Questions about lowering and suspension
12-02-2006, 04:38 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 12
Questions about lowering and suspension
I am a daily mustang 06 GT coupe driver in michigan (potholes.. and sometimes lots of snow) but i certainly want to lower my stang
I guess this was asked before already but i wanted to make sure
How much can i lower my stang without losing from ride quality? I dont mind changing the struts or adding some other equipment. if i do it i want to do it right. and i guess lowering the car alters some geometries. how can i fix that. What parts should i use?
i also saw that changing the dampers, struts to D-specs actually increases ride quality is that true? i mean is it really possible to lower the car and increase ride quality?
While i was looking arround Eibach pro-kit seemed good but i am not sure.
These are the questions that came up to my mind
I am really new to cars and suspensions this will be my first modification ever in my life.
If you can help me with these that would be awesome
Thank you (i have 18 inch rims on my stang)
12-02-2006, 05:04 PM
#2
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RE: Questions about lowering and suspension
I feel your pain. I live in metro detroit so I know exactly what you mean about the roads. I guess the MDOT guys fly to the jobsite every day because you know shyt would get taken care of better if they had to drive it too! [&:]
Bottom line is that you will be hard pressed to tuck those wheels in the fenders AND keep a decent ride. In most cases there are ways to have your cake and eat it too but the standard is that the lower and more supportive your suspension is of performance, the harsher the ride becomes. Its all a matter of how much you can stand. The best way to lower any vehicle is to get coilovers and/or control arms that allow the height to be completely adjustable. A camber/caster kit is nice as well because this will help with bydproducts of lowered cars such as bump steer and abnormal tire wear. I would recommend you stay away from the spring only route. Keep in mind you won't have any broken components covered under warranty.
Look at it this way. There are only a few stock vehicles that come with 18 inch rims, low profile tires and low ride height / performance suspension that is tolerable on crappy roads. They typically involve a German or Italian name and cost more than twice the price of your mustang. It really does take that much time and money to do correctly. I went with (on my foxbody) adjustable shocks and control arms, camber/caster plates, sway bars, springs and bushings. The whole freakin 9 yards and the local roads BEAT ME TO DEATH. it really is sad how harsh the roads are to it but if you and I lived in a better location this wouldn't even be a discussion.
Bottom line is that you will be hard pressed to tuck those wheels in the fenders AND keep a decent ride. In most cases there are ways to have your cake and eat it too but the standard is that the lower and more supportive your suspension is of performance, the harsher the ride becomes. Its all a matter of how much you can stand. The best way to lower any vehicle is to get coilovers and/or control arms that allow the height to be completely adjustable. A camber/caster kit is nice as well because this will help with bydproducts of lowered cars such as bump steer and abnormal tire wear. I would recommend you stay away from the spring only route. Keep in mind you won't have any broken components covered under warranty.
Look at it this way. There are only a few stock vehicles that come with 18 inch rims, low profile tires and low ride height / performance suspension that is tolerable on crappy roads. They typically involve a German or Italian name and cost more than twice the price of your mustang. It really does take that much time and money to do correctly. I went with (on my foxbody) adjustable shocks and control arms, camber/caster plates, sway bars, springs and bushings. The whole freakin 9 yards and the local roads BEAT ME TO DEATH. it really is sad how harsh the roads are to it but if you and I lived in a better location this wouldn't even be a discussion.
12-02-2006, 05:43 PM
#3
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RE: Questions about lowering and suspension
Simple! (considering your driving conditions, similar to here in MA) No need to lower the front, only the back needs to be lowered (to eliminate the unsightly gap in the rear wheelwell) You can get Roush or FRPP rear lowering coils and not need the four in Eibach ProKit and others. Measure left and right side rim surface to wheelwell with string and plumb bob before lowering. OE can be off 1/4" to 3/8". If after lowering you're within a 1/4" you could skip the adj panhard bar. Rear coils and panhard bar are easy install, no special tools; about an hour of work.
I am considering Tokico all around to improve the ride over OE; not sure that's what I'll get (will try softest first) but it sounds it from what folks are saying. Good luck but I wouldn't touch the front, the car has got too much OE rake now and that rear ww gap is an embarrasment IMO. (Lowered mine the night I brought it home so no one would see that.)
click on thumbnail...
