Changing brake pads.

Brian_Zinchuk · 07-18-2008, 05:23 AM

Tomorrow I'll be putting my new rotors on and in the paper that came with them it says to change the brake pads out as well. So delaying the install of the rotors I waited for the pads to come in. Now that they are in it also says that I should bleed the brake lines when I change the pads, is that a must do or will they be fine if I just put the new pads on and run it? Still using the proper rotor and pad brake in method of course.

Argonaut · 07-18-2008, 07:07 AM

There is no requirement to bleed your brakes when changing pads and rotors. Most street cars go for extended periods between brake fluid changes. However, IMO, on a performance car its not a bad idea depending on your mileage and usage. Are you installing new rotors for the look...or have you worn out the rotors? If its the later then you should consider doing the fluid also.

You may be aware of the following, but just in case:
- On the rear brakes, retracting the piston into the caliper is difficult. It takes a special tool. You have to turn the piston clockwise while applying pressure. Best bet is to rent a Disk Brake kit from a store like Autozone
- Make sure the e-brake is off (duh)
- New pads or rotors, or in your case both, need careful bedding in for optimum stopping power and long life. This is mostly a requirement for high performance pads but is also a very good idea for street pads. You can go to a website like Hawk brake pads or StopTech and read about the procedure. The short of it is you want to gradually bring the rotors and pads up to operating temp by doing repeated stopsand cause a 'transfer layer' of material from the pads to adhere to the rotors.

If you need any help let me know, I've done this about 5 times in the last couple months.

lrgnation · 07-18-2008, 10:23 AM

Make sure when you push the piston back in on the calipers that you open the bleedvalve first and then push the piston in. As not to push the dirty fluid up the master cylinder. After you do that proceed to bleed/flush all of the old fluid out with some dot4. ATE super blue i believe is the name of some pretty good dot4 brake fluid which has increased boiling point. Argonaut's correct about the rear brake, its a pita if you don't have the right tool that is for sure.

Brian_Zinchuk · 07-18-2008, 12:26 PM

I only have 9k miles on my car and the only reason I'm changing out the rotors is because the stock ones look nasty. Should I not even bother changing out the pads and just waiting for when I do need them? Do I need this tool even if I dont bleed the line?

Stoenr · 07-18-2008, 12:53 PM

I've swapped rotors without swapping pads, and swapped pads without changing rotors. No issues. at 9k and not racing the car, I see no need to bleed the system just yet, nor be concerned about opening the bleeders.
Are the pads wore out? 50+ left? leave em on then if 50+ % left.

Brian_Zinchuk · 07-18-2008, 01:48 PM

ok sound good