grampa_stang

Try going down a driveway that has the typical 1 inch drop. Don't use the brakes to slowly creep
up/down that 1 inch lip either. That's all I had to do to hear it. Tip: Make sure you personally
drive the car with the technician sitting shotgun. That way, when you leave their driveway and
the car thunks, they can't deny it. My test drive only lasted about 30 ft. I got my new mounts.

fredlo69

Ford Dealers Suck B*lls!
But Ilove my car.
the clunker, thunker. lol

takotruckin

you are supposed to use a crows foot.

northy_polk

um, yeah, i realize that. but i shouldn't have to ESPECIALLY when trying to get torque on a bolt. the aftermarket links have flat spots on the bolts so you can "hold" them while you torque the nut with a socket. that's mypoint. it's easier to strip the nuts without a socket on there.

mvon919

Some people might know me from Modular Fords and Mustang Source forums... I've been dealing with this Clunking issue since day one and dealerships / Ford don't do anything for this. I've tried everything... I have Saleen Racecraft Suspension w/ Steeda HD mounts and Street end-links. I have torqued and molested every nut and bolt about 10 times and the clunk is there. I removed the Swaybars and the clunk is there.

I'm pretty sure, that the clunk originates from the lower spring seat and went to local HW store and bought 5 ft of thin wall (1/8") 5/8" inner diameter rubber "heater hose" that I'll install over my lower springs this week. The reason I suspect this that I and most people notice the clunk going away when you lift your car and torque what ever bolt/nut... usually end-link nut. THE REASON the clunk goes away is simple (I Hope)... when you take the weight off from the spring, it gets UN-seated and clunk is away, until the Spring "SEATS" itself again... pretty ironic. I've also noticed that the OEM Spring Isolators (the rubber over the spring) is moving and exposes spring to be in contact with the strut seat (metal against metal).

Also, I ordered CHE Rear Axle Brace from Powerhouse411 yesterday and some say, it takes some clunk away... though I haven't noticed any clunk coming from the rear axle. I have different reasons to install the Rear Brace than Clunk though.

I'll let you know if my DIY Isolator job gets rid of that fugly clunking. I'll cross my fingers.

Miikka
__
2007 GT/CS Supercharger "Stage Infinite"

torch red

Dude..we found the problem...

Replace with part # 8r3z-18183-b..

Mystery is over..

mvon919

I don't buy that. I have Steeda HD mounts which are superior in design... the clunk comes back to you after the spring sets in.

wolfey2k

I feel your thinking/theory is sound, however,,,,,evidently the Steeda HD mounts are NOT superior to the upgraded Ford mount or you wouldn't be hearing any thunking at all. I would agree that the Steeda's are superior, heck my ***** are superior to the original Ford strut mounts ;-D.

However, you are a lot closer to the cure than you realize in that your idea that a different kind of material may be the answer. You're really not wrong about the cure materially speaking but you are incorrect regarding which parts need correcting or enhancement.

You will be wasting your time taking the front end apart and installing those hoses over the spring ends for fitment into the spring seats. How do you know they will even stuff themselves into the spring seat after you install the thicker sleves?
I bet you end up having a fitment problem if not destroying the sleves's after going over a few bumps even if you manage to stuff the spring ends into the spring seats.

Ford's new upgraded mounts CURE the thunking issue, period, end of story. That's a fact.

Here is what bascho, who works at Ford and actually designed the replacement bracket/strut mount, says in post 1367, page 69.

"bascho
The new mount will look identical to your original except the mounting studs a few mm's longer. The real change was tothe compound of the rubber used in the mount. The "chuckle" or "loose-lumbar" (as is was called in the concern write-up) was attributed to the "radial" and a"axial" rates on the mount. The new rubber compound corrects this issue and thus corrects the"loose-lumbar" noise from the front suspension. I've compared the test graphs of the two mounts and there are drastic improvements to both the static radial and static axial rates for the new mount.

Ask your local parts person to enter 8R3Z-18183-B"

I'm not saying your repair couldn't work. I feel however you are wasting time and money. I have heard of others installing the Steeda's and getting rid of the thunk and I have heard just the opposite. At any rate, by replacing the strut mounts with after market components, it's a crap shoot.

If you replace the upper mounts with the above part number, you'll be good to go. That is unless you want the ability to adjust wheel angles to the road. Then yeah, you're probably gonna be stuck with the thunking noise.

Best of luck in any case. I know how frustrating that noise is and I also know what a joyful heavenly feeling it is to have it cured once and for all! ;-)

Wolfey2k

mvon919

Hmm... the rubber compound change might be the solution. Steeda HD mounts use the same rubber from OEM mount!

northy_polk

maybe steeda will take my HD mounts back. that would be nice of them now wouldn't it?!

mikka: you got proof that it's the same material? i'm not questioning you, i just want to know what i'm talking about when i talk to steeda!

if only i had a time machine i could have avoided buying this car in the first place.