runstang22

as for the comment above, the shaker 1000 cannot replace the 500 directly. You must replace the head unit because their is an extra connector output from the head unit on the 1000 that sends signal to the Sub. My question is this: I didn't really understand when you were talking about the amp always being on - how connect it so that the amp is not constantly draining the battery even when the car is off? Is there a throwover relay you installed or a setting on your amp?

CreekMustang

Great post BTW!

We're installing an amp and sub into a 2007 V6 Mustang with a Shaker 500. Does anyone know what this pigtail connector is for in the trunk? I'm wondering if it is for an upgrade to Shaker 1000 and could be used to tap into the speaker signal.

simplemansfaith@gmail.com

First of all...Wow!
Very nice instructions. Pictures help even better. Very...very nice work my friend.
Thanks for making it easy for all Mustang owners.
Chive on!


Art

cbird1177711

When installing the head unit, do you use the stock head unit's mounts and screw them onto the new receiver or the mounts included in the kit? It has the front piece like in my first pic, but do I screw on the plastic piece to the side of the head unit as well or use the stock one? Or does anyone know of a thread with pics or instructions of how to connect the dash kit to the head unit? Thanks!

retrop

Came here looking for a way to mount my amp, I like the idea of the wood block to fill the hole, but I'm curious if there was anything in the way for you and what size bolts you used. Pulled the carpet out real quick to look if this solution would work for me (07 Mustang V6) and I noticed there were a few wires ran around that area and there is a large metal box at the bottom that shouldn't get in the way, but I didn't see that in your pictures so I was curious if I was looking in the wrong spot.

shooter701

08'MustangDude

I doubt you need "0" gauge wire for the amp you're installing anyway.

If you WANT that wire, then you have to make another hole, OR?

You need to shave the front down to like a pencil, with a blunt end on it.
Then, use silicone spray to get it through, then while pulling it, keep
lubricating the insulation... 0 gauge is overkill, your electrical system
would not even handle an amp that would require a wire that thick.
That hole will stretch some, so you need silicone spray to slide it
through, IF that will even work. If not, go with 4 gauge.

2 gauge can handle 150 amps over 14-22 feet...

For your application? 8 gauge to 14 feet, or 4 gauge beyond 14 feet, for an
amplifier requiring 65-86 amps. You can still get away with 8 gauge from the
engine bay to the trunk, for 50-80 amps.

Also, the wire may be small, and with the insulation be 0-gauge, they fool you
sometimes. 0 gauge means the wire strand is that size, not the wire including
the thickness of the insulation. I have seen wire that is an 8th of an inch round,
with a 1/4" of insulation around it, and they say it's 8 gauge... No, the wire is like 12
gauge with a ton of insulation.

shooter701

Thanks you for the info! I will look to use 4 gauge instead of the 0 gauge that I purchased.

I plan to run the door speakers off of a 4ch 1000Watt amp. The door speakers that I have are Kicker CS 68 2-75 Watt RMS (225W Max). I plan to use the other 950 Watt 2 ch amp to power the sub. I would like to have only used one Amp but neither of the Amps I have would be capable of doing so.

If I purchase a 4 gauge wiring kit, will 8 gauge be fine to use to power the door speakers with the 1000 Watt 4 ch amp? I assume so and yes I understand it may be a bit over kill but its what I already have.


Thanks!

08'MustangDude

I used all 8 gauge on another project before, it was fine. I ran a 4GA main to a block, then
two 8GA outs to the two amps. You should be fine. One amp was 1000watt 4 channels,
and a 600 watt 4 channel. The 1000 ran the deck and two subs. The 600 ran the dash
with two channels open.