Cast Iron Block v.s. Just Internals
#1
Cast Iron Block v.s. Just Internals
Since I plan to do this build "right" with blower etc... I wanted to know if an entirecast ironblock is necessary or the stock 4.6 block with forged internals. If anyone has experience with this set up let me know your thoughts. Where online can I get these parts?
#4
RE: Forged Block v.s. Just Internals
I'm hearing the same numbers for HP on the stock aluminum block. You can add a stud girdle to help stabilize the bottom end. DSS sells a nice one. http://www.dssracing.com/ Unfortunately, I went to their website ant the link to the girdle was broken??
There is nothing wrong with aluminum blocks, they hold up to 8000 HP in a top fuel engine...
BTW, there is no such thing as a "forged" block--aluminum, cast iron, and the odd-ball magnesium is all I've heard of.
There is nothing wrong with aluminum blocks, they hold up to 8000 HP in a top fuel engine...
BTW, there is no such thing as a "forged" block--aluminum, cast iron, and the odd-ball magnesium is all I've heard of.
#5
RE: Forged Block v.s. Just Internals
Sorry, I didn't mean "forged" block. It would be a cast iron block with forged internals. I am hoping to eventually do 6-800 HP. If the stock block would work and be lighter than that may be the way to go. [/align][/align]Any thoughts on cost of install between the new block v.s. just internals?[/align]
#6
RE: Forged Block v.s. Just Internals
Some vendors sell aluminum block short-block assemblies for an additional cost. I think $800 or so?
It would be cheaper to just buy the parts, but then if you had to have a speed/machine job put it together, your savings would be diluted to saving the shipping for a heavier block assembly.
If you bought the whole assembly pre-assembled, block and allyou only have one person to deal with if there are problems (saving the blame game) and most major vendors have consistent quality. If you have a local shop do the assembly, be careful. Maybe ask for customer references as well. There is a LOT of variability out there. If you are in a local club, ask folks who they recommend.
It would be cheaper to just buy the parts, but then if you had to have a speed/machine job put it together, your savings would be diluted to saving the shipping for a heavier block assembly.
If you bought the whole assembly pre-assembled, block and allyou only have one person to deal with if there are problems (saving the blame game) and most major vendors have consistent quality. If you have a local shop do the assembly, be careful. Maybe ask for customer references as well. There is a LOT of variability out there. If you are in a local club, ask folks who they recommend.
#7
RE: Forged Block v.s. Just Internals
You have some good points that I thought of also. It may be "safer" to go with a complete kit say MMR and it is only around $800 more than just internals. I have a local guy that is very reputable, he works on 1000+ HP cars all the time. I think MMRhas free shipping also.[/align]
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