GT Premi

[/align][/align]I've lowered my car and haven't adjusted anything. It's been overa year and a half with no problems. Didn't even get an alignment done. I can see just a tad of negative camber, but no abnormal wear on the tires. And I haven't had any problems with the driveline that I know of. Although lately I've been getting a bit of that rearend whine that a lot of folks are getting whether their car is lowered or not.[/align]

STANMAN

So, when do us Mustangforumerer's get a discount code to punch in??

Stewart

I get vibration at 75+ from my driveshaft. I did lower my car, could this be attributed to a pinion angle that needs to be corrected? Or if it's due to pinion angle should it be apparent at any speed? Thanks.

awakeinAZ

Ah, now I understand! Thanks!!!!!

spyder7724

i make between $40-70 on each one guys. i'm not doing this to send my kids to harvard preschool or something. what i do is add up all the costs and tack on about $50 for my time and gas. here's a breakdown.
$499
-$30 for ebay and paypal
-$35 bolts and companion flange
-$25-40 shipping to me(they have come from all over the US)
-$95 to cut and rebalance
-$260-315 for each new ranger shaft(they are no longer in the FRPP catalog which sold them for $220)
as you can see many others make more than me during the process. i've tried to get the driveline shop to cut me a break but they won't so thats about it. they are reliable and i have yet to have a problem so thats why i continue to use them.
stewart and all you other guys who have lowered your cars really need to get an adjustable UCA. the car will hook better and it will eliminate any clearance/ vibrationissues with a 1 piece driveshaft no matter which one you decide to go with.
guys i'm not in the driveshaft business i've just gotten so many emails of late i decided to build a few since many of you guys don't have access to a shop that can shorten and reweld aluminum.
this is why i don't warranty these things. there aren't many racing/performance parts that are warranteed against breakage. all i can give you is the stats i have so far. that is: to my knowledge there have been no failures and so far no one has complained about a major increase in NVH.
some people are skeptical of everything and impossible to pleaseso this isn't for them. as with any performance item you run the risk of changing the vehicles characteristics. if you like a smooth quiet perfect factory stock ride then ....don't mess with the car.
if you have gear whine now it may increase that. that is not the fault of the driveshaft. it is just allowing the scope of the problem to heard and not masked by hydro bushings and cv joints. ford has a problem with these cars and did a bunch of stuff to counteract NVH. the 45lb. two piece terd is a good example of the lengths they went to for ride quality and comfort.

i hope this helps clear up some stuff. as long as i don't get "shafted"(hehehe) by anyonei'll keep on helping you guys out and keep the price as low as possible.

awakeinAZ

Sounds reasoneable, will try to pick one up in the next few weeks. Can you PM or post the installion instructions. I don't have a NASCAR tool box filled with tools and don't want to get in over my head.

Thx!

spyder7724

it's really easy. the only thing you may need to get is a puller to remove the stock companion flange(yoke). i used a hammer to lightly persuade mine but i really don't advise any of you to try this. i was trying to do mine as quickly as possible to get back to the track that day to test 1/4 mile times before and after. autozone and advanced rent these for a few dollars. heres the installation instructions. it really is that easy.
Instructions for installing aluminum driveshaft in [/b]
2005-2007 Mustang GT[/b]

1. Remove stock driveshaft by removing the 6 bolts (these are not needed for the new shaft, discard or keep with old shaft)[/i] on the rear companion flange, remove 4 bolts (save these you will need them later)[/i] on the front companion flange and the 2 nuts (not needed anymore)[/i] [/i]holding the carrier bearing support to the chassis. Next you will need to remove the tunnel cross brace (It’s the U shaped tube above the exhaust towards the front of the car. See picture B[/i])[/i] by loosening the 2 nuts (save these you will need them to reinstall later)[/i] that fasten it to the floor pan.
2. The cross brace will slide out to the side between the exhaust pipe and floor tunnel with some creative twisting and turning. The driveshaft will slide out towards the back, again take your time it will come out but the carrier support needs some help to get between the exhaust. It takes very little effort for this to happen.
3. Remove the pinion nut (keep this nut)[/i] that holds the companion flange to the pinion gear. You may need a gear puller or some device to extract the flange from the gear splines.
4. Install new flange on splines and push as far as possible by hand. Install pinion nut with loctite and tighten to manufacturers specs. [/i](There are many different opinions on the way this is to be done I recommend just using Fords bearing preload procedure. There should be a copy of that as well attached.)[/i] Do this quickly so not to lose too much gear oil.
5. Place new driveshaft in the tunnel from the same direction the old one came out. Make sure the slip joint is towards the front of the car.

Line up the front bolt holes and make sure the front flange is seated properly first, then install the 4 bolts and tighten to 76ft.lbs (saved from step 1).[/i] Remember this driveshaft has a slip joint so if at this point it seems too short or too long you can adjust it. Shorten the shaft a few inches when installing then extend it to mate with the front and rear flanges. Tighten all bolts to the manufacturer’s specs. ( 76ft.lbs)[/i]. Repeat this procedure for the rear companion flange bolts. (use the 4 new bolts included with kit).[/i]
Reinstall the tunnel cross brace.
Start car put on seat belt and go![/ol]

4LITER6

Hello Spyder,
I am swapping out my 7.5 from my V6 ride......for a 8.8 GT take off.........................now the flange you are offering looks like the flange from the V6 7.5 rear..............if this is the case, us V6 users would not need the flange from your kit...................just wondering if the flange is the same.....E9TZ-4851-A anyway just looking at all angles.......

Cheers!!!

Oh, Happy New Year!!!!

[sm=icon_cheers.gif]

spyder7724

that is the same # flange. it's also #'d M4851B by FRPP. doesn't the V6 have a one piece steel shaft? or it was supposed to i thought. if not you guys would pick up a ton with one of those in there. it seems to make a bigger difference the less power you have to start with. like with my car, it was stock save for the canned lidio SCT tune. and it made a 2 tenthof a second reductionin 1/4 mile times. if the V6 cars have a 45lb driveshaft it would kill that little engine at low speed.

vack75

Spyder,

I'm very interested in your Drive Shaft. I was wondering if you could email more information on it, including turn around time, installation, etc etc. I've been researching a few others includign the Carbon Fiber Shaft and the steel one piece, however yours seems lighter and may be better suited for the monies spent.

Thanks,
Jason

vack@atlanticbb.net