Finished my linelocks finally........
10-27-2006, 05:18 AM
#21
6th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 11,278
RE: Finished my linelocks finally........
You can put the switch anywhere you want to.
That's a good idea about the cruise control switch, I never would have thought about that.
That's a good idea about the cruise control switch, I never would have thought about that.
ORIGINAL: doodad
great job.. so when you do burnoutm do you have to bend to turn the switch off or it is pretty easy to reach there?
if i wanna do this, can i put the switch wherever i want?
great job.. so when you do burnoutm do you have to bend to turn the switch off or it is pretty easy to reach there?
if i wanna do this, can i put the switch wherever i want?
10-27-2006, 05:15 PM
#22
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Maryland
Posts: 355
RE: Finished my linelocks finally........
Actually it shouldn't apply the brakes when you hit the "off" button, it should activate the solenoids, locking the front brakes in what ever position they are currently in.
ORIGINAL: 1fast05GT
this is fro GI Joe in another forum on how to use the cruise control off switch for line locks.
run your line locks of an open ground...Power them up all the time with an open ground just like nitrous kits wire up. Then run you grounds to the Tan and white wire located in the bundle under the steering wheel. see pic 1 You will have to remove the panel under the wheel...2 panels and the horn/air bag. MAKE SURE YOU disconnect the battery before starting.
The best place to tap into the wire is about 6 inches down line right above the tilt lever see pic 2 .
Now when you press the OFF button it will close the ground to the solenoids.
I completely cut my wire and tied in to the half going to the button. I dont want cruise...but you could just tap into it....BUT that means your brakes will APPLY when you hit the OFF button trying to use it. The thing resets when the ignition is turned off anyway so I see no need to have to turn it off going down the road. The rest of the buttons work as normal. This would work too as a momentary switch for spraying nitrous....no danger either because you would use it with an arming switch in line.
this is fro GI Joe in another forum on how to use the cruise control off switch for line locks.
run your line locks of an open ground...Power them up all the time with an open ground just like nitrous kits wire up. Then run you grounds to the Tan and white wire located in the bundle under the steering wheel. see pic 1 You will have to remove the panel under the wheel...2 panels and the horn/air bag. MAKE SURE YOU disconnect the battery before starting.
The best place to tap into the wire is about 6 inches down line right above the tilt lever see pic 2 .
Now when you press the OFF button it will close the ground to the solenoids.
I completely cut my wire and tied in to the half going to the button. I dont want cruise...but you could just tap into it....BUT that means your brakes will APPLY when you hit the OFF button trying to use it. The thing resets when the ignition is turned off anyway so I see no need to have to turn it off going down the road. The rest of the buttons work as normal. This would work too as a momentary switch for spraying nitrous....no danger either because you would use it with an arming switch in line.
10-27-2006, 05:19 PM
#23
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Maryland
Posts: 355
RE: Finished my linelocks finally........
Just to be clear, brake lines should not should NOT have any type of sealer, be it tape, paste or other.
If it leaks there is a problem that needs to be fixed, not sealed. Most likely a bad flare or the wrong fitting.
If it leaks there is a problem that needs to be fixed, not sealed. Most likely a bad flare or the wrong fitting.
ORIGINAL: CrazyAl
This information is too late, but here it is anyway:
When you're working on critical fittings and you don't want to use teflon tape for the aformentioned safety reasons, you use teflon PASTE, also called joint compound or "pipe dope". The paste-like compounds won't break off bits that can contaminate the lines.
This information is too late, but here it is anyway:
When you're working on critical fittings and you don't want to use teflon tape for the aformentioned safety reasons, you use teflon PASTE, also called joint compound or "pipe dope". The paste-like compounds won't break off bits that can contaminate the lines.
10-27-2006, 07:50 PM
#25
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Gainesville, FL
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RE: Finished my linelocks finally........
so are these considered flare fittings?
The stock fittings have an actual flare on the end which doesn't have threads.
