Any idea how to fix this door seal problem?
#1
Any idea how to fix this door seal problem?
I recently bought from a family member who bought it as a salvage title and rebuilt the car into what is, for the most part, a perfectly normal car. The only major issue that has been giving me a headache is a problem with the door causing the window to not seal properly. Its irritating because you can hear it whistling when driving and it leaks when I wash the car. It appears that the entire door shell is bent higher than it should be but I'm not entirely sure. At the moment I'm planning to keep looking around for a matching color door and just swap that if I need to. Hopefully somebody on here has better knowledge on this than I do. I included some pictures of the problem side as well as a reference picture of the opposite side. You can see the gap at the bottom of the window in the rear and it is fairly large.
#2
Did it get hit on the drivers side door? Passenger side looks fine. Without removing the drivers door panel it's hard to tell if it's a trim issue or if the door is actually jacked up. It could be that you just need a window track adjustment. If the window is bowed outward that would cause seal issues.
#3
That's a thing that also happens when people push the door open, and push it closed
by the window. The slit up top widens, so when the door closes, it doesn't seal
against the rubber weather seal properly because the opening is larger. Yeah the
top does because the window is curved, but the bottom part there has that gap. That
happened with an 2000 Avenger ES I had, people insisted on pushing on the
window to open or close the door, and it opened up the slit. I had to take the door
panel off, get two 1x4s, two "C" clamps, sandwich the top of the door between the
two pieces of wood (and a fabric cover of some sort to not scratch the paint on the
outside), tighten the "C" clamps to push the metal closer together.
If that is not the case, you can adjust the striker on the body. Loosen it up, then
use a hammer, tap on the striker and move it inward. This will pull the door in closer,
so check the body lines where the door closes now. If it's even, then you need to
close the gap up top.... Of course, if the door line is above the body line, then
adjust the striker. Check the body lines all around the door, just in case the hinges
need pushed in too.
by the window. The slit up top widens, so when the door closes, it doesn't seal
against the rubber weather seal properly because the opening is larger. Yeah the
top does because the window is curved, but the bottom part there has that gap. That
happened with an 2000 Avenger ES I had, people insisted on pushing on the
window to open or close the door, and it opened up the slit. I had to take the door
panel off, get two 1x4s, two "C" clamps, sandwich the top of the door between the
two pieces of wood (and a fabric cover of some sort to not scratch the paint on the
outside), tighten the "C" clamps to push the metal closer together.
If that is not the case, you can adjust the striker on the body. Loosen it up, then
use a hammer, tap on the striker and move it inward. This will pull the door in closer,
so check the body lines where the door closes now. If it's even, then you need to
close the gap up top.... Of course, if the door line is above the body line, then
adjust the striker. Check the body lines all around the door, just in case the hinges
need pushed in too.
#4
Did it get hit on the drivers side door? Passenger side looks fine. Without removing the drivers door panel it's hard to tell if it's a trim issue or if the door is actually jacked up. It could be that you just need a window track adjustment. If the window is bowed outward that would cause seal issues.
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Diabolical!
2005-2014 Mustangs
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11-19-2012 01:30 AM