Wiring in a Radar Detector...
07-24-2006, 10:24 PM
#21
5th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 3,881
RE: Wiring in a Radar Detector...
ORIGINAL: 05ROUSHER
There is not enough amp draw to drain your battery down from a radar detector. It will go off after about 20 mins. There is another timer besides the 10 min. key off timer. When I park my car in the garage or at work, when I get back in it as soon as I open the door it comes on. Yes I do turn it off when I remeber it.
ORIGINAL: 6605stang
Okay well, I thought I could make this work... I'll tell you what I did with the power cord I had (taken directly out of my GTP, which worked great) and you tell me what I did wrong.
My power cord only has 2 wires (1 red and 1 white). First I just connected the black wire (AFTER the Y) to the red wire (from the power cord) and the white wire (after the right light) to the white wire (from the power cord). This allowed the detector to work only when the lights were actually on, literally. When I realized that wasn't right, i tried following your directions a LITTLE closer and going off the black wire before the Y and using a ground lug. Soooo, I connected the red wire (from the power cord) to the black wire (BEFORE the Y) and the white wire to a ground lug drilled directly into the support frame. But NOW it's on all the time and I fear I'll run my battery dead! Grrr.... I know there is a way to do it so it simply is on when the key is on and off when the key is off. I just hoped I could do it from above by the lights so I wouldn't have to fish around behind or underneath the dash. Anyway, if you can see what I did wrong, I'll buy ya a beer or 10 next time your in Idaho Falls...
[:@]
ORIGINAL: 05ROUSHER
This is what I did for my detector. I posted this awhile back. Might work for you.
Hey, I just did a little modification that some of you might be interested in. If you have a radar detector mounted to your windsheild and you hate having that cord hangin down over the dash and plugged into the lighter socket (or you have put the start button mod on) then do what I did. First, go to a Radio Shack and pick up a "Size N Coaxial Power Plug" and a "Panel Mount Size N Coaxial Power Jack". Then remove the Dome Light assembly from the car and Drill a 5/16 hole in the forward part of the housing in the center. This needs to close to the edge of the housing so be careful. Next locate the single Black Wire that "Y's" out to each bulb. Using 16 gauge Hook Up Wire, strip a section of insulation from the Black Wire and solder the 16 ga. wire to it and the center post connection on the Power Jack. There is 3 solder lugs on the Power Jack, so I would reccommend using a ohmmeter to verify the power and grounding lugs before soldering. Then solder your ground wire to the ground lug and put a Ring Terminal on the other end so it can be attached to roof support framework. I made my ground wire about 4 inches long so as to have room for attachment. I also used a 1/2 long 1/4 drive zip screw to attach the ground lug to support. You cannot use the ground circuit for the lights because that is what Ford uses for the dimming feature of the lights. (and we don't want our detector shutting off) You can now snap the light housing back in place.
Now all you have to do is attach the Power Plug to your detector cord. Just make sure that you get the polarity right on this as well. You now have a hidden power port and the cord is up out of the way. This mod will also power down after the car is shut off and Ford Timer times out.
Enjoy
This is what I did for my detector. I posted this awhile back. Might work for you.
Hey, I just did a little modification that some of you might be interested in. If you have a radar detector mounted to your windsheild and you hate having that cord hangin down over the dash and plugged into the lighter socket (or you have put the start button mod on) then do what I did. First, go to a Radio Shack and pick up a "Size N Coaxial Power Plug" and a "Panel Mount Size N Coaxial Power Jack". Then remove the Dome Light assembly from the car and Drill a 5/16 hole in the forward part of the housing in the center. This needs to close to the edge of the housing so be careful. Next locate the single Black Wire that "Y's" out to each bulb. Using 16 gauge Hook Up Wire, strip a section of insulation from the Black Wire and solder the 16 ga. wire to it and the center post connection on the Power Jack. There is 3 solder lugs on the Power Jack, so I would reccommend using a ohmmeter to verify the power and grounding lugs before soldering. Then solder your ground wire to the ground lug and put a Ring Terminal on the other end so it can be attached to roof support framework. I made my ground wire about 4 inches long so as to have room for attachment. I also used a 1/2 long 1/4 drive zip screw to attach the ground lug to support. You cannot use the ground circuit for the lights because that is what Ford uses for the dimming feature of the lights. (and we don't want our detector shutting off) You can now snap the light housing back in place.
