So i found a local mustang Mach 1. Has a few mods, 5 spd, azzure blue w/ 58k miles on it. Guy wants $12k obo. However on dyno he said if threw a rod through the block. would it be worth getting and fixing? and how much would it cost to fix? (I/my dad are pretty mechanically inclined and have pulled and rebuilt a few motors in our day, plus we have many decent hook ups w/ shops and auto parts)
so is it worth getting and fixing? if i can get it for under 12k?
ok thanks... i really want a mach 1... but all the good priced ones are 5spds. and im not sure i want a 5sp. i mean i dont do alot of city driving, i do alot of back road country driving... i am decent as stick right now... as always first and reverse are the hardest!
get the stick you will be happy you did. plus the auto machs dont come with a forged crank and the sticks do. if you dont do city driving then get the stick no problem will take a little while to learn but well worth it in the end.
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2003 Mach 1 spec stage 1 clutch pro 5.0 shifter K&N CAI O/R H Flows 17x9,17x10.5 Black FR500s
yeh i guess, just comes down to if i want to spend the money. I was originally looking for a gt for around $6k and then adding some nice little extras (supercharger and flowmaster)
Posts: 4025
Joined: 3/13/2007 From: Huntsville, AL Status: offline
dude if you've got access to a shop buy a gt body of any year, and nuild you a car! you'll learn so much more and enjoy it even more. for example if i had the money (baby on the way) i would buy a '99 v6 rolling chasis an 08 navi motor break that motor down put forged rods in her throw 2 turbo's and a big rear mount intercooler and feed the IC with NOS to super cool the air and BAM Z06 KILLER/ Viper Killer.
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2003 Ox Wht Mach 1 1:814 bone stock Her name is Melanie
lol, i was actaully thinking on doing that... i have been told its a big headache w/ swaping in a v8 motor and such. dont really need a viper killer either. just want a 300-350ish hp DD. that will kill whatever i come across. or def. give it a run for its money
i told myself if i got a mustang id want to keep it under 8k...unless it was a mach 1 then under 12k lol. kind of weighing out my options here. mach 1 would get better mpg and i wouldnt have to use 93 gas as if i had a turbo/supercharged gt
first you would have to use 93 octane with the mach they require it from the factory. and to find one under 12k?? good luck your looking at at least 16k if it has decent miles. but building your own can be fun but i went with a mach over a gt just for the simple fact that it has a 4V motor. they are easier to mod they start out at prolly 280 to the wheels. it would take almost a full bolt on GT to run with a stock mach. trust me go for the mach if at all possible you will be happier in the long run. then later if you want to build a really really fast car all you have to do is build the bottom end and slap some boost in there and your good to go
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2003 Mach 1 spec stage 1 clutch pro 5.0 shifter K&N CAI O/R H Flows 17x9,17x10.5 Black FR500s
^^^ +1 That's exactly what I started doing with mine. Though I went about it bass-ackwards and slapped the boost and the bolt-ons on before I got the forged itnernals. lol It's still much more worth it than a GT would be. Next project if/when I can afford it is a KB boost-a-pump so I can turn up the boost a little more.
But yah, I'd definitely have to agree with 03machme on that one OP. You'll definitely be happier in the long run with the Mach than you would be with GT. Hell, with headers/mids/exhaust/CAI and a good tune I wouldn't think you'd be sitting on my less than 325 or 330 to the wheels brudda, as the mach's were under-rated coming out of the factory anyway.
Posts: 4025
Joined: 3/13/2007 From: Huntsville, AL Status: offline
another thing you could look at is the SN95 4.6 32v cobra you can find a decent mileage one for ~6-10k their block is good to 1k hp( ferrari cast the aluminum block )
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2003 Ox Wht Mach 1 1:814 bone stock Her name is Melanie
So basically we have a Mach with a rod through the block for $12K
Upper half of the engine good? Tranny/clutch assembly OK? All accessories in working order? Nothing else hurt on the car except a rod poking it's head through the side of the block, as in no holes in the pan? Chards of metal in the heads, scoring the cams? Combustion chamber integrity still in tact?
When rebel was asking for more info, this is the kind of things he (and we) needed to know, jv, and here's why:
If all of that stuff is OK - and you didn't tell us, you just blew off rebel - then you might be on to something here. You can get a Livernois fully forged 4.6 4V shortblock good to 1,000 HP for $4K or a DSS 5.3L Big Bore fully forged stroker short block for $6.5K and make 400 RWHP naturally aspirated.
You offer this guy $10K and if he bites and you do your own work, then for anywhere from $15-18K, you're going to have yourself one unbelievably badass car that you and your dad built. One that will, with one power adder - say a 250 two stage nitrous shot - run low 10's all day long and be a reliable DD.
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Acer2428 If MF were a Disney movie, I'd be the retarded step-brother who eventually saves everyone by hitting the burgular over the head with a frying pan and then clapping my hands all retarded-like.
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Worth getting? - 
lol It's still much more worth it than a GT would be. Next project if/when I can afford it is a KB boost-a-pump so I can turn up the boost a little more. 
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