CHE or BMR
01-26-2007, 07:33 PM
#13
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
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Posts: 3,758
RE: CHE or BMR
ORIGINAL: likemike99
do the torque limiters attach to the k-member? reason is if you want torque limiters do you have to get the che k-member or can you use the torque limiters with the stock or bmr k-member? thanks
do the torque limiters attach to the k-member? reason is if you want torque limiters do you have to get the che k-member or can you use the torque limiters with the stock or bmr k-member? thanks
01-26-2007, 07:39 PM
#14
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Join Date: Mar 2006
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Posts: 2,544
RE: CHE or BMR
CHE's "torque limiter" setup is just a K-member brace which has extra brackets on it.
You can indeed use the CHE brace with a BMR K-member. The CHEsetup is a bar thatfits across the open end of the "K" joining those two parts together. The brackets that are on it hold the actual torque limiters that go up to the transmission.
However, I don't know why you would want to do that. If you have the BMR K-member I would assume that you are running it with either BMR's built-in motor mounts or an aftermarket set of mounts like the Bullets. If so, the CHE brace won't really do anything for you. The motor mounts will already keep your driveline movement under control.
You can indeed use the CHE brace with a BMR K-member. The CHEsetup is a bar thatfits across the open end of the "K" joining those two parts together. The brackets that are on it hold the actual torque limiters that go up to the transmission.
However, I don't know why you would want to do that. If you have the BMR K-member I would assume that you are running it with either BMR's built-in motor mounts or an aftermarket set of mounts like the Bullets. If so, the CHE brace won't really do anything for you. The motor mounts will already keep your driveline movement under control.
01-26-2007, 08:37 PM
#17
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 2,179
RE: CHE or BMR
ORIGINAL: CrazyAl
The BMR UCA mount is great, but I wouldn't buy one for a typical daily driver.
I'd get one if you had a high HP setup (FI or nitrous),if you drag raced a lot, or if you could afford it and you simply wanted to get the best suspension possible.
On a common street caron a budget, I wouldn't get one. You have to draw the line somewhere.
The BMR UCA mount is great, but I wouldn't buy one for a typical daily driver.
I'd get one if you had a high HP setup (FI or nitrous),if you drag raced a lot, or if you could afford it and you simply wanted to get the best suspension possible.
On a common street caron a budget, I wouldn't get one. You have to draw the line somewhere.
Richard
01-26-2007, 08:47 PM
#18
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Join Date: Mar 2006
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Posts: 2,544
RE: CHE or BMR
ORIGINAL: 06GT4RAD
Car is not a daily driver but more a fair weather car for us. Spending the money on it is not an issue if it makes an improvement. Thanks for the info. I just figure if your going to do it then get all that is needed and do it right. I figure with it being lowred and all I might as well upgrade the stock parts to make it all work better together.
Car is not a daily driver but more a fair weather car for us. Spending the money on it is not an issue if it makes an improvement. Thanks for the info. I just figure if your going to do it then get all that is needed and do it right. I figure with it being lowred and all I might as well upgrade the stock parts to make it all work better together.
so new motor mounts provide the same stiffness as the torquelimiters? I can't imagine they are that stiff.
01-26-2007, 09:44 PM
#19
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location:
Posts: 585
RE: CHE or BMR
ORIGINAL: CrazyAl
The BMR UCA mount is great, but I wouldn't buy one for a typical daily driver.
I'd get one if you had a high HP setup (FI or nitrous),if you drag raced a lot, or if you could afford it and you simply wanted to get the best suspension possible.
On a common street caron a budget, I wouldn't get one. You have to draw the line somewhere.
The BMR UCA mount is great, but I wouldn't buy one for a typical daily driver.
I'd get one if you had a high HP setup (FI or nitrous),if you drag raced a lot, or if you could afford it and you simply wanted to get the best suspension possible.
On a common street caron a budget, I wouldn't get one. You have to draw the line somewhere.
Cheers!
01-27-2007, 12:31 AM
#20
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Fenton, MO.
Posts: 645
RE: CHE or BMR
ORIGINAL: CrazyAl
A quick comment about suspension parts and noise:
If you hear a "clunking", "banging" or "rattling" sound then something is either broken or installed wrong. NO suspension parts, even the full-on race parts with nothing other than rod-ends will do this when properly installed. These kind of sounds mean that something is dreadfully amiss--either a part has failed or there is a loose bolt or some other installation error.
What you WILL hear from suspension parts is an increase in road noise. Road noise isn't clunking or banging. Road noise is a constant, steady, "static" or "hiss" type of sound. You know the sound that any car makes when you drive over gravel on the road? THAT is the kind of sound that stiffer suspension parts will make. It shouldn't be as loud as driving over a gravel road, but that is a good example of the type of sound involved.
