skymedic

Thanks for the info. Thats exactly what I will get as well.


What is the LED looking thing to the left of the guages?


Do you have websites for everything you got?

Thanks in advance.

John

MacGyverGTP

I'm a pilot too, I have a Cherokee 140 out of Deer Valley, but density altitude on an already anemic plane like that is hard to feel. I just dont fly with 3 passengers in the summer. It must have a huge effect on more powerful engines. I do think that once I take her in this week & have it fine tuned, I will be a happier guy, or once this summer heat is gone... It is so pretty, I spent the extra money for the polished one.

Price breakdown was:
$5559 Intercooled KB supercharger
$650 Polished

$100 Shipping
$1190 Install


Coolant
fuel bung
dyno brought the total to $8221.19 for EVERYTHING! (no gauges) & they just regapped my stock plugs.

I got the Cyberdyne digital Fuel Pressure gauge (with recall)
Cyberdyne Boost gauge (with recall)
Raptor shift light
Speed of sound gauge pod
& easily installed all that stuff while I was waiting my 3 months for Kenne Bell to ship me the SC.

I do love the look of BigDaves gauge setup...

Oh, it took 3 days for them to install, but I told them to take their time.

BigDave

The gauge pod is from CDC, but others sell it as well:
http://www.classicdesignconcepts.com...splay/638.html

The gauges are from Jegs:
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...tegoryId=21325

The LED thing is a raptor shift light (in blue LEDs). I honestly never look at the tach when I'm horsing around. As you pilots would say, task saturation. (I was in the AF working on instruments/autopilot/INS in the old days). That's why analog faces are nice--you don't have to think about what that number means, just know where it belongs. We used to range mark them on the planes.
Here's Raptor's website:

http://www.raptorperformance.com/
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...ight/index.php

The water temp is plumbed into the outlet of the intercooler at the back of the manifold.
The fuel pressure sensor is on an inline T-connector (5/16 barb x2 ends, 1/8 NPT for the sensor) from Advance Auto held down with fuel line clamps. I don't consider cutting the fuel line the optimal choice, but it does not leak--and the two ends are just shoved onto barbs in the fuel rail without clamps anyhow. There is a schrader valve adaptor that is supposed to adapt to the fuel rail. I'm not sure who had that, KB?

There's a couple of photos of my KB at:
http://www.blacksharkracing.com/Building_the_Car.html

skymedic

Big Dave,

Very Nice pics. thanks for the info!


Macgyver,

Do you have any pics of yours? Gauges, etc...

Thanks,
JOhn

MacGyverGTP

I am working on building a Car website here this week. I have tons of photos & I need to go through them & resize, crop, etc...
Right now my website is:

http://www.n8483r.com & it will be an offshoot of that.

This one is all about aviation & my plane right now.

MacGyverGTP

Also see this post for a couple photos:

https://mustangforums.com/m_1312515/...tm.htm#1319158

skymedic

Just wondering if you can tell my why you used a mech boost guage instead of the electrical one. I noticed the other two are electrical.

Thanks,