mdlesk

Okay, I need some major help! I already posted this on the Electronics board but all I got was one reply and it was basically like: "Why would you do that?" So maybe someone can help me here.
I have this: http://www.cardomain.com/item/PILPLSW29
Now I know the reviews aren't great, but I'm just trying to get it to work. It powers on and all, but whatever I hook up to it does not work. The wires do not have any polarity in them according to Pilot. I heard that it's just a wireless grounding switch, whatever that means! All i need to do is hook up my power and ground but I just can't figure it out. I tried running it like you normally would, power to one of the wires, and ground to the other wire and grounded to chassis via bolt. Like i said it's getting power, i'm not worried about it turning on within 50 ft like the reviews say, I just want it to turn on period! Please I would pay to have this working, it's killing me!

mdlesk

I got it all figured out. All I had to do was run the relay and for some reason channel 4 is working but not 1. Glad I tried it lol

backinblack06

Put in the Y adapters and the regulator and it sounds 100 times better than it did without it. My stereo shop never heard of that before. I even took it to them to listen to and he said "oh it sounds real good." I was like are you deaf? Everything sounds like it's playing out of the wrong speakers and there is very little high and mids, and everything sounds muffled. He just laughed and said it wasnt the high quality that i was used to in my jeep. Yea well props to me for not being that ignorant and working at a car audio shop. But thanks bchoice, everything works good for now and sounds decent. It will all come out soon but this is by far better that it sounded with the stock HU.

Do you know what that third harness if for that doesnt connect to anything anymore. There were only 2 wires in that harness I believe they were pink and white, and solid pink, Or maybe orange I can't remember ?

Professor Wizard

A silly situation I encountered last night.

My Passenger side Stop and blinkers stopped working.

I have the Meter4 Sequence kit and if blub number 1 doesn't fire the rest won't either..

I first attacked the wireing figuring that something came disconnected... After thorough I found the wiring was perfect - - so.. I check the bulbs! (Which is a PITA because you have to completely remove the tail light assembly to do it!)...

The inside bulb was burned out on the Stop/Turn filament

NOW - - - running around I learn that the factory installed bulb is a 4057 - - you can NOT buy a 4057 (Ford Proprietary)... However - you will find 4157 bulbs ready available at your local Auto Parts place and they work perfectly - and actually are rated at a higher hour capaciaty (8000 hours)

So... just so you know - - - if you burn out a stop/turn Rear bulb... replace with a 4197.

d_man777

I tried to follow the thread above regarding the S1000, but not being real familiar with the setup, I got lost. I have the S500 and was wondering if someone could explain (better yet, pics) the layout of the 500 system. Is all of the amplification in the H/U, or are there separate amps? If so where are they located? What is the input/output configuration? I might be the minority, but I like the MP3 capable 6-disc changer. Is there a way to improve sound quality through swapping amps? Any way to add a fader to the door subs or adjust the crossovers? Sorry, kind of thinking to myself...

I'll need to step up slowly (my CAI/X-Cal 2 should be here tomorrow). I have replaced the factory door speakers with Infinities which sound pretty good, but I think the stock H/U is the weak link. I'll probably get another pair for the rear deck, but I think I'd like to hear the new fronts on a different head unit first.

It seems like the door subs only play the real lows and the door mids are clipped too high. The mids just die out. I'd like to keep the door subs (at least for now), but need to consider where replacement amps might be located and getting all the wiring where it needs to go.

If any of you have "stepped" your way through a S500 upgrade, I'd like to hear about it. I'm not necessarily looking for a blasting loud system, just one that sounds good and clear across the whole range. Any recommended, reasonably priced replacement equipment suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks

D-

El Rafa

Got a 06 GT stang (spoiler delete). I already have an aftermarket hu, an amp, sub. My ? is I would like to dynomat the car, but right now not enough funds. I like to put in amp & sub, but does the trunk of this car rattle. It's a 10' JLW3 and I got a alpine 500 mono amp. Like to get some thump in there for the mean time, but if it rattles alot forget it.

thanks

Wolfmeat

The 2006 Owners Manual call for a 4057K or a 3157K. The 3157K is very common.

Mjacobsen64

There is a wiring harness that allows you to hook up an aftermarked HU to the shaker amps/subs?

I have a 2006 GT that had the shaker 500. I recently purchased a Kenwood DDX 6019. I've been going crazy trying to get the subs to work. I've been told twice that it's impossible to get the shaker amps/subs to work with an aftermarket unit, and wouldn't I like to purchase new amps/subs?

Which harness is it? I'd love to find more info on it.

Thanks

backinblack06

LOL....alot of people think it's impossible, but ther'ye just ignorant. Best buy told me nothing existed and it would be $300 to make it work lol..

I went to my buddies stereo shop and found a metra wiring harness. I found one here on Crutchfield that will work with your S500. Just click the link below.

Metra Wiring Harness

You plug the 2 RCA's into the sub left/right preamps on the back of your HU. I think you will also need to get the Y adapters like I did to make it sound right.

Mjacobsen64

Do I have to do anything to the "trigger" circuit. Some folks tell me that I have to put a big resistor in the circuit, because the stock amps only want 7v to turn on, not 12v.

Thanks for the help, I really do appreciate it!