LINE LOCKS ON AND WORKING FINE
#1
LINE LOCKS ON AND WORKING FINE
i saw a post from a few days ago that some of you guys want to put line locs on. i have mine installed and they work fine. you do need to put on on each front brake line. i don't have all the part #'s of the fittings i used but i did post the parts list on The Mustang Source forum. unfortunately the site isn't working right now but when it comes back up do a search for line locks and the thread should come up. there were a ton of posts on that thread so it may take awhile to get to mine. i did not have to cut or reflare any lines. i did however buy a tube bender so i could make a few new lines to connect to the solenoids. i used Biondo Racing solenoids from either summit or jegs i don't remember which. all the fittings i used were bought at a local NAPA store so they shouldn't be hard for you to locate. i keep looking for my list or the invoice with the part #'s. it took two trips to get them all correct but that was better than cutting my brake lines i think.
#2
RE: LINE LOCKS ON AND WORKING FINE
here is from my post on TMS.
okay guys just did mine today. took more time to find the right fitting than to actually hook them up. here's the fitting #'s i used: 4) 1443 weatherhead/gates adapters 10-1mm(10mm diam. 1mm pitch thread) male to female standard 3/16 line(i think 3/8-24 thread).
2) 7934A weatherhead/gates 10-1mm female to 10-1mm female union.
4)3/16" female i.f. to 1/8" npt (for the solenoids)
4) 10" long 3/16" lines
it took all of 30 minutes for each side.
okay guys just did mine today. took more time to find the right fitting than to actually hook them up. here's the fitting #'s i used: 4) 1443 weatherhead/gates adapters 10-1mm(10mm diam. 1mm pitch thread) male to female standard 3/16 line(i think 3/8-24 thread).
2) 7934A weatherhead/gates 10-1mm female to 10-1mm female union.
4)3/16" female i.f. to 1/8" npt (for the solenoids)
4) 10" long 3/16" lines
it took all of 30 minutes for each side.
#3
RE: LINE LOCKS ON AND WORKING FINE
That's so helpful spyder. Now after the install I assume you had to bleed the brakes; can you comment on your methodology for doing that? Roughly what was your total cost?
Thanks again so much!!!
Thanks again so much!!!
#4
RE: LINE LOCKS ON AND WORKING FINE
i used a bleeder kit from napa also. it helps to lossen the bleeders and undo the cap on the master cyl. then let them drain for about 30 minutes. that will allow some air to push out of the system. then tighten bleeders and replace cap use instructions on bleeder kit to finish bleeding. i have no problems with ABS or braking in general. total cost about $125-150. i don't recall how much the fittings were but it wasn't much maybe $2-3 each. i found the hardest part is finding a place to run the wires inside for the switch. i just tapped into the horn circuit so i can just plug in the line locs at the track and use the horn button to activate them. this also prevents my alarm from triggering the horn at the track. open headers will set off the alarm sometimes and it's very annoying to me to hear peoples horns beeping in the pits or in the lanes.
#6
RE: LINE LOCKS ON AND WORKING FINE
i tapped into the horn circuit so i use the horn button as my line loc switch when at the track. it's neat clean and works good. when i want to drive on the street i just unplug the line locs and plug in the horn. i have a on-off-on switch to mount under the hood so i don't have to plug/unplug all the time. once i find a spot on the shifter i'll mount a push button for the line locs but for now it works good.
#7
RE: LINE LOCKS ON AND WORKING FINE
How exactly do you run the wires to the shifter? Would that also mean that you will need to like... Drill a hole in the shifter so that you could put a push button there? I'm really interested in the Line locs, because I suck at trying to hold a burnout. (I was using boots when I tried, so that might be a factor.) Also, did you buy a kit, and did the kit come with everything you needed?
Thanks, I'm sure you've gotten a lot of questions... so hopefully you'll be able to response.
-Menace.
Thanks, I'm sure you've gotten a lot of questions... so hopefully you'll be able to response.
-Menace.
#8
RE: LINE LOCKS ON AND WORKING FINE
The Hurst Kit uses a cheap looking switch that has a rubber band attached to it so you can stretch it around the shifter and have it at your fingertips. I have an auto so I mounted a guarded switch on the center console to the right of the shifter, that way I only have to stick a couple of fingers out to slap the switch off. For the most part, its just what you prefer. I like the horn deal, that was creative.
#9
RE: LINE LOCKS ON AND WORKING FINE
my wires run through the firewall on the passenger side kickpanel. it was a pain in the butt so i ran about 6 wires so i would have extras for other stuff in the future. i didn't buy a kit although pauls high performance has one for the 05-up mustangs now. i think it's about $300. the solenoids are about $40 each from summit or jegs. the rest of the fittings are available at NAPA(see my earlier post for part#'s).