Now all you have to do is attach the Power Plug to your detector cord. Just make sure that you get the polarity right on this as well. You now have a hidden power port and the cord is up out of the way. This mod will also power down after the car is shut off and Ford Timer times out.
Enjoy
My power cord only has 2 wires (1 red and 1 white). First I just connected the black wire (AFTER the Y) to the red wire (from the power cord) and the white wire (after the right light) to the white wire (from the power cord). This allowed the detector to work only when the lights were actually on, literally. When I realized that wasn't right, i tried following your directions a LITTLE closer and going off the black wire before the Y and using a ground lug. Soooo, I connected the red wire (from the power cord) to the black wire (BEFORE the Y) and the white wire to a ground lug drilled directly into the support frame. But NOW it's on all the time and I fear I'll run my battery dead! Grrr.... I know there is a way to do it so it simply is on when the key is on and off when the key is off. I just hoped I could do it from above by the lights so I wouldn't have to fish around behind or underneath the dash. Anyway, if you can see what I did wrong, I'll buy ya a beer or 10 next time your in Idaho Falls...
[:@]
07-25-2006, 05:52 AM
#22
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Palmer, Alaska
Posts: 954
RE: Wiring in a Radar Detector...
ORIGINAL: Scott P
You want the detector mounted high to expand its range. I don't know about the tinit, so check with your detector's manufacturer. For power, tap into a switched lead like your stereo. That way, it will go off when the key if off.
You want the detector mounted high to expand its range. I don't know about the tinit, so check with your detector's manufacturer. For power, tap into a switched lead like your stereo. That way, it will go off when the key if off.
It depends on what type of radar you are trying to detect! This is old school thinking (no offense meant!) This statement is very true when regarding tryin to detect K, KA, X or any of the old 'frequency' type radars, But against newer Lazer radar you will want your detector mounted as close to your license plate or head lights in elevation. A Laser detector's beam at 1/4 mile out is less the 1" wide therefore if the cop is pointing their laser beam at the front end of your car (and they aim at your license plate) your detector (IF it even can detect laser radar) may never see the beam if it's way up by your mirror. Here's a fact; if a cop shoots his laser at a car beside you on the highway traveling normal speeds if he is good your laser radar will never go off! Laser radar are hard to beat with detection alone! But again, If you are trying to detect the old school radars, a detector is better able to catch a radar 'bounce' when mounted higher on our cars. 05SDI
07-25-2006, 06:06 AM
#23
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Palmer, Alaska
Posts: 954
RE: Wiring in a Radar Detector...
ORIGINAL: bl1nkage
Thats not correct.. mine draws 13 amps the entire time it is plugged in and never shuts off when it is plugged into the cigarette lighter. I left it plugged in for a week while I was gone out of state and came back to a dead battery.
Thats not correct.. mine draws 13 amps the entire time it is plugged in and never shuts off when it is plugged into the cigarette lighter. I left it plugged in for a week while I was gone out of state and came back to a dead battery.
WHAT? Sorry I don't buy your detector draws 13 amps!!! Maybe 1.3 amps or 1300 milliamps but your detector IS NOT pulling 13 amps period! Check you fuse in your cord or inside that detector and I'd bet it's 1.5 or 2 amp fuse.
OK first I guess I should have asked what detector you have that is drawing 13 amps? Does it have a loud hum that your stereo has to be half volume before you can't hear it any more? BTW even 1.3 amps from a radar detector is way high, except posibly at start up! Ok I'm done....
05SDI
07-25-2006, 04:49 PM
#24
5th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 3,881
RE: Wiring in a Radar Detector...
No.. its drawing 13-14 volts.. I actually have a digital read out on the detector telling me how much amperage it is drawing, and at home I have a picture of ... I believe 13.8 amps. It is a Beltronics Vector 995. When I get home Ill post the picture.
BTW the inline fuse for the detector is a 20 amp fuse.
Im sorry, my last post was incorrect, I typed the wrong word without thinking.. it is VOLTS not amps.
BTW the inline fuse for the detector is a 20 amp fuse.
Im sorry, my last post was incorrect, I typed the wrong word without thinking.. it is VOLTS not amps.
07-25-2006, 04:51 PM
#25
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
RE: Wiring in a Radar Detector...
That's because most tint contains a component that interferes with the detector.
ORIGINAL: Ben Wallace
Not sure about the wiring but My detectors manual says to not place it behind the tinted parts of the glass as it effects it's ability to detect and the range it has.
