2007 Front Suspension Thunking Noise
01-26-2011, 03:25 AM
#2111
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 32
If you have to change the ball joints its really easy all you need is the tools and the time. I changed mine on the car. Tie rods on those cars are a little bit tricky since the inner one is in the steering rack. I might would attempt it but not sure at this point. If the outer tie rods are still good but the boots are bad, auto parts stores sell the boot covers pretty cheap. You'll need a pickle fork or tie rod separator to break them loose but I put some of those boots on my wife's '66 Mustang.
01-26-2011, 09:04 AM
#2112
Not 100% a dick
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 953
http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-h...d-mustang.html
01-26-2011, 11:15 AM
#2113
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: IA
Posts: 19
Souldn't need sway links, just make sure they are tight on both ends. That is the most common reason for front end clunking on these cars and should always be checked first.
01-29-2011, 10:04 PM
#2114
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 32
Can order the strut mounts form online. I would order the M-18183-C, do an internet search and they'll come up for about $100. If you do the strut mounts you do not need camber plates, it's one or the other. The main reason you'd want camber plates is if you are going to be going to the track and want to adjust your camber. Otherwise for street use camber is set and forget.
Souldn't need sway links, just make sure they are tight on both ends. That is the most common reason for front end clunking on these cars and should always be checked first.
Souldn't need sway links, just make sure they are tight on both ends. That is the most common reason for front end clunking on these cars and should always be checked first.
I second all said here and to summarize the rest of this thread...do what nawagner said and your clunk should go away. The other stuff is the more expensive way and your front end may still clunk. However, if you choose to go the more expensive route and it does work you get an upgrade and repair at the same time.
02-01-2011, 09:29 PM
#2116
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 96
This thread Is so long I could never read it all, has anyone mentioned those plastic Inner front fender wells???? Mine were both flopping around & making noise, I took those stupid push pins out & replaced them with (believe it or not) REAL BOLTS! That fixed 75% of my rattling!
02-02-2011, 01:20 AM
#2117
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Washington
Posts: 1,768
update,
Alright so i was the guy who had my ball joints replaced under warranty.
Well the factory ended up replacing the entire A arm assembly. No loud clunk like before, still i little click, but it just sounds like a still suspension so i think i can live with it. I think in the long run i will replace my upper strut mounts...
Alright so i was the guy who had my ball joints replaced under warranty.
Well the factory ended up replacing the entire A arm assembly. No loud clunk like before, still i little click, but it just sounds like a still suspension so i think i can live with it. I think in the long run i will replace my upper strut mounts...
02-02-2011, 09:57 AM
#2120
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: IA
Posts: 19
The stabilizer is the sway bar link, the sway bar is the thick bar that runs from one side of the car to the other. The photo is the bolt on the bottom of the sway bar link (the verticle metal bar in the picture) that you need to make sure is tight, really tight. There is also a bolt on the top that needs to be tight. Since the nut threads onto the post that goes through the sway bar you'll need a socket to hold the post to keep it from spinning when you tighten the nut using an open end wrench. Can't remember sizes though.