Skrappy

Does anyone know of a speaker that will fit in the stock location of the Shaker 500 8" sub in the doors?

Has anyone tried it successfully?

I saw the sweet MOMO cover install, now I want to look into putting a good sub in there...

Thanks,

Skrappy

pottsi

My car had the shaker 1000 so maybe there diff but mine measured 10". The outer ring just pops off and you can measure it acuratly.
That said, Blaupunk makes a thin 10" sub that will fit right in without a spacer (here's a link, blaupunks site and parkaveelec I've never delt with parkaveelec so I cann't vouch for m). If you look around there are other subs that you can probably install with a 1" spacer. The availabe mounting depth in my door is 3.5".

Interesting info: The door subs are actually in a sealed enclosure that runs the lenght of the door.
The factory sub has one screw in it from the back going into the magnet.

Good luck! maybe someone else has other ideas

grasshopper

The door subs are 8" on all the Shakers.

Earthquake has a shallow woofer lineup which includes an 8", 150WRMS driver with a 2.125" mount depth. I'll be looking at these if the 10" I have doesn't give me the sound I want in the trunk.

Since Philostang proved the screw holes match perfectly to a basic aftermarket sub, there's no reason we can't assume any sub with the proper depth won't bolt right in. At worst, a little enlarging of the cutout might be required.

Strengthening of the factory enclosure is a must, even if you keep the factory subs. They resonate like crazy. Some things I'll be trying are rubber undercoating on the inside walls, and fiberglass, kittyhair or simple Dynamat on the outside walls of the enclosure. Even better, would be to cut some dowels out of wood or metal and glue them inside to bridge the larger surface walls together like the pillars in a parking garage. Just doing one or more of those would improve the sound a great deal and provide a better platform to build on with aftermarket subs.

Philostang

Yeah, grasshopper is right on the sub size--they're all 8"s in the Shaker line-up.

And thanks for the strengthening suggestions--you do have to take the entire door panel off if you want to change subs, because as pottsi (correctly this time ) noted, the subs have a screw coming in from the rear. As long as you've got it all dissassembled, you might as well strengthen the enclosure.

I think the easiest method would be with an epoxy based "hairy" mix. It should adhere better (test first) than one based in the standard vinylester resins commonly used for fiberglass, and it is much stronger. They're also just as easy to mix/stir.

Best,
-j

JJ_Stang

Here is some info on how someone installed a JL8w3 in the front sub spot,

LINK

nbk13nw

I just replaced the factory subs with some Rockford Fosgate P18S4 8" Single Voice Coil. Until I get my other amp installed they are running off the factory amps which really cannot power them correctly. The factory subs are Dual Voice Coil and a little more efficient for the factory amps.

The install did require some slight modification of the factory housing. By using a heat gun I was able to "mold" the housing to allow for the fitment of the larger subs. I did remove the cover on the magnets and still had to cut out the "bump" in the bottom of the housing where the factory retaining bolts come through. But over all, it took about an hour to mold and secure the new subs.

In order to remove the factory subs you need to remove the panel entirely from the door and then remove the single bolt from the rear of the panel that connects to the sub.

Once I had the proper fitment, I used some dampening mats to tighten up the enclosure a bit. As well as matting the inside of the exterior door panel and the interior panel too. This alone showed a remarkable increase in sound quality on the door speakers. Much better imaging and the rattles are gone as well as a much quieter ride (No more wind noise). I did something similar with the "pillar" idea. I took some 1/2" round ABS plastic dowels, fit them into the enclosure and used some epoxy them into place to provide some additional structural support.

06 Black Beauty

Thanks for the info. I was wondering how you used the factory wires from the factory sub to hook-up the new Fosgate subs. I read JJ Stang's link that he posted and there was a lot of great pics and advice on there but no one ever said how they used the factory wiring. Any info would be great. Thanks

nbk13nw

If you want to use the factory wiring from the dual VC subs, and use a single vc sub such as I did, then you can use a positive from one lead and a negative from the remaining lead. Although this does work, it is not nearly enough power to really use the new subs. They work, they sound good but another power source is definitely in order. I have a Fosgate P3001 Mono amp powering the dual P110S4 10" subs mounted in an Q-Logic box in the trunk and still have yet to install the Rokford Fosgate P4004 4 way for the fronts / rears and subs. Using a two cross-over for the door subs and the 6x8 two ways. (They make a much better mid bass than sub in that location... all the better since that is what is really missing up front anyway)

Skrappy

I have been looking at these for the stock location: Kicker SSMB8 (see link below)

http://www.kicker.com/06/index-dom-high.html

They are under the "Mids & Tweets" tab and are the "SS" Series 8" drivers. They are made by one of the best Subwoofer manufacturers and they are a shalow mount. They can handle 175 Watts RMS and go down to 30Hz, so they should be a great candidate for an aftermarket amp, if they fit...

What do you think?

Also, does the stock amp power to the 6x8 speakers in the doors and rear deck have a hi-pass crossover on them to keep the bass out? Is it all directed to to subs in the doors?

Thanks,

Skrappy

pottsi

[sm=sorry.gif] for the missinformation! When I measured my stock sub it is 9.5" outside diameter so I thought that was a 10" sub. So I guess it's the cone size? that determines the sub size. Anyway, good thing I never ordered those 10s, I would've been disapointed!
Thanks for the correction.

Good luck with your install and post some picks when you finish.