Newbie Needs Advice - Can I Handle a Supercharged GT?
03-21-2008, 03:21 AM
#23
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location:
Posts: 503
RE: Newbie Needs Advice - Can I Handle a Supercharged GT?
"Can I handle a supercharged GT?"
Sure you can...Just beready for the ***-end to break loose whenshifting hard into 2nd and 3rd. And I would'nt suggest shifting too hard throughany curves unless the car has some suspension and tire upgrades. Just take your time to get to know your car and you'll be fine. Also pay attention to the weather, cold and/or damp roads can make these cars squirrely as well...
Sure you can...Just beready for the ***-end to break loose whenshifting hard into 2nd and 3rd. And I would'nt suggest shifting too hard throughany curves unless the car has some suspension and tire upgrades. Just take your time to get to know your car and you'll be fine. Also pay attention to the weather, cold and/or damp roads can make these cars squirrely as well...
03-21-2008, 09:40 AM
#25
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location:
Posts: 2,033
RE: Newbie Needs Advice - Can I Handle a Supercharged GT?
Yeah.......... I agree with several others on here, but ratnacage.... Well..... *sigh* (Cataclysm? 
)
UCA is to correct pinion angle if you lower, LCA's are what you need to control wheel hop and fix traction issues (possibly want to add LCA relo brackets too).
The Roush is not so good, seeing that it's a Roots blower (as is the Magnacharger). Saleen also offers warranties with their stock supercharger with stock pulley/tune. The Saleen is a TWINSCREW.
As far as the difference between Saleen, Whipple, and KB - Here it is:
They are ALL twinscrews, and all will make approximately the same power - UNTIL - you hit about 15-16 PSI. Then the Saleen is all done, it can't flow enough air to feed the screws. But, on the flip side, if you go anywhere over ~10psi you need to redo the bottom end. Some also say ~450rwhp (the number I prefer to stay under), some say 10PSI, it's really all a guessing game, there is no finite breaking point. It all depends on the amount of abuse you dish out to it.
So.. Unless you plan to tear apart the engine and put in new pistons, rods, rings, and a crank, then you can choose from any of the big 3 twinscrews and be fine. If you think, at any point, for any reason, you might want to rip it all apart and go for BIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIG power, then you need either a Whipple or a KB. Between those two? The Whipple is cast aluminum, so it cools faster. The KB is.. Stainless, I think? Not sure, but it is definitely very prone to heat soak, which isn't good. Also, from everyone I've spoken to about KB, they can be a royal PITA to get on the phone. These are just observations, as I do not have a Whipple or a KB, obviously..
Which one is right for you? You decide. If you don't plan to go through the bottom end, then choose based on looks, as they'll all make about the same power with comparable modifications.
Can you handle the power? Again, as others have said, it depends on the weight of your foot. If you have a feather foot, then you won't even know it's under there. If your foot is heavy, then you'l be going through tires like it's nobody's business.
Supporting mods for s/c (not all required, but a good idea, at the least)
LCAs
LCA relo brackets
Wider wheels
Sticky rubber
One-piece driveshaft
Shifter
Clutch
If you want to lower it, then besides the springs you'll want UCA, panhard, and dampers.
The LCAs, UCA, panhard, and dampers should all be of the adjustable flavor, manufacturer at your discretion (they're all pretty good).
My personal opinion on this, is unless the Saleen is an actually Saleen CAR (not just a GT with a Saleen on it), then pass. Buy yourself either a new, base model GT, or a used, VERY low-mileage GT, and add teh supercharger yourself. Like someone else said, people don't put superchargers on cars so they can drive around at 30 MPH all day long..
Just my $.02, YMMV.
)UCA is to correct pinion angle if you lower, LCA's are what you need to control wheel hop and fix traction issues (possibly want to add LCA relo brackets too).
The Roush is not so good, seeing that it's a Roots blower (as is the Magnacharger). Saleen also offers warranties with their stock supercharger with stock pulley/tune. The Saleen is a TWINSCREW.
As far as the difference between Saleen, Whipple, and KB - Here it is:
They are ALL twinscrews, and all will make approximately the same power - UNTIL - you hit about 15-16 PSI. Then the Saleen is all done, it can't flow enough air to feed the screws. But, on the flip side, if you go anywhere over ~10psi you need to redo the bottom end. Some also say ~450rwhp (the number I prefer to stay under), some say 10PSI, it's really all a guessing game, there is no finite breaking point. It all depends on the amount of abuse you dish out to it.
