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swirl marks!

Old 01-09-2007, 03:43 PM
  #11  
bradzpony
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Default RE: swirl marks!

Yes, Dawn the dish soap, which is what the instructions for Zaino said to do in order to remove old wax.
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Old 01-10-2007, 07:14 AM
  #12  
Orion_240
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Default RE: swirl marks!

ORIGINAL: sowaxeman

When you are all done, put the mit and any micor fibers in the washer and wash/dry them separate with NOTHING else. While all of this seems overly **** and time consuming (it really isn't) it is the method I have used on my S-281 for nearly 2 years and I have YET to have to clay or polish my finish - it is still showroom swirl-free

And while your are at it, if you use a car cover you need to keep the underside CLEAN. Don't wad it up and throw it on the ground or in the trunk. Roll it up nice and even and put it in a strage bag.

All these simple "ounces of prevention" will go a long way in protecting your finish.
Has anyone else noticed that you almost have to wash your microfiber towels seperate from the regular cotton towels? If I wash my rags together the micros pick up bits from the cottons!
Also, I park under my apartment so my car is covered but still open to the alley. If I cover my car all night each day it get's pretty dirty and I'll actually have to wash the car cover BEFORE I'll need to wash my car! Windy conditions and forest fires don't help any!
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Old 01-10-2007, 07:31 AM
  #13  
mygt500
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Default RE: swirl marks!

A shammy is fine but microfiber is better. Never go in a circular motion with any towel for drying. Start at the top and work your way down saving the wheels for last. For example drag the microfiber towel from the top of the hood (near windshield) than on down to the front of the hood. I recommend clayin the car once every 6 months or once a year to remove contaminents before polishing and waxing. I personally only use meguiars products as they work great for me and my black GT. All polishes if they are true polishes remove a small amt of clearcoat to get rid of the scratches...they are also known as rubbing compounds. If you are concerned about doing it yourself than I would get a pro to do it and get a quote stating that all swirl marks will get removed and not covered up. I know when I detail a car for show I look to get orange peel and swirls and spider webbing out (not covered up) as well as any other imperfection out and it takes a great deal of time and costs alot. So yes a polish will remove the swirls and the wax protects the finish. Most liquid waxes including the Gold Class wax last only 1-3 months depending on where you live, age of paint, etc. hope this helps
ORIGINAL: NickSezz

A good car polish and wax should do the job. When drying the car, instead of using a regular old rag, it is a good idea to use a shammy. They don't leave marks as easily. Some people recommend claybaring the car before the polish and wax.
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Old 01-10-2007, 07:34 AM
  #14  
mygt500
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Default RE: swirl marks!

I agree get a porter cable (brand name) D/A polisher and pads. This will help greatly. I wax by hand but polish with a D/A (dual action) polisher. The web sites mentioned below in the quote!
ORIGINAL: Stickman81

Is the entire car swirled or just certain areas?

You can correct minor defects with a random orbital (or rotary) machine and proper products.
Correction to an entire car by hand will take LOTS of time andwill probably not yield the results which you seek and in the end will be futile.
You can have someone correct it for you.

Most correction products are designed to work with a machine using heat from the pad surface to break down the abrasive products.
Any other OTC products will only hide, or, make them less noticable.

Sorry you had bad luck with Zaino. Personally that is one of my favorites.

The garage lighting, especially if florescent lighting, will really amplify the defects.

Also, consider revisiting your wash techniques.
Here are a couple of examples. There are certainly more available.

How to wash your car from Autopia.

How to wash your car from Detail City.



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Old 01-10-2007, 07:37 AM
  #15  
mygt500
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Default RE: swirl marks!

Yes it states it on many websites and the microfiber towels themselves....do not wash with cottons and wash them separately. Dry without a fabric softner in the dryer. The microfiber will attract all the lint from the cottons and there is a possibility that dryer sheets can cause fine swirls.
ORIGINAL: Orion_240

ORIGINAL: sowaxeman

When you are all done, put the mit and any micor fibers in the washer and wash/dry them separate with NOTHING else. While all of this seems overly **** and time consuming (it really isn't) it is the method I have used on my S-281 for nearly 2 years and I have YET to have to clay or polish my finish - it is still showroom swirl-free

And while your are at it, if you use a car cover you need to keep the underside CLEAN. Don't wad it up and throw it on the ground or in the trunk. Roll it up nice and even and put it in a strage bag.

All these simple "ounces of prevention" will go a long way in protecting your finish.
Has anyone else noticed that you almost have to wash your microfiber towels seperate from the regular cotton towels? If I wash my rags together the micros pick up bits from the cottons!
Also, I park under my apartment so my car is covered but still open to the alley. If I cover my car all night each day it get's pretty dirty and I'll actually have to wash the car cover BEFORE I'll need to wash my car! Windy conditions and forest fires don't help any!
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Old 01-10-2007, 11:29 AM
  #16  
BlackPhantomGT
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Default RE: swirl marks!

Use several microfiber towels when drying. I may use a dozen or more each time.Don't throw 'em on the ground when done. Put them in a clean plastic box or something and take them straight to the washer when done. They don't last forever either, you'll need tobuy new onesfrom time to time.

I've had good luck with the California blades too. I've found the 11" at Target for $1.99ea and bought several. Most other places want $15 ea.
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Old 01-11-2007, 01:15 PM
  #17  
sowaxeman
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Default RE: swirl marks!

I have 10 microfibers in my detail bag that stays in the trunk of my S-281. Some are "stained" more than others as I use them for various things. The clean ones are for the paint, and the dirtier ones are for the wheels, interior, etc.. At the end of the season, they come of the bag and go into my "garage towel" cabinet and I get all new ones for the next season. Keep them in a bag or something similar, wash them SEPERATELY as mentioned, and never use one on your paint that hasn't been washed after previous use. Again, every ounce of protection will help
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