplug but it's possible. If I can get my forearms up there most anyone else can. As far as the other bolts just make sure when you go after the pass. side header connection make sure the socket is on the nut and use lots of PB blaster. The bolts at the catback are gravy. Can't wait to here that bad boy with those Packs!!
I agree, but all I was saying is it only takes one snapped stud or a couple of stripped bolts to REALLY make this a sh!t deal.
Right at that moment when the lower stud on the driver's side snaps off, he'll be thinking, "Why the FOOK didn't I listen to gp and have a local muffler shop just back them off a little "
But those O2 sensor sockets are the BOMB, yo! Kind of a specialized tool, so most won't have it laying around in the toolbox. Probably could rent one from the Zone, but hell, by the time you run over there and rent it, you just as easily could have had a local muff shop back things off - seriously, it took the shop I went to less than 10 minutes to throw it in the air and pop every thing loose, and they had to cut 3 of the 4 bolts at the rear of the factory mid-pipe. and it cost me $10...
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Acer2428 If MF were a Disney movie, I'd be the retarded step-brother who eventually saves everyone by hitting the burgular over the head with a frying pan and then clapping my hands all retarded-like.
Just spray the nuts and bolts and o2 sensors down with WD 40 or any penetrant. If it doesnt come loose spray it again and move on to the next one. Mine all came loose without air tools (which I have btw) and I used a open end wrench on my o2's. When installing a dab of anti seize on the thread will make removing again alot easier.
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Accufab 60mm twin K&N Aircharger w/screen Tri-ax Predator +1.5 lean, 2-4k +1.5 lean, 4-7k Timing + 6% 2k-7k A/F 12.8-13.0 255x45rx17 BFG KDW''s 3/8 Spacer IAC plate Stainless Bassini o/r X (Thanks cmylxgo) 3 disk Car Chemistry inserts. D
Posts: 3186
Joined: 4/19/2005 From: Richmond, Virginia Status: offline
I'm afraid I'm going to fugg something up, being mechanically retarded and all. My pipe hasn't come yet but I went under the car just to see what I was up against and holy **** that passenger side top bolt is going to be a serious pain in the anus. It would help if my rhyno ramps didn't suck so much and actually lifted the car in the air lol.
I have this little cheap Duralast jack and 2 jack stands but I'm a little scared to use them.
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2004 Mach 1 Torch Red 5-Speed
Too much work done with the exhaust. It's time to move on. It's time to move on...
I just installed a Mac o/rh pipe yesterday. It was a peice of cake................ execpt for the bottom bolt on the passanger side manifold. that one took me a while to get off, but other then that it was easy.
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EAT RICE 03 MACH 1- Spending money that I don't have to buy parts that I don't need to impress people that I don't know.
full bolt ons minus headers and intake spacer. some suspension work, and a few appearance items = sex on wheels.
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H-pipe install tips - 
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