So.. Unless you plan to tear apart the engine and put in new pistons, rods, rings, and a crank, then you can choose from any of the big 3 twinscrews and be fine. If you think, at any point, for any reason, you might want to rip it all apart and go for BIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIG power, then you need either a Whipple or a KB. Between those two? The Whipple is cast aluminum, so it cools faster. The KB is.. Stainless, I think? Not sure, but it is definitely very prone to heat soak, which isn't good. Also, from everyone I've spoken to about KB, they can be a royal PITA to get on the phone. These are just observations, as I do not have a Whipple or a KB, obviously..
Which one is right for you? You decide. If you don't plan to go through the bottom end, then choose based on looks, as they'll all make about the same power with comparable modifications.
Can you handle the power? Again, as others have said, it depends on the weight of your foot. If you have a feather foot, then you won't even know it's under there. If your foot is heavy, then you'l be going through tires like it's nobody's business.
Supporting mods for s/c (not all required, but a good idea, at the least)
LCAs
LCA relo brackets
Wider wheels
Sticky rubber
One-piece driveshaft
Shifter
Clutch
If you want to lower it, then besides the springs you'll want UCA, panhard, and dampers.
The LCAs, UCA, panhard, and dampers should all be of the adjustable flavor, manufacturer at your discretion (they're all pretty good).
My personal opinion on this, is unless the Saleen is an actually Saleen CAR (not just a GT with a Saleen on it), then pass. Buy yourself either a new, base model GT, or a used, VERY low-mileage GT, and add teh supercharger yourself. Like someone else said, people don't put superchargers on cars so they can drive around at 30 MPH all day long..
Just my $.02, YMMV.
03-21-2008, 08:20 PM
#26
5th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 4,182
RE: Newbie Needs Advice - Can I Handle a Supercharged GT?
I agree completely and totally.. very well said and thought
ORIGINAL: exx1976
Yeah.......... I agree with several others on here, but ratnacage.... Well..... *sigh* (Cataclysm?)
UCA is to correct pinion angle if you lower, LCA's are what you need to control wheel hop and fix traction issues (possibly want to add LCA relo brackets too).
The Roush is not so good, seeing that it's a Roots blower (as is the Magnacharger). Saleen also offers warranties with their stock supercharger with stock pulley/tune. The Saleen is a TWINSCREW.
As far as the difference between Saleen, Whipple, and KB - Here it is:
They are ALL twinscrews, and all will make approximately the same power - UNTIL - you hit about 15-16 PSI. Then the Saleen is all done, it can't flow enough air to feed the screws. But, on the flip side, if you go anywhere over ~10psi you need to redo the bottom end. Some also say ~450rwhp (the number I prefer to stay under), some say 10PSI, it's really all a guessing game, there is no finite breaking point. It all depends on the amount of abuse you dish out to it.
So.. Unless you plan to tear apart the engine and put in new pistons, rods, rings, and a crank, then you can choose from any of the big 3 twinscrews and be fine. If you think, at any point, for any reason, you might want to rip it all apart and go for BIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIG power, then you need either a Whipple or a KB. Between those two? The Whipple is cast aluminum, so it cools faster. The KB is.. Stainless, I think? Not sure, but it is definitely very prone to heat soak, which isn't good. Also, from everyone I've spoken to about KB, they can be a royal PITA to get on the phone. These are just observations, as I do not have a Whipple or a KB, obviously..
Which one is right for you? You decide. If you don't plan to go through the bottom end, then choose based on looks, as they'll all make about the same power with comparable modifications.
Can you handle the power? Again, as others have said, it depends on the weight of your foot. If you have a feather foot, then you won't even know it's under there. If your foot is heavy, then you'l be going through tires like it's nobody's business.
Supporting mods for s/c (not all required, but a good idea, at the least)
LCAs
LCA relo brackets
Wider wheels
Sticky rubber
One-piece driveshaft
Shifter
Clutch
If you want to lower it, then besides the springs you'll want UCA, panhard, and dampers.
The LCAs, UCA, panhard, and dampers should all be of the adjustable flavor, manufacturer at your discretion (they're all pretty good).
My personal opinion on this, is unless the Saleen is an actually Saleen CAR (not just a GT with a Saleen on it), then pass. Buy yourself either a new, base model GT, or a used, VERY low-mileage GT, and add teh supercharger yourself. Like someone else said, people don't put superchargers on cars so they can drive around at 30 MPH all day long..
Just my $.02, YMMV.
Yeah.......... I agree with several others on here, but ratnacage.... Well..... *sigh* (Cataclysm?
)UCA is to correct pinion angle if you lower, LCA's are what you need to control wheel hop and fix traction issues (possibly want to add LCA relo brackets too).
The Roush is not so good, seeing that it's a Roots blower (as is the Magnacharger). Saleen also offers warranties with their stock supercharger with stock pulley/tune. The Saleen is a TWINSCREW.