In this case, there is a DIRECT correlaction between the firmness of the suspension and the degree of sound that is made. The firmer (better) the suspension parts are, the louder they are. This is becuse stiffness of the suspension parts is what allows road noise to be transmitted. The firmer the parts are, the more noise is conducted into the body of the car. Parts like LCAs do not make road noise. They do, however, allow it to be transmitted from the rear axle into the body of the car.
If Car A is quieter than Car B, and there are no failed parts or improper installs on either car, then Car B will have a stiffer suspension.
I hesitate to use the word "Better" suspension becasue this depends on what your goals are. On a daily driver, a stiffer suspension isn't always "better" because it may be too loud for comfort. However, firmer (louder) parts are better from a performance point of view.
That being said, BMR--like many other brands--make different grades of parts for different applications.
The poly-poly control armsare a little stiffer than stock, and consequently they are only a little louder than stock. Most people wouldn't even notice the increased road noise.
The poly-heim combo parts are stiffer still, and they are also a little louder. I recommend these becasue most people won't find the extra noise objectionable--and at the same time they are a lot stiffer than OEM, and the heim joints offer much better pivoting than poly bushings. These parts are great because while they are only slightly louder than the above type, they offer much better performance.
The double-heim type (rod ends on both ends) are of course the stiffest possible, they have the best pivoting, but they are also very loud becasue there is no damping material at all in them. These would be used whenver the extra noise is not a problem.
ORIGINAL: Timmay!!!
BMR makes some great pieces and I wouldn't hesitate to use them even though I'm not convinced that their Poly/rod end LCAs are completely quiet.
BMR makes some great pieces and I wouldn't hesitate to use them even though I'm not convinced that their Poly/rod end LCAs are completely quiet.
If you hear a "clunking", "banging" or "rattling" sound then something is either broken or installed wrong. NO suspension parts, even the full-on race parts with nothing other than rod-ends will do this when properly installed. These kind of sounds mean that something is dreadfully amiss--either a part has failed or there is a loose bolt or some other installation error.
What you WILL hear from suspension parts is an increase in road noise. Road noise isn't clunking or banging. Road noise is a constant, steady, "static" or "hiss" type of sound. You know the sound that any car makes when you drive over gravel on the road? THAT is the kind of sound that stiffer suspension parts will make. It shouldn't be as loud as driving over a gravel road, but that is a good example of the type of sound involved.
In this case, there is a DIRECT correlaction between the firmness of the suspension and the degree of sound that is made. The firmer (better) the suspension parts are, the louder they are. This is becuse stiffness of the suspension parts is what allows road noise to be transmitted. The firmer the parts are, the more noise is conducted into the body of the car. Parts like LCAs do not make road noise. They do, however, allow it to be transmitted from the rear axle into the body of the car.
If Car A is quieter than Car B, and there are no failed parts or improper installs on either car, then Car B will have a stiffer suspension.
I hesitate to use the word "Better" suspension becasue this depends on what your goals are. On a daily driver, a stiffer suspension isn't always "better" because it may be too loud for comfort. However, firmer (louder) parts are better from a performance point of view.
That being said, BMR--like many other brands--make different grades of parts for different applications.
The poly-poly control armsare a little stiffer than stock, and consequently they are only a little louder than stock. Most people wouldn't even notice the increased road noise.
The poly-heim combo parts are stiffer still, and they are also a little louder. I recommend these becasue most people won't find the extra noise objectionable--and at the same time they are a lot stiffer than OEM, and the heim joints offer much better pivoting than poly bushings. These parts are great because while they are only slightly louder than the above type, they offer much better performance.
The double-heim type (rod ends on both ends) are of course the stiffest possible, they have the best pivoting, but they are also very loud becasue there is no damping material at all in them. These would be used whenver the extra noise is not a problem.
Nice right up.
I have the poly to poly adj. CHE LCA's and relocation brackets.
The CHE LCA on the drivers side, when coming to a stop makes a "knock" sound, like if you took your knuckle and knocked on a table.
I've had it checked many times and the bolts tightened again and again. Finally my speed shop guy put some lock-tite on the bolts (on the LCA) worked alright for about a day. The knock came back.
I finally gave up and ordered Steedas poly to poly non adj LCA's they are due in next week.
We have checked everything under the car for anything that might/could come loose.
I hear about guys not having any problems with the CHE's so for the last couple of months I have been looking elsewhere under the car (drivers side) for loose stuff.
Its a real aggravating sound. I hope the non adj steeda's work.
Thanks man.