as far as getting a built b/e, if you do it right, and yourself. you could have a built bottom end and built and ported heads for the same price of buying a built b/e. youll pay 4 to 5k for a good b/e.. but doing it your self opens a lot of options.
i'm willing to have a shop do any necessary machining of the block....
but i want to do everything else myself
help me find the right rotating assembly for my application:
1) i just want a forged assembly for piece of mind 2) no head work 3) i'm not going to run more than 12 psi 4) pump gas 92 5) same or slightly lower compression ratio is ok
if thats all you really want then why even buy a r/t just buy the same compression pistons and some rods. when you take the b/e apart take the crank and the rods and pistons and get them balanced. still get machine work done. 12 psi is not much. the heads all stock will handle taht no prob.
just make sure you know what you want. a year from now when you decide you want 16 psi, will your set up handle it
you should not buy the rotating assy until they do the bore work so you know what pistons to go with...once you have the size it is easy to pop in rotating assy in. all about measing all the tollerances to make sure they are within specs. all about the position of the rings, gaps of the bearings, and try not too FU&& it up!!! :)
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personal best time: 60ft 1.88 at a time of 12.593 run....Saleen SC, 12lb boost, 4.10, 60lb inj, full suspension, LBA LTs, COI
When people say "build the bottem end", is that the same as "forging the internals". I am looking at 500rwhp in the future but not if that means 4-5k to "forge the internals".
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If you disagree with the post above, you are wrong.
You guys are really way out there.... Pulling the pistons and rods from the bottom of the block? Not removing the heads? I strongly suggest you get some help from somebody that had some experience building a 4.6 because the clearance s on the rod and main bearings have to be exactly in proper tolerance or your oil pressure will be fubar. You normally buy pistons and then have the machine shop bore and hone to match the piston set. Then they balance the assembly How can you file fit the rings from the bottom? Have you ever even built any engines? It sure doen't sound like it. You just want to slap the parts in but they have to be doen following proper procedure.
< Message edited by zkiller -- 5/12/2008 5:23:43 AM >
I used to build engines for dirt track cars, mostly 350 chevy, but many 302's and 351's...I built my own 289...If I had to guess Id say 200 plus engines....Once the crank is out you can either pull out the pistons and rods, in a newer engine, or push them out if the heads are off...Crank bearings are done from the bottom. You can mic the clearances or use worm tape and mic the tape ....you dont bore a block if u are using stock sized pistons....you hone a block only if it has a lip at the top of the cylinder or if u bore it or to restore cross hatching...the assembly comes internally balanced....yes you can install pistons from the bottom....there is a ring compression tool that sinks the rings...No machine work should be required...Now that being said, if you want better head bolts, better head gaskets...for a FI setup then yes, pull the heads, deck the block and heads, put on better gaskets, better chains.....the list never ends...
quote:
ORIGINAL: zkiller
You guys are really way out there.... Pulling the pistons and rods from the bottom of the block? Not removing the heads? I strongly suggest you get some help from somebody that had some experience building a 4.6 because the clearance s on the rod and main bearings have to be exactly in proper tolerance or your oil pressure will be fubar. You normally buy pistons and then have the machine shop bore and hone to match the piston set. Then they balance the assembly How can you file fit the rings from the bottom? Have you ever even built any engines? It sure doen't sound like it. You just want to slap the parts in but they have to be doen following proper procedure.
Not to be the pessimist but I think you will end up with a long drawn out process that might take alot longer than you think. Probably alot of small parts you will need that you wont know you need. Then it ordering, waiting to show up, install, and then find the next thing.
Not that I have the cohones to do this either but I think installing a built shortblock would be much more acheivable.
MMR and Livernois stuff both looks good. But what about the new Aluminator shortblocks from ford? Supposed to have the 3v available now. I would call Steve @ Towsley and see what he could get one for.
You can drop that in with the stock heads at your leisure and run 12-14psi easy. You will probably need to run more in the 14-15psi range since I assume you would get 8.5-1 compression. Less chance of detonation on pump gas but will take a few more PSI to make the power.
As far as the springs on the head, I dont really see that being a problem unless you want to raise the max revs to 6750-7000. If you keep the limiter at 6200 you will be fine. You will be making so much torque you wont need to rev it like it was a Turbo, or Centri motor.
I have no doubt you could do either, but I think the shortblock option is less on the PITA scale. Plus it is still a cool DIY project.
Then you could sell your shortblock to recoup some of the costs. I would think it would be worth $1500+
Good luck either way.
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2007 Satin Silver GT 5 speed manual 3.55 gears Pypes Violater exhaust MGW Shifter BMR Control Arms Whipple HO
thanks boost guru, i think you're pretty much dead on, on all points
after researching the process, i've come to a conclusion.
if you don't already have all the special ford tools and a micrometer set, or can borrow them at no charge, money wise it doesn't make sense to do this yourself.
If you already have the money set aside for a new shortblock, why not roll the dice. I am sure you could get a 12psi pulley and dyno tune for 91 octane and drive it for a good while. If it does go boom, swap it out and up the boost.
I have read of a few people who are running at this boost level (Alternative Auto comes to mind) and survive.
Just a thought. Plus you get to post on here that you blew your motor and you get some cool car trophies.
Bent rod paper weight? Cracked piston ashtray? Window'd short block coffee table?
All good man decor.
Good Luck.
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2007 Satin Silver GT 5 speed manual 3.55 gears Pypes Violater exhaust MGW Shifter BMR Control Arms Whipple HO
BUILDING the short block is the easy part. Machine work is cheap, just make sure you have a reuptable shop do the machining and the balancing. If you have a machine shop machine everything properly, the only thing you need a micrometer for is if you get file-to-fit rings. Otherwise, there's no micrometer needed.
I've rebuilt SBC and BBC engines, as well as BBP (400/455). Those were all very easy. The thing that bothers me about working on this engine is I don't understand the ignition system (crank position sensor, etc etc), and how to degree the cams.
With that said, the things causing me hesitation will be present regardless whether I choose to buy a built short block or just buy a rotating assembly and build it myself - either way, the heads/cams come off, and you need to get them all abck together properly. So, I think I'll have Livernois do it for me. They said $2k labor to install one of their short blocks.
Every engine I've ever built, you just make sure it's machined properly, and then you order the correct size bearings, and you slap some 50W on them and put it together (or assembly lube).
It's the finer details, like making sure the mechanical timing is right, making sure the crank positioning sensor is in the proper spot, figuring out what you're going to do about the AC system, that kind of crap.. THAT's what always turns things into a mess.
Best of luck, and let us know what you decide.
One other thing - are you going to go with cam phaser lockouts?
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RE: Forged Rotating Kit - DIY? - 