As far as the difference between Saleen, Whipple, and KB - Here it is:
They are ALL twinscrews, and all will make approximately the same power - UNTIL - you hit about 15-16 PSI. Then the Saleen is all done, it can't flow enough air to feed the screws. But, on the flip side, if you go anywhere over ~10psi you need to redo the bottom end. Some also say ~450rwhp (the number I prefer to stay under), some say 10PSI, it's really all a guessing game, there is no finite breaking point. It all depends on the amount of abuse you dish out to it.
So.. Unless you plan to tear apart the engine and put in new pistons, rods, rings, and a crank, then you can choose from any of the big 3 twinscrews and be fine. If you think, at any point, for any reason, you might want to rip it all apart and go for BIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIG power, then you need either a Whipple or a KB. Between those two? The Whipple is cast aluminum, so it cools faster. The KB is.. Stainless, I think? Not sure, but it is definitely very prone to heat soak, which isn't good. Also, from everyone I've spoken to about KB, they can be a royal PITA to get on the phone. These are just observations, as I do not have a Whipple or a KB, obviously..
Which one is right for you? You decide. If you don't plan to go through the bottom end, then choose based on looks, as they'll all make about the same power with comparable modifications.
Can you handle the power? Again, as others have said, it depends on the weight of your foot. If you have a feather foot, then you won't even know it's under there. If your foot is heavy, then you'l be going through tires like it's nobody's business.
Supporting mods for s/c (not all required, but a good idea, at the least)
LCAs
LCA relo brackets
Wider wheels
Sticky rubber
One-piece driveshaft
Shifter
Clutch
If you want to lower it, then besides the springs you'll want UCA, panhard, and dampers.
The LCAs, UCA, panhard, and dampers should all be of the adjustable flavor, manufacturer at your discretion (they're all pretty good).
My personal opinion on this, is unless the Saleen is an actually Saleen CAR (not just a GT with a Saleen on it), then pass. Buy yourself either a new, base model GT, or a used, VERY low-mileage GT, and add teh supercharger yourself. Like someone else said, people don't put superchargers on cars so they can drive around at 30 MPH all day long..
Just my $.02, YMMV.
03-22-2008, 08:30 PM
#28
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 146
RE: Newbie Needs Advice - Can I Handle a Supercharged GT?
+1 exx1976
Drive the car for a little while ............ see if anything breaks so they will fix it under waranty
they mod the hell out of it when u get bored with abiding by the dealers rules.
its like your first car that you drove for 4 years. You learn its limits and your car becomes an extention of yourself
like an arm you know where to put it with out seeing where exactly is
the new mustang gts are pretty solid
Drive the car for a little while ............ see if anything breaks so they will fix it under waranty
they mod the hell out of it when u get bored with abiding by the dealers rules.
its like your first car that you drove for 4 years. You learn its limits and your car becomes an extention of yourself
like an arm you know where to put it with out seeing where exactly is
the new mustang gts are pretty solid
03-22-2008, 11:15 PM
#29
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location:
Posts: 2,033
RE: Newbie Needs Advice - Can I Handle a Supercharged GT?
+1 nofear
I drove my car for ~8000 miles before I even did the CAI/tune, just waiting to see if anything would break. Then I did CAI and tune, did another 6k on it. Then, at 14k and some change (in the off-season) I did the blower. I had it installed by a well-qualified shop (a Saleen Speedlab, in fact - BRENSPEED FTW!!), and so I am 100% confident it'll hold together for at least a season or two. Then I'll go through the bottom end (just for my own peace of mind, since I don't feel an immediate need to twist my car up funny lookin..).
Ya know, every time I'm sitting here on my couch talkingwith you guys about blowers, it makes me wish I would have bought a coupe. But then every time I get in the car with no roof, I'm SO glad I didn't. LOL I'm sure my wallet is glad I didn't, too, since I'd likely end up like ModAddict and Sawyer.. Bigger.. Better.. Faster.. MORE EXPENSIVE.. LOL
I drove my car for ~8000 miles before I even did the CAI/tune, just waiting to see if anything would break. Then I did CAI and tune, did another 6k on it. Then, at 14k and some change (in the off-season) I did the blower. I had it installed by a well-qualified shop (a Saleen Speedlab, in fact - BRENSPEED FTW!!), and so I am 100% confident it'll hold together for at least a season or two. Then I'll go through the bottom end (just for my own peace of mind, since I don't feel an immediate need to twist my car up funny lookin..
). Ya know, every time I'm sitting here on my couch talkingwith you guys about blowers, it makes me wish I would have bought a coupe. But then every time I get in the car with no roof, I'm SO glad I didn't. LOL I'm sure my wallet is glad I didn't, too, since I'd likely end up like ModAddict and Sawyer.. Bigger.. Better.. Faster.. MORE EXPENSIVE.. LOL