ohnoesaz

This is Summitracing's no-name in-house rear sway bar. It was $200 after shipping, or close to that. Yes, you can get the Steeda for like $160 shipped, but im not so sure the Steeda included all of this hardware. You check it out.

Big and heavy. +7lbs about over stock. Not a bad thing, since replacing other parts in the rear has dropped more weight than I wanted off of the rear. 25-26mm, Stock is what, 18? Progressive's cheap bar is good too, and is like 20mm. At 25.5ishmm this bar is bigger than bmr, steeda, GT500, etc etc.

All the hardware. Bushings, ends, andthose little things that go from the bar up to the chassis.

End result: Nice. Tires keep slipping obvisouly as theyre stock, but the rear end stays with the alignment of the car non stop. No more swaying in corners or hard to one side during a slip recovery.

If anyone wants a good prescription for road course fun... Replace the LCAs, rear sway, and tires. (I did panhard and panhard brace also, but I won't give that credit like the others.)

Im doing front arm bushings and front sway bushings next week....

RodeoFlyer

That's not enough prescription

Bigger isn't always better. Considering that a swaybar reduces traction, you should only have enough to keep the car neutral. For the average street/autocross driver, a rear only is great and gets rid of some plowing. For a road course car it's better to get both adjustable and dial in only what you need.

Jizz

Just because the tube is bigger does not mean the wall thickness isthicker.

I will look in to it... Thanks for the info! Being that I am looking to stiffen my Vert up a bit