Slotted and or Drilled Rotors. thoughts?
#1
Slotted and or Drilled Rotors. thoughts?
I am wondering if anyone has had any experience with the Slotted / Drilled Rotors?
I heard that you must use ceramic Pads if used. are they worth it. ?
I have already warpped my stock rotors 25,000 miles. with Rally Racing and Drag Strip I have been killing the brakes.
Some info I have found, drilled will help disapate heat, Slotted keeps the Pads from Glazing. Some say they are usless and that they are worse because you loose brakeing surface and you can't turn them.
I heard that you must use ceramic Pads if used. are they worth it. ?
I have already warpped my stock rotors 25,000 miles. with Rally Racing and Drag Strip I have been killing the brakes.
Some info I have found, drilled will help disapate heat, Slotted keeps the Pads from Glazing. Some say they are usless and that they are worse because you loose brakeing surface and you can't turn them.
#3
RE: Slotted and or Drilled Rotors. thoughts?
ORIGINAL: kenthicken
Drilled rotors, if they aren't really good quality, can crack from the heat. This is not a problem with slotted.
Drilled rotors, if they aren't really good quality, can crack from the heat. This is not a problem with slotted.
#4
RE: Slotted and or Drilled Rotors. thoughts?
unless your running Road race events...Drilled rotors are over kill...and you must get a QUALITY brand But they are pricey...
Slotted would be a excellent choice...Just a upgrade is Rotor size will be a huge improvement...
Slotted would be a excellent choice...Just a upgrade is Rotor size will be a huge improvement...
#5
RE: Slotted and or Drilled Rotors. thoughts?
Drilled and slotted rotors are there for the some reason. When the pad clamps the rotor you get heat and with heat you get gases coming off the pads. The slots and hole are there to give the gas some where to go. this is off Stop Tech Brake's web site:
MYTH # 3 - A SOFT BRAKE PEDAL IS THE RESULT OF PAD FADE
The all too familiar mushy brake pedal is caused by overheated brake fluid, not overheated pads. Repeated heavy use of the brakes may lead to "brake fade". There are two distinct varieties of brake fade
A) When the temperature at the interface between the pad and the rotor exceeds the thermal capacity of the pad, the pad loses friction capability due largely to out gassing of the binding agents in the pad compound. The brake pedal remains firm and solid but the car will not stop. The first indication is a distinctive and unpleasant smell which should serve as a warning to back off,
B) When the fluid boils in the calipers air bubbles are formed. Since air is compressible, the brake pedal becomes soft and "mushy" and pedal travel increases. You can probably still stop the car by pumping the pedal but efficient modulation is gone. This is a gradual process with lots of warning.
MYTH # 4 - BOILED BRAKE FLUID WILL BE SERVICABLE AFTER IT COOLS.
Once the brake fluid inside the caliper has boiled, it has lost a significant percentage of its original boiling point and should be replaced. It is not necessary to remove all of the fluid in the system, just bleed until clear fluid appears.
Randy
Hale Motorsports
MYTH # 3 - A SOFT BRAKE PEDAL IS THE RESULT OF PAD FADE
The all too familiar mushy brake pedal is caused by overheated brake fluid, not overheated pads. Repeated heavy use of the brakes may lead to "brake fade". There are two distinct varieties of brake fade
A) When the temperature at the interface between the pad and the rotor exceeds the thermal capacity of the pad, the pad loses friction capability due largely to out gassing of the binding agents in the pad compound. The brake pedal remains firm and solid but the car will not stop. The first indication is a distinctive and unpleasant smell which should serve as a warning to back off,
B) When the fluid boils in the calipers air bubbles are formed. Since air is compressible, the brake pedal becomes soft and "mushy" and pedal travel increases. You can probably still stop the car by pumping the pedal but efficient modulation is gone. This is a gradual process with lots of warning.
MYTH # 4 - BOILED BRAKE FLUID WILL BE SERVICABLE AFTER IT COOLS.
Once the brake fluid inside the caliper has boiled, it has lost a significant percentage of its original boiling point and should be replaced. It is not necessary to remove all of the fluid in the system, just bleed until clear fluid appears.
Randy
Hale Motorsports
#6
RE: Slotted and or Drilled Rotors. thoughts?
With modern brake pads, drilling and slotting is NOT a significant benefit.
Outgassing was and glazing was a major problem with brake pad formulations from back in the 70's. During that time slotting and drilling was used to help alleviate this problem. Since then it is not a concern.