[IMG]local://upfiles/24316/B693446105D340D09DF37EB43ABD5744.jpg[/IMG]
I am considering Tokico all around to improve the ride over OE; not sure that's what I'll get (will try softest first) but it sounds it from what folks are saying. Good luck but I wouldn't touch the front, the car has got too much OE rake now and that rear ww gap is an embarrasment IMO. (Lowered mine the night I brought it home so no one would see that.)
click on thumbnail...
[IMG]local://upfiles/24316/B693446105D340D09DF37EB43ABD5744.jpg[/IMG]
12-02-2006, 06:31 PM
#5
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RE: Questions about lowering and suspension
Nope; if you want the nicest ride don't drop the front. Look at a number of stangs that have just lowered the rear and given where you live I think you will agree. ...put the cost of lowering the front into a set of Tokico D-Specs.
12-02-2006, 06:43 PM
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RE: Questions about lowering and suspension
12-02-2006, 07:16 PM
#8
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RE: Questions about lowering and suspension
Adj panhard bar is for rear, to replace OE bar if you need to center axle side to side so your tires will be positioned the same (left to right; right to left) in the wheelwell. Stangs off the dealer lot are typically off a bit; you should measure (easy and quick to do) before you begin. ...to see where you are staring from. If you need to adjust after you install rear coils and remeasure, then order a panhard bar; several mfg have them; I have BMR, quality is top notch. ...some guys say they didn't need one so measure and don't waste your money if you don't need to. (I wanted mine exact so I went with one)
12-02-2006, 07:23 PM
#9
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RE: Questions about lowering and suspension
CrazyAl: Thanks, all good info! I haven't experienced any driveline vibration, clunking (especially during shifting) but I don't race the car and I wouldn't notice increased wear on pinion bearings and driveshaft joints until it was too late, so LCA'a are on my list with D-Specs for the spring; so I would follow that advice.
CrazyAl: Question for ya... now after lowering the rear say between an 1" and 1.25". The pinion angle is changed because the trans has been lowered? (by something less than the 1" and 1.25") but enough to change the angle significantly enough? Can you just briefly elaborate on this? Thanks, Jim
"When you lower the car you change the pinion angle in the rear. You need either an adjustable upper control arm or adjustable lower control arms (which I suggest) to fix this. If you don't fix it, you will have driveline vibration, clunking (especially during shifting) and also increased wear on your pinion bearings and driveshaft joints.
To do the job right you should get the LCA's FIRST, or at the same time you do the lowering."
CrazyAl: Question for ya... now after lowering the rear say between an 1" and 1.25". The pinion angle is changed because the trans has been lowered? (by something less than the 1" and 1.25") but enough to change the angle significantly enough? Can you just briefly elaborate on this? Thanks, Jim
"When you lower the car you change the pinion angle in the rear. You need either an adjustable upper control arm or adjustable lower control arms (which I suggest) to fix this. If you don't fix it, you will have driveline vibration, clunking (especially during shifting) and also increased wear on your pinion bearings and driveshaft joints.
To do the job right you should get the LCA's FIRST, or at the same time you do the lowering."
12-02-2006, 07:39 PM
#10
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RE: Questions about lowering and suspension
Lowering any vehicle decreases the amount of suspension travel, ok so that's not completely true, but you will always have less distance before you hit the ground. The cushy ride of the stock suspension is forfeited somewhat in order to keep the bottom of your car from hitting the ground or to keep the suspension from running out of travel, that's why lowering springs are stiffer.
If you really want to keep the ride as comfortable as possible then use the springs that provide the least amount of drop. The roush springs or steeda springs should work nicely and give you the most comfortable ride. To make it look like it's lower than it really is you could buy tires slightly taller than stock when you need new ones.
If you really want to keep the ride as comfortable as possible then use the springs that provide the least amount of drop. The roush springs or steeda springs should work nicely and give you the most comfortable ride. To make it look like it's lower than it really is you could buy tires slightly taller than stock when you need new ones.