I have mine mounted just above that part of the glass, a couple inches above the dash.
Not sure about the wiring but My detectors manual says to not place it behind the tinted parts of the glass as it effects it's ability to detect and the range it has.
I have mine mounted just above that part of the glass, a couple inches above the dash.
07-25-2006, 05:19 PM
#26
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Palmer, Alaska
Posts: 954
RE: Wiring in a Radar Detector...
lol it's not a 20 amp fuse! Do you realize how much power 20amps X 12volts is? Lets put it this way how about ANYONE that can check an aftermarket stereo amp say 200 watts and have them check the fuse for that amp...IT WILL BE AROUND 20AMPS. You will not fine a 20 amp fuse inline for a simple radar detector you will fine a 2.0 amp fuse! Pull it out and look at the metal inside. Is it the size of the line a fine line pen could draw, or is it 1/16 of an inch wide or wider. You'll fine it the small thin piece of hair like thickness of metal. Think about it what drawls more power a radar detector or a 200 watt amp. OK I'm done! 5SDI
07-25-2006, 05:46 PM
#27
5th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 3,881
RE: Wiring in a Radar Detector...
Im not trying to argue dude, Ill be the first one to admit Im not a master electrician or anything. Im just saying... if it really is a 2 amp fuse then they forgot to put the point between the 2 and the 0. The fuse is probably.. 1 1/2" long, I have no idea how thick the wire is inside...
All I was saying was that it draws 13 volts average.. and I left if plugged in for a week and when I got back my battery was dead
All I was saying was that it draws 13 volts average.. and I left if plugged in for a week and when I got back my battery was dead
ORIGINAL: 05SDI
lol it's not a 20 amp fuse! Do you realize how much power 20amps X 12volts is? Lets put it this way how about ANYONE that can check an aftermarket stereo amp say 200 watts and have them check the fuse for that amp...IT WILL BE AROUND 20AMPS. You will not fine a 20 amp fuse inline for a simple radar detector you will fine a 2.0 amp fuse! Pull it out and look at the metal inside. Is it the size of the line a fine line pen could draw, or is it 1/16 of an inch wide or wider. You'll fine it the small thin piece of hair like thickness of metal. Think about it what drawls more power a radar detector or a 200 watt amp. OK I'm done! 5SDI
lol it's not a 20 amp fuse! Do you realize how much power 20amps X 12volts is? Lets put it this way how about ANYONE that can check an aftermarket stereo amp say 200 watts and have them check the fuse for that amp...IT WILL BE AROUND 20AMPS. You will not fine a 20 amp fuse inline for a simple radar detector you will fine a 2.0 amp fuse! Pull it out and look at the metal inside. Is it the size of the line a fine line pen could draw, or is it 1/16 of an inch wide or wider. You'll fine it the small thin piece of hair like thickness of metal. Think about it what drawls more power a radar detector or a 200 watt amp. OK I'm done! 5SDI
07-25-2006, 07:27 PM
#28
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Palmer, Alaska
Posts: 954
RE: Wiring in a Radar Detector...
Cool man! I not meaning to rag on you I just want to try and clear up some things. I'm not going to get into electrical 101, but every electrical device that is powered on your car (unless it has a voltage regulator) in your terms "drawls" 13 volts. This isn't quite true... Our cars are 12v system so that means there is anywhere from 12volts to 14volts AVALIBLE but it's the amount of amps that determends how much energy is 'drawn' from you battery. In laymens terms only; think of it like this if you were to leave your head lights on over night your battery would surely be dead the next moring, BUT if you were to leave your cell phone charger plugged in to a power point cig lighter type plug in that is powered at all times) you could leave it there for a week no problem. Why? both devices are 12Volts right? (yes) OK it's because the head lights are using more current (amps, energy, power what ever term that makes this easy to understand) but the little LED light on the cell charger stayed on 2 weeks and you still could start your car? But then when you put your multi meter on either the head lights or the cell charger they don't drawl 13 volts! They HAVE 13 volts avalible but they are drawing less then what ever the fuse that device has. I think head lights are 20 amp fuses and again your detector has a 2.0 amp fuse. I realize I can't explain thing worth a crap but hopefully I have cleared up a little. Oh and hey I leave my detector plugged in for a week at a time with out starting the car and the car starts every time. One last note for every degree away from 60 degrees you battery is loosing power not much but the further away from that temp the les power your battery is putting out..... lol Nevermind forget I said that! 05SDI
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