RUSTY BRAKES!
#21
RE: RUSTY BRAKES!
ORIGINAL: fairlane292
Yeah, gee lots of dependencies you have there (lol). Sounds good with the agressive going on. Fit is generally quite good on these. One caution, I had issue as a few folks did with the base of lower opening warping. I spoke with CDC (mine did and if it happens I have a fix for ya) but they said they have not heard of the problem but it could be cause by baking (which the shops often do), I guess there is info in the install directions about baking temps but I didn't see it. I would suggest no baking for this reason. It doesn't help anything but get the parts out of the shop quicker. See if you can go w/o baking; these paints and clearcoat cure on their own fine. Baking isn't going to get you a more durable finish over air dry, but you may end up dealing with a wavy lower panel. (didn't notice this till a month after paint work)
Yeah, gee lots of dependencies you have there (lol). Sounds good with the agressive going on. Fit is generally quite good on these. One caution, I had issue as a few folks did with the base of lower opening warping. I spoke with CDC (mine did and if it happens I have a fix for ya) but they said they have not heard of the problem but it could be cause by baking (which the shops often do), I guess there is info in the install directions about baking temps but I didn't see it. I would suggest no baking for this reason. It doesn't help anything but get the parts out of the shop quicker. See if you can go w/o baking; these paints and clearcoat cure on their own fine. Baking isn't going to get you a more durable finish over air dry, but you may end up dealing with a wavy lower panel. (didn't notice this till a month after paint work)
#22
RE: RUSTY BRAKES!
I wouldn't bake at all (my car was recleared and not baked) talked to a few shops and they all said the same thing "only value to baking was so car (or parts) can be released to customer in a couple hours as opposed to overnight". They are right about heating the bubble issue; I had that problem on my Mits Galant; area was pushed in about size of a small football. Pulled bumper cover off and with heavy leather gloves and a heat gun got it to about 98% and the rest with small about of polyester glazing filler (not bondo). ...probably what they will do, but if they bake it after, then some of their work may undo itself. ...wouldn't do it, think they will agree.
#23
RE: RUSTY BRAKES!
ORIGINAL: fairlane292
I wouldn't bake at all (my car was recleared and not baked) talked to a few shops and they all said the same thing "only value to baking was so car (or parts) can be released to customer in a couple hours as opposed to overnight". They are right about heating the bubble issue; I had that problem on my Mits Galant; area was pushed in about size of a small football. Pulled bumper cover off and with heavy leather gloves and a heat gun got it to about 98% and the rest with small about of polyester glazing filler (not bondo). ...probably what they will do, but if they bake it after, then some of their work may undo itself. ...wouldn't do it, think they will agree.
I wouldn't bake at all (my car was recleared and not baked) talked to a few shops and they all said the same thing "only value to baking was so car (or parts) can be released to customer in a couple hours as opposed to overnight". They are right about heating the bubble issue; I had that problem on my Mits Galant; area was pushed in about size of a small football. Pulled bumper cover off and with heavy leather gloves and a heat gun got it to about 98% and the rest with small about of polyester glazing filler (not bondo). ...probably what they will do, but if they bake it after, then some of their work may undo itself. ...wouldn't do it, think they will agree.
#26
RE: RUSTY BRAKES!
ORIGINAL: fairlane292
I need say no more... you have NOTHING To worry about. Man, you must have been drooling all around that place. I've never seen anything like that.
I need say no more... you have NOTHING To worry about. Man, you must have been drooling all around that place. I've never seen anything like that.
ORIGINAL: fairlane292
hey BTW, you getting those mirrors done? (or have you already?) It's mandatory on silver stangs ya know. (lol)
hey BTW, you getting those mirrors done? (or have you already?) It's mandatory on silver stangs ya know. (lol)
#27
RE: RUSTY BRAKES!
Cool, you should sand the mirrors smooth yourself. You can be really fussy and save some real money there (it's 2.5 hours each one and you don't want to pay their rates for that) 60, 80, 100 grit dry, then 220, 320 wet.
