Whipple Supercharger Installation - Major Issues UPDATED W/ PICS
#11
RE: Whipple Supercharger Installation - Major Issues
i know the metal is fairly soft, i was surprised how
easily i was able to hack saw through it. i had mine
off and was holding it in my hand
good luck with it and your whipple brothers are here to
help ya
easily i was able to hack saw through it. i had mine
off and was holding it in my hand
good luck with it and your whipple brothers are here to
help ya
#12
RE: Whipple Supercharger Installation - Major Issues
Well, thanks to everyone who posted a reply. I called and spoke with Art Whipple about my coolant loss issue, and his immediate response was to send in the supercharger and intercooler system
Upon removing the supercharger from the intake manifold, you can see where the coolant was disappearing too.
I think it's reasonable to believe that coolant leaking into the intake manifold would be the reason for my "major problems" as posted originally. Can someone chime in and offer a confirmation that coolant burning off in the engine would have some effect on the PCM?
Upon removing the supercharger from the intake manifold, you can see where the coolant was disappearing too.
I think it's reasonable to believe that coolant leaking into the intake manifold would be the reason for my "major problems" as posted originally. Can someone chime in and offer a confirmation that coolant burning off in the engine would have some effect on the PCM?
#14
RE: Whipple Supercharger Installation - Major Issues
ORIGINAL: redbullet
Coolant will foul the plugs, clean the chamber and piston tops and kill the O2's and cats.
Coolant will foul the plugs, clean the chamber and piston tops and kill the O2's and cats.
#16
RE: Whipple Supercharger Installation - Major Issues
The sparks plugs look fine. The 2 plugs near the back of the engine (1 on each side) seemed to have a little something (not really gunk), but not anything comparable to the fuel injectors in the pic. The best way I can describe it is more like carbon buildup on a used spark plug, nothing to excessive, and barely noticeable. Also, only 2 injectors, the same ones located in the back of the engine were caked.
Also, to those interested, I had originally added a bottle of Water Wetter to the intercooler tank per the Whipple installation manual.
Also, to those interested, I had originally added a bottle of Water Wetter to the intercooler tank per the Whipple installation manual.
#17
RE: Whipple Supercharger Installation - Major Issues
interesting, thanks for the reply.
i'm sure whipple will take care of you.....everything
is gonna be fine and you'll be back on the
road in a week or two
i'm sure whipple will take care of you.....everything
is gonna be fine and you'll be back on the
road in a week or two
ORIGINAL: sechmura
The sparks plugs look fine. The 2 plugs near the back of the engine (1 on each side) seemed to have a little something (not really gunk), but not anything comparable to the fuel injectors in the pic. The best way I can describe it is more like carbon buildup on a used spark plug, nothing to excessive, and barely noticeable. Also, only 2 injectors, the same ones located in the back of the engine were caked.
Also, to those interested, I had originally added a bottle of Water Wetter to the intercooler tank per the Whipple installation manual.
The sparks plugs look fine. The 2 plugs near the back of the engine (1 on each side) seemed to have a little something (not really gunk), but not anything comparable to the fuel injectors in the pic. The best way I can describe it is more like carbon buildup on a used spark plug, nothing to excessive, and barely noticeable. Also, only 2 injectors, the same ones located in the back of the engine were caked.
Also, to those interested, I had originally added a bottle of Water Wetter to the intercooler tank per the Whipple installation manual.
#19
RE: Whipple Supercharger Installation - Major Issues
ORIGINAL: sechmura
Whipple recommends removing the stop tab with a cutting tool, but since you ask, I did it using a screwdriver and hammer. I'll take a good look at the tensioner tomorrow when the lights better. When I'm experiencing the problems per my original post, I did notice the tensioner wobbling around. It seems to be okay when the engine is running fine.
Whipple recommends removing the stop tab with a cutting tool, but since you ask, I did it using a screwdriver and hammer. I'll take a good look at the tensioner tomorrow when the lights better. When I'm experiencing the problems per my original post, I did notice the tensioner wobbling around. It seems to be okay when the engine is running fine.
The belt coming off is by no means normal, something must be missaligned or stuck, I have the 3.125"12 psi pulley and had no slippage until I had the engine "professionally" cleaned and the morons sprayed WD40 all over, after cleanning the belt ad pulleyswith alcohol the slippage is gone again.
Obviously if the IC is leakingcoolant there is something wrong with the unit and must be fixed by whipple granted it was not an installation problem.
As per the code, every now and then I get a code when I start the engine in the morningbecause the mixture is too rich (I can tell by the smell of the fumes, and the engine hesitates if I accelerate the engine during the first minute or sobefore it warms up, and it is by doing so that I get the code) The mixture at start up when cold is supposed to be richer but never threw a code before, I erase the code with the tuner and no codes until I repeat the above process.
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