thewarmachine

I got under the car today and shined some light up in there. The plate I have is definitely new....shiny metal with no rust at all, and I could see a slight semi-circular cut-out section, but it was not a big section. My theory is that the plate is just so thin that it acts like a guitar string with tension on it and the engine is plucking it with vibrations at certain rpms. I'm going back to my old fix, which was to slide a sliced section of rubber hose over the lip behind the oilpan so that it's snugly stuck between the oilpan and the infamous plate. This should keep the resonance down.

UberHax0r

sorry to bring this back from the depths of the forum but, i have a problem.

I bought a gob of washers to make sure i had the right sizes and such, but when i got under the car this evening...i discover that those two spots...have no bolts. none. no wonder it's rattling!!!

so, does anyone happen to know the thread size/bolt size needed to fit the holes? i'd like to avoid buying lots of unnecessary bolts, but i may to do that if no one knows the size.

thanks guys!

UberHax0r

anyone?

thewarmachine

If you read earlier in this thread the bolt size is mentioned. I remember another guy not having bolts either.

imyy4u

Dude, don't even bother with bolts/washers (size = 10mm x 1.5mm thread, 3/4" long). It really won't help 99% of the time. Take it to the dealer, and have them modify the plate (the replacement plate sucks and doesn't usually fix the issue), or disassemble your car and modify the plate yourself by cutting out the section. if they already cut it, then they didn't do it right - have them call my dealership in the scan of my sheet i posted earlier in the thread. basically you need to modify it to stop the contact...a DIY is posted on page 2 or 3 of this thread i think.

OhioState87

Just wondering, would anyone happened to have saved imyy4u's print out from the dealership describing this problem? I'm talking about the one he posted in towards the beginning of this thread that doesn't show up now; it can be found here: https://mustangforums.com/forum/show...2&postcount=19

OhioState87

Anyone?

OhioState87

Look, I hate to bump this, but I NEED that print out that I'm talking about in my post above. My dealer WILL NOT fix this problem without me showing them that paper.

07musclemustang

hey guys sory to bring this back but is this the problem that is causing the vibration (kinda ratle from the trans) at 1100 rpm on accel and 3200 rpm on decel. its a PITA and makes my car sound cheap. its gotten worse recently and i wanna know if its something i can fix vrs going up agains my cheap *** PITA nothings wrong thats normal dealer who i wanna kill.

Aziraphale

Well I finally took my mustang in for this problem this week and the dealer said there was a TSB out on it (which I read here). They have done the TSB for the plate and for the A-arm but the noise persists. I'm very grateful that they can hear it and are trying really hard to fix it but if anyone has the originally scanned sheet that would certainly help. Today I gave them the number of the dealership in IL and hopefully that'll provide some insight.

On the plus side, I didn't go through any of the horror stories here of people trying to get the dealer to 1) hear it and 2) fix it. The techs said they heard it and want to fix it before giving my car back. I must say I am very happy with the dealer and how hard they are trying.

Once it is fixed, I will post any info I find out from them on what they did to fix it. Also if you're in the Northern VA area and looking for what appears to be a pretty good dealer, PM me and I'll send you the info on which one it is.