The stock fittings have an actual flare on the end which doesn't have threads.
ORIGINAL: CrazyAl
Flare fittings do not require sealant.
However the occaisional fitting is NOT a flare fitting, and those do require sealant like any other tapered thread fitting.
Flare fittings do not require sealant.
However the occaisional fitting is NOT a flare fitting, and those do require sealant like any other tapered thread fitting.
10-27-2006, 08:14 PM
#26
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location:
Posts: 2,544
RE: Finished my linelocks finally........
Yes, that picture shows a flare fitting.
You see how the tubing is bent outward like the bell of a trumpet at the far right side of your photo? That is the flare. It's a "double flare" to be specific. Standard brake line stuff.
Anyway, the threaded nuts (the "gold" colored fittings) never touch the fluid, therefore you don't need any sealant on these. The seal occurs on the inside of the flared end of the tubing. The nut simply holds the end of the tubing against a tapered seat on the mating part. The seal occurs between those two surfaces.
You see how the tubing is bent outward like the bell of a trumpet at the far right side of your photo? That is the flare. It's a "double flare" to be specific. Standard brake line stuff.
Anyway, the threaded nuts (the "gold" colored fittings) never touch the fluid, therefore you don't need any sealant on these. The seal occurs on the inside of the flared end of the tubing. The nut simply holds the end of the tubing against a tapered seat on the mating part. The seal occurs between those two surfaces.
10-27-2006, 08:27 PM
#27
6th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 11,278
RE: Finished my linelocks finally........
I do understand how the seal works and why no teflon tape is needed, what I don't understand is what type of fittings are on the stock brake lines. I could not get the fittings pictured to seat which is why I used the adapters which have a tapered seat for them to seal, but need tape on the other side.
I wished i'd taken a picture of the stock fittings. I don't feel like bleeding my brakes again just to get a picture.
I wished i'd taken a picture of the stock fittings. I don't feel like bleeding my brakes again just to get a picture.
ORIGINAL: CrazyAl
Yes, that picture shows a flare fitting.
You see how the tubing is bent outward like the bell of a trumpet at the far right side of your photo? That is the flare. It's a "double flare" to be specific. Standard brake line stuff.
Anyway, the threaded nuts (the "gold" colored fittings) never touch the fluid, therefore you don't need any sealant on these. The seal occurs on the inside of the flared end of the tubing. The nut simply holds the end of the tubing against a tapered seat on the mating part. The seal occurs between those two surfaces.
Yes, that picture shows a flare fitting.
You see how the tubing is bent outward like the bell of a trumpet at the far right side of your photo? That is the flare. It's a "double flare" to be specific. Standard brake line stuff.
Anyway, the threaded nuts (the "gold" colored fittings) never touch the fluid, therefore you don't need any sealant on these. The seal occurs on the inside of the flared end of the tubing. The nut simply holds the end of the tubing against a tapered seat on the mating part. The seal occurs between those two surfaces.
10-27-2006, 08:29 PM
#28
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location:
Posts: 769
RE: Finished my linelocks finally........
ORIGINAL: Justastockmustang
Actually it shouldn't apply the brakes when you hit the "off" button, it should activate the solenoids, locking the front brakes in what ever position they are currently in.
Actually it shouldn't apply the brakes when you hit the "off" button, it should activate the solenoids, locking the front brakes in what ever position they are currently in.
ORIGINAL: 1fast05GT
this is fro GI Joe in another forum on how to use the cruise control off switch for line locks.
run your line locks of an open ground...Power them up all the time with an open ground just like nitrous kits wire up. Then run you grounds to the Tan and white wire located in the bundle under the steering wheel. see pic 1 You will have to remove the panel under the wheel...2 panels and the horn/air bag. MAKE SURE YOU disconnect the battery before starting.
The best place to tap into the wire is about 6 inches down line right above the tilt lever see pic 2 .
Now when you press the OFF button it will close the ground to the solenoids.