#28
RE: RUSTY BRAKES!
ORIGINAL: fairlane292
Cool, you should sand the mirrors smooth yourself. You can be really fussy and save some real money there (it's 2.5 hours each one and you don't want to pay their rates for that) 60, 80, 100 grit dry, then 220, 320 wet.
Cool, you should sand the mirrors smooth yourself. You can be really fussy and save some real money there (it's 2.5 hours each one and you don't want to pay their rates for that) 60, 80, 100 grit dry, then 220, 320 wet.
#29
RE: RUSTY BRAKES!
Could do anytime. The plastic trim cover inside snaps off; you can squeeze and pull with one hand and use a stiff 1" putty knife or something similar and gently pry under the plastic. Not that hard really, working the knife around the perimeter some as you pull. (Snaps back on real easy); Put a cloth down below where you will remove 3 nuts (don't want one dropping down inside the door panel. Remove the three nuts and off the mirror comes. Oh just a thought, masking tape on the soft foam on the back of the mirrors when removed will pull away and tear much of this soft foam. Best if shop knows this and uses paper with masking around the edge only (in other words don't mask the entire back of mirror, it will damage foam big time.) One guy said he removed the foam and it went back on. I did not know you could do that, something to look at when you have them off. Don't forget to sand inside around the area surrounding the glass. At least use the 220, 320 wet in there so the paint will have something to bite on. They will use adhesion promoter, primer, base and clear (4 steps process but you will have done the expensive part) No one in the shop wants to fool around with those mirrors believe me (smoothening them I mean)
Well, it's off to bed for me. You'll have some fun with the upcoming mods. Enjoy.... see you around here. ...Jim
Well, it's off to bed for me. You'll have some fun with the upcoming mods. Enjoy.... see you around here. ...Jim
#30
RE: RUSTY BRAKES!
ORIGINAL: fairlane292
Could do anytime. The plastic trim cover inside snaps off; you can squeeze and pull with one hand and use a stiff 1" putty knife or something similar and gently pry under the plastic. Not that hard really, working the knife around the perimeter some as you pull. (Snaps back on real easy); Put a cloth down below where you will remove 3 nuts (don't want one dropping down inside the door panel. Remove the three nuts and off the mirror comes. Oh just a thought, masking tape on the soft foam on the back of the mirrors when removed will pull away and tear much of this soft foam. Best if shop knows this and uses paper with masking around the edge only (in other words don't mask the entire back of mirror, it will damage foam big time.) One guy said he removed the foam and it went back on. I did not know you could do that, something to look at when you have them off. Don't forget to sand inside around the area surrounding the glass. At least use the 220, 320 wet in there so the paint will have something to bite on. They will use adhesion promoter, primer, base and clear (4 steps process but you will have done the expensive part) No one in the shop wants to fool around with those mirrors believe me (smoothening them I mean)
Well, it's off to bed for me. You'll have some fun with the upcoming mods. Enjoy.... see you around here. ...Jim
Could do anytime. The plastic trim cover inside snaps off; you can squeeze and pull with one hand and use a stiff 1" putty knife or something similar and gently pry under the plastic. Not that hard really, working the knife around the perimeter some as you pull. (Snaps back on real easy); Put a cloth down below where you will remove 3 nuts (don't want one dropping down inside the door panel. Remove the three nuts and off the mirror comes. Oh just a thought, masking tape on the soft foam on the back of the mirrors when removed will pull away and tear much of this soft foam. Best if shop knows this and uses paper with masking around the edge only (in other words don't mask the entire back of mirror, it will damage foam big time.) One guy said he removed the foam and it went back on. I did not know you could do that, something to look at when you have them off. Don't forget to sand inside around the area surrounding the glass. At least use the 220, 320 wet in there so the paint will have something to bite on. They will use adhesion promoter, primer, base and clear (4 steps process but you will have done the expensive part) No one in the shop wants to fool around with those mirrors believe me (smoothening them I mean)
Well, it's off to bed for me. You'll have some fun with the upcoming mods. Enjoy.... see you around here. ...Jim