moosestang

The rocker switch is the activation switch, I may add another switch later just incase the switch fails. That is the reasoning behind an arming switch right?

As for the teflon tape, i realize now that tape on the stock brake line fittings is unecessary, but I'm not worried about it getting in the system due to the flare seal. Also teflon tape on the treads of the fittings that came allready on the new pieces of brake line was unecessary for the same reason, but tape on the brass adapter fittings that the new brake line fittings thread into was necessary since the threads are what is sealing the system at those points. I didn't see anyway around using those adapters without making my own brake line with new fittings like the stock ones. The fittings that come on all pre-flared brake line won't seal, i tried. I didn't want to buy a flare tool. I did try tightening the fittings that came on the new brake line in the solenoid ports prior to putting them on the car and they would not see for whatever reason. They didn't seem like the proper size thread or something.

I didn't use any compression fittings, like those used for airline with a crush collar.

moosestang

For those not familar with teflon tape, be sure to wrap the tape in the opposite direction of the threads or rather in the opposite directions of which way it's tightened. If you wrap it in the same direction it will start to unravel(sp?). I learned this installing a airbag system on my lowered truck.

moosestang

Also the system is working fine, but i've not had a chance to test it at the track. I had planned on going last night, but had to work late.

Does anyone know what type/size the stock brakeline fittings are? So I know what to ask for if i decide to redo the new line I added.

Justastockmustang

Thanks for checking back in Moosestang,

I was asking about the switch, not having a linelock myself, because in the installations I recalled having read about, there was a arming switch somewhere (it could be ugly to activate accidentally), and an activation switch mounted on the shifter **** so your hand could stay on the shifter.

Your switch installation looks very clean and out of the way. Obviously a switch on the shifter with a wire to it wouldn't look very pretty, and regardless of whichever shifter is best, I think your Hurst looks the best.

I'm assuming when you are at the line you will be holding this switch and letting go when you launch. So I am interested in how your switch position works out for you when you use it, keep us posted.

Looks great!

moosestang

I wasn't planning on using it at the line, only to do burnouts. When using at the line it makes perfect sense to put a switch on the shifter and a seperate arming switch. I can easily reach my switch without crouching down so it would work at the line, but I think a momentary switch would make more sense for that. I'll probably replace this switch with a momentary one sense that is what I thought I was purchasing. I read about people mounting LED's and such which I didn't want to mess with, the nice thing about this switch is it has a built in light, but it's still cheap compared to the airbag switches I had in my truck. Them suckers were all metal momentary toggle switches. I think I bought them at the hardware store, but can't remember.

Might have bought them online as well.

07GT

I agree with only using it to do burnouts. You don't need it at the line. Wait till you see how much fun a linelock is.

moosestang

I do need it at the line, last time I rolled back and redlighted for probably my best run. I still beat the snot out of the lexus beside me even though I let him get a full second head start. I'm not sure the year, but his first run against me was a high 15.

My other 6 runs I never rolled back once staged, I attributed that rollback to not apply the brakes hard once staged.

As for the teflon tape and flared fittings, I know I tightened that brakeline in the summit solenoid port as tight as I thought necessary to seat it and the line just would not seal like the stock fittings do, so i just went out and bought two more adapters that you see in the abs picture which require teflon tape or they will leak past the threads. How do you measure the size of the fittings? Do you measure the diameter across the fitting?

CrazyAl

This information is too late, but here it is anyway:

When you're working on critical fittings and you don't want to use teflon tape for the aformentioned safety reasons, you use teflon PASTE, also called joint compound or "pipe dope". The paste-like compounds won't break off bits that can contaminate the lines.

1fast05GT

this is fro GI Joe in another forum on how to use the cruise control off switch for line locks.

run your line locks of an open ground...Power them up all the time with an open ground just like nitrous kits wire up. Then run you grounds to the Tan and white wire located in the bundle under the steering wheel. see pic 1 You will have to remove the panel under the wheel...2 panels and the horn/air bag. MAKE SURE YOU disconnect the battery before starting.
The best place to tap into the wire is about 6 inches down line right above the tilt lever see pic 2 .
Now when you press the OFF button it will close the ground to the solenoids.
I completely cut my wire and tied in to the half going to the button. I dont want cruise...but you could just tap into it....BUT that means your brakes will APPLY when you hit the OFF button trying to use it. The thing resets when the ignition is turned off anyway so I see no need to have to turn it off going down the road. The rest of the buttons work as normal. This would work too as a momentary switch for spraying nitrous....no danger either because you would use it with an arming switch in line.

doodad

great job.. so when you do burnoutm do you have to bend to turn the switch off or it is pretty easy to reach there?

if i wanna do this, can i put the switch wherever i want?