I completely cut my wire and tied in to the half going to the button. I dont want cruise...but you could just tap into it....BUT that means your brakes will APPLY when you hit the OFF button trying to use it. The thing resets when the ignition is turned off anyway so I see no need to have to turn it off going down the road. The rest of the buttons work as normal. This would work too as a momentary switch for spraying nitrous....no danger either because you would use it with an arming switch in line.
this is fro GI Joe in another forum on how to use the cruise control off switch for line locks.
run your line locks of an open ground...Power them up all the time with an open ground just like nitrous kits wire up. Then run you grounds to the Tan and white wire located in the bundle under the steering wheel. see pic 1 You will have to remove the panel under the wheel...2 panels and the horn/air bag. MAKE SURE YOU disconnect the battery before starting.
The best place to tap into the wire is about 6 inches down line right above the tilt lever see pic 2 .
Now when you press the OFF button it will close the ground to the solenoids.
I completely cut my wire and tied in to the half going to the button. I dont want cruise...but you could just tap into it....BUT that means your brakes will APPLY when you hit the OFF button trying to use it. The thing resets when the ignition is turned off anyway so I see no need to have to turn it off going down the road. The rest of the buttons work as normal. This would work too as a momentary switch for spraying nitrous....no danger either because you would use it with an arming switch in line.
10-27-2006, 08:41 PM
#29
6th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 11,278
RE: Finished my linelocks finally........
I believe the stock lines have a din bubble flare like pictured at the bottom of this page.
http://www.fedhillusa.com/index.html
The stock brake line nuts look similar to the ones pictured there.
http://www.fedhillusa.com/index.html
The stock brake line nuts look similar to the ones pictured there.
10-27-2006, 09:00 PM
#30
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Maryland
Posts: 355
RE: Finished my linelocks finally........
Yes, that is a flare fitting. Actually the brake line are double flares. If you look close you can see where the end of the tubing has been folded back on itself.
Great picture by the way. You take some awsome closeups!
I'm really not trying to be an *** and repeat myself about the sealant but it can be confusing when to use it and when not to.
But since this thread is about BRAKES, and the brakes are a safety issue, people should know that there are NO BRAKE LINES ON OUR MUSTANGS THAT REQUIRE SEALANT. NONE. If it is not a flare fitting, it is the wrong fitting for the brakes. Even flare adapters to change line size need no sealant.
If you are working on the brake lines, don't use sealant or tape. Done ranting.
moosestang - you do very neat work! I do suspect, though, that you were probably not given the proper size lines, and this is why you had to use the adapters. They are problably a metric size. If I were you I would try to get line with the correct size flare nuts. There can be a lot of pressure in brake lines and that is one of the reasons they use flares.
Great picture by the way. You take some awsome closeups!
I'm really not trying to be an *** and repeat myself about the sealant but it can be confusing when to use it and when not to.
But since this thread is about BRAKES, and the brakes are a safety issue, people should know that there are NO BRAKE LINES ON OUR MUSTANGS THAT REQUIRE SEALANT. NONE. If it is not a flare fitting, it is the wrong fitting for the brakes. Even flare adapters to change line size need no sealant.
If you are working on the brake lines, don't use sealant or tape. Done ranting.
moosestang - you do very neat work! I do suspect, though, that you were probably not given the proper size lines, and this is why you had to use the adapters. They are problably a metric size. If I were you I would try to get line with the correct size flare nuts. There can be a lot of pressure in brake lines and that is one of the reasons they use flares.
ORIGINAL: moosestang
so are these considered flare fittings?
The stock fittings have an actual flare on the end which doesn't have threads.
so are these considered flare fittings?
The stock fittings have an actual flare on the end which doesn't have threads.
ORIGINAL: CrazyAl
Flare fittings do not require sealant.
However the occaisional fitting is NOT a flare fitting, and those do require sealant like any other tapered thread fitting.
Flare fittings do not require sealant.
However the occaisional fitting is NOT a flare fitting, and those do require sealant like any other tapered thread fitting.