Companies like stoptech leverage their marketing against the "cool looks" and the "race like appearance" of drilled/slotted rotors. The reality is that this is MARKETING. The holes/slots don't benefit you in any way.
Drilled rotors actually HURT the ability of the rotor to handle heat becasue they decrease it's thermal mass and ability to sink heat. Some people think the holes are there for cooling but that is not the case. The holes are pointing the wrong way for cooling. Radial holes (like the spokes of a wheel) help cooling. Axial holes do not. The purpose of drilled rotors is weight savings. However, they are less durable than solid rotors. Wilwood even has a note on their web site about this. They specifically caution against using drilled rotors, ONLY recommending them for racing applications where the team budget can afford to replace the rotors frequently due to their LOWER durability:
Read it straight from Wilwood here: http://www.wilwood.com/Centers/Infor..._answer/07.asp
Most "street" drilled rotors have a very small number of drilled holes. They drill just enough holes for the drilled look, without having a significant effect on the mass of the rotor. This lets them keep the rotor as durable as possible despite the drilling. If you have ever seen a REAL drilled rotor (for weight savings purposes) and compared the look of that rotor to a "style rotor" like a Stoptech you will see they are very different indeed.
Your biggest upgrade will be to increase the diameter of the disc. Larger diameter discs will have better brake torque and much better heat handling characteristincs. To do the job right, get a larger diameter brake kit. The GT500 swap would be a great choice.
...failing that, a pad upgrade would be the budget solution.
Here's an old post that you may want to read:
https://mustangforums.com/m_1702970/tm.htm
Outgassing was and glazing was a major problem with brake pad formulations from back in the 70's. During that time slotting and drilling was used to help alleviate this problem. Since then it is not a concern.
Companies like stoptech leverage their marketing against the "cool looks" and the "race like appearance" of drilled/slotted rotors. The reality is that this is MARKETING. The holes/slots don't benefit you in any way.
Drilled rotors actually HURT the ability of the rotor to handle heat becasue they decrease it's thermal mass and ability to sink heat. Some people think the holes are there for cooling but that is not the case. The holes are pointing the wrong way for cooling. Radial holes (like the spokes of a wheel) help cooling. Axial holes do not. The purpose of drilled rotors is weight savings. However, they are less durable than solid rotors. Wilwood even has a note on their web site about this. They specifically caution against using drilled rotors, ONLY recommending them for racing applications where the team budget can afford to replace the rotors frequently due to their LOWER durability:
Read it straight from Wilwood here: http://www.wilwood.com/Centers/Infor..._answer/07.asp
Most "street" drilled rotors have a very small number of drilled holes. They drill just enough holes for the drilled look, without having a significant effect on the mass of the rotor. This lets them keep the rotor as durable as possible despite the drilling. If you have ever seen a REAL drilled rotor (for weight savings purposes) and compared the look of that rotor to a "style rotor" like a Stoptech you will see they are very different indeed.
Your biggest upgrade will be to increase the diameter of the disc. Larger diameter discs will have better brake torque and much better heat handling characteristincs. To do the job right, get a larger diameter brake kit. The GT500 swap would be a great choice.
...failing that, a pad upgrade would be the budget solution.
Here's an old post that you may want to read:
https://mustangforums.com/m_1702970/tm.htm
#8
RE: Slotted and or Drilled Rotors. thoughts?
ORIGINAL: Sherwood06GT
Hmmmm....I'm going to assume there is a good reason why folks like Brembo, Bear and Wilwood use drilled rotors. But maybe I just don't get it.
ORIGINAL: kenthicken
Drilled rotors, if they aren't really good quality, can crack from the heat. This is not a problem with slotted.
Drilled rotors, if they aren't really good quality, can crack from the heat. This is not a problem with slotted.
#9
RE: Slotted and or Drilled Rotors. thoughts?
ORIGINAL: 1fast05GT
Yeah, you just don't get it. Brembo, Bear and Wilwood make good quality rotors.
ORIGINAL: Sherwood06GT
Hmmmm....I'm going to assume there is a good reason why folks like Brembo, Bear and Wilwood use drilled rotors. But maybe I just don't get it.
ORIGINAL: kenthicken
Drilled rotors, if they aren't really good quality, can crack from the heat. This is not a problem with slotted.
Drilled rotors, if they aren't really good quality, can crack from the heat. This is not a problem with slotted.
THAT, was my point!!!