cryptic26djp

Good call on the stop tab, Hammeron. I was thinking the same thing when I logged on a few minutes ago and started reading this thread from the beginning. I used, and recommend, that you use a dremmel tool to cut that tab off. That is how I did mine and you can use the disk wheels to make a nice flat/smooth surface. Something must be misaligned to cause the belt to slip like that. I checked mine three or four times when I put the final torque on the tension bolt.

This is the first I have heard about the resevoir and leakage. What types of symptoms would this put out?? What the hell could be causing this problem?

Scotte28516

This is the perfect example of why it's good to spend the extra money to have it installed the right way the first time if you're not experienced in these installs. Removing a tab with a screwdriver??? You may as well install it with pliers! Half assed installs get half assed results!

cryptic26djp

Hey Scotte28516, what PSI are you running your kit on? I like the numbers..... mine is in the shop right now getting the custom tune.

sechmura

Please remember that my original post was only to pose the question as to the possibility of belt slip. It's obvious from my pictures that my "Major Issues" were associated with a defect in the heat exchanger under the compressor. I could have installed the supercharger on a kitchen table, and the leak would have still been present.

And as far as the stop tab removal, it broke clean off. If you've followed the post, I seriously doubt the stop tab has any relation to any of my problems at this point. Granted, it may not have been the best approach, but my $6000 supercharger was still leaking coolant into the intake manifold.

Belt slip and stop tabs aside, Whipple sent me a bad product.

cryptic26djp

Yeah, his comment was probably not needed as everyone knows you didnt use the best means available to remove the stop tab. You said it broke off clean - so, no harm no foul.

However, he was commenting on your initial post - your pictures did not come until a later time. Initially you mentioned that you were on your third belt (that seems like a problem to me). The comments to follow (i.e. stop tab) was in regards to that specific issue and troubleshooting.

Sorry to hear that you got a bad product from Whipple and I hope it gets resolved immediately! There is nothing worse than spending $6k+ and all the man hours to install a product just to determine you got a lunk of crap from them. It happens....unfortunately.....but it does.

Any word from Whipple as to why it was leaking in the first place?? Keep us posted!

sechmura

Whipple wont receive the parts until Tuesday. Originally, Art Whipple suggested that the supplier should have pressure tested the compressor and intercooler system that runs through it. They most likely didn't. Mr. Whipple also said that a failure like this isn't very common.

On another note, I told Art Whipple that I was considering an 8 rib kit to solve any belt slip issues (that is if I was having belt slip at all). He was pretty adamant that there was no belt slip, and that an 8 rib kit was unnecessary. He said a boost gauge would help, since it would show if/when there was belt slip. In the end, he said he'd send me a smaller pulley, idler, and belt for all my trouble. Additional horsepower and it still uses a 6 rib kit.

Oh, and I forgot, Art said that they would be replacing the bearings in the compressor. So, I get the impression that the coolant could/would/should have had some effect on the bearings. So, it's quite possible that my problems were a result of coolant damage to the bearings, and not belt slip.

In my defense, the installation went well, without any problems. It wasn't until the coolant loss that the problems appeared, and my knowledge of supercharger installations would have had little bearing on the problems that evolved.

cryptic26djp

When you order your boost gauge - you might want to consider the wideband Air/Fuel gauge as well. I wouldn't run it without either of them. Like I said, mine is in the shop getting a custom tune right now. They are also relocating the air temp sensor to after the intercooler.

The install of these Whipple kits is fairly simple and the instructions were very detailed. I could have installed mine in two days but took a little extra time ensuring everything was clean looking. This means I had to route and re-route a few hoses until I found the cleanest look for my liking.

We werent attacking the fact that you used a screwdriver..... just be careful man. Some of these parts have minds of their own. Also, posting that on a forum could haunt you some time down the road. A lot of people read these posts and if they see that you smacked something with a hammer - you may lose out on a replacement part or hassles that you dont need.

sechmura

I apologize for those of you following this thread, as I posted some pics without an explanation. I simply confused this thread for another one on a different forum. Basically what your seeing is coolant leaking into the intake manifold. For those of you not familiar with the Whipple setup, there's a heat exchanger attached to the bottom of the compressor. Somewhere, somehow, the coolant was leaking in this location. My original post was posted with the assumption that I was experiencing belt slip. However, the problem is obviously related to the coolant leak. The coolant was caked inside the compressor, inside the intake manifold, and all the way inside the valve ports of the cylinder heads.

hammeron

2 things.....

1) it's pretty impressive the way you let the mean
comment(s) slide right past you, i generally would lash
right back with 10 times the anger......nicely done

2) i do believe you have 2 seperate issues. the coolant
issue and the belt issue. it will be interesting to find out
if the rough running engine could actually throw the belts.
just take it one issue at a time and you'll be on the road
again real soon.

Scotte28516

I'm currently at 10psi, but will be going higher after the new short block gets done.