Thunderbutt

I cannot believe you added over 500lbs to a performance car. Thats like sucking 50-75hp away from the motor. Next time buy a Lexus.

cookiemonster

Um .. it was about 57 lbs ... not 500 ...

clix813

HAHA its sound deadening material not concrete lol. I have done patches here and there nevet the whole car but it does make huge differences. Next time I would recomend using http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/index.php?cPath=24they are alot cheaper and its all the same stuff just different names.

Toad

Hey Cookiemonster, How much of the materials did you use? I'm going to order from second skin according to your list. Just wondering if you had anything left over, or would change besides the things you already mentioned? I'm also wondering where you got your information about what to use for the layers? It seems like doing the 3 layers is a lot. Not that I'm skimpy, but how much difference does the middle layer of overkill make? Seems like the damplifier plus luxury liner should accomplish the same thing. What are your thoughts?

cookiemonster

Hi Toad: I used up pretty much all of the materials I ordered, except for about 1/2 sheet (4.5 sq ft) of Overkill and 1 sheet (9 sq ft) of Luxury Liner left over.

In retrospect, I'd probably go with 2 sheets of Luxury Liner instead of the 4 I ordered, and use the savings towards doubling up on the Damplifier instead in certain places (floor & driveshaft well).

I read about the 3-step-layer system from: http://secondskinaudio.com/3-step-plan-noise.php and from different users at their forum. There was a big difference between rapping on the metal & rapping on the metal that had a layer of Damplifier; there was also a fairly significant difference after putting on Overkill, and another significant difference after putting on Luxury Liner. I know this is just my judgement and what my ears heard - not hard measurements - so take it for what it's worth!

Good luck!!

Toad

You know that's almost exactly what I was thinking! That stuff's expensive, and heavy. What about maybe using more overkill? That stuff has a good write up and reputation, what are your thoughts about maybe doubling up or even tripling up on that stuff in places, perhaps in leiu of the luxury liner in spots? They also sell the overkill pro which is about 3 times as thick as the regular stuff...lightweight and fairly inexpensive...although I suppose that one of the best things about the luxury liner is its' mass, in the form of the vinyl barrier.

cookiemonster

Toad: In effectiveness, (in my opinion) Damplifier is better than Overkill, which is better than Luxury Liner ... so I'd spend more on Damplifier than Overkill if I could re-do it. The vinyl barrier in Lux Liner is mainly used to reflect the remaining noise instead of add mass; adding mass is the main goal of Damplifier.

ThaiCobra

Could you notice any decrease in speed?

moosestang

If you don't mind i'm quoting your whole post so I can change the font size and actually read it.

[quote]ORIGINAL: cookiemonster

[size="2"][font="courier new"]Well I finally(!) finished putting my car back together! I spent hours over the last week disassembling and reassembling my Mustang - and stuffing sound deadener in between! Was it worth it? I think so ...

My Results (yours will vary!):

* Rapping on the metal in most places made the car sound like a cheap tin can - sounds MUCH more solid now!
* The doors slam shut with an authoritative thump instead of giving off a cheap rattle
* Even the OEM Shaker 500 sounds GREAT now; highs and lows are much more sharper and clearer, and both bass and trebel sounds so much better - I don't think I need to change out the speakers or head unit
* A loud hailstorm outside? Noisy city streets? I couldn't hear the storm or ANYTHING else inside the car with the doors shut.
* I turned up the radio to a fairly loud setting, and I couldn't hear it outside of the car with the doors closed!
* It sounds as solid and noise-quiet as a luxury car now! If I had to estimate, I'd say it's 80% of the way to being "Lexus quiet"!!
* The ~2200rpm drone from my Magnaflow is gone ... and since I didn't deaden the metal above the muffler, I can still hear the sound of my muffler in the cabin when driving, and the sound of the motor. Other than that, almost nothing else.

My "How To" Guide
-----

Tools:

* Good set of professional quality SAE & Metric sockets + ratchets + socket extensions
* Screwdriver & Torx bits up to T-40-50
* Box cutter
* Shears
* Torque wrench
* Portable light (e.g. D-cell fluorescent lantern) - optional, but very helpful

Material Cost:
Second Skin Audio's Damplifier 80 sq ft - $187.20 (30 lbs) - Used to add mass to metal, and absorbs unwanted vibrations; the foil layer reflects unwanted sound
OverKill 36 sq ft - $43.13 (.468 lbs) - This is used to scatter the remaining vibrations that manages to pass through the Damplifier layer
Luxury Liner 36 sq ft $99.98 (I used ~27 sq ft = 27 lbs) - Used to absorb the last remaining vibrations that pass through the OverKill layer
Spray Adhesive 2 cans $23.94 - Used to attach Overkill & Luxury Liner
Panel Popper - $9.34 - Used to pull out pin-type retainers and trim
Wooden Hand Roller - $8.97 - Used to flatten Damplifier (saves your hands from cuts!)
Rags & Denatured Alcoh. $2.00 - Used to clean metal

How long:
* Over a period of a week, approximately ~30 hours total - cause I went slow & didn't know what I was doing!! Don't expect to use your car while it's torn apart (of course)

Instructions I Used:
* Door Trim: http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/door_trim.pdf
* Airbag safety: http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/airbag_safety.pdf
* Front seat removal: http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/sea...eter&r.pdf
* Floor console: http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/console.pdf
* Rear Seat Cushion: http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/rearseatr&r.pdf
* Rear Seat Backrest Removal: http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...t-backrest.pdf
* Headliner: http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/headliner.pdf
* Interior Trim http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/inttrim.pdf

How I did it ('07 Coupe) w/my very sweet & patient girlfriend's help :

1. I did both doors first; Taking off the door trim panels was straightforward - follow all the steps in http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/door_trim.pdf
- After taking off the trim panel, I removed the plastic sheet that covered the metal & wires. I used this as a template for the deadener layers;
- Expect to take hours on each door! Unfortunately it has lots of hills and valleys, so you'll end up cutting pieces to fit.
- I used Damplifier+Overkill+Luxury Liner in the doors - it didn't really fit! There was so much material that the trim panels barely had any
more room to attach back onto the doors. I managed to get it all on, but I don't recommend putting on Luxury Liner like I did. If I could do it over again, I'd use a double layer
of Damplifier & a layer of Overkill on it instead.
- Watch out for the valleys on the metal near the bottom of the door; there are two holes that looks like moisture/water drains, so I wouldn't
cover them or the pathways.
2. READ AND UNDERSTAND the Airbag Safety instructions: http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/airbag_safety.pdf - then DISABLE the airbags!! (NOT OPTIONAL)

- Make sure you wait at LEAST a few minutes before attempting to remove your front seats.
- If you're not confident on this part or on removing your airbag-equipped seats, don't do it - leave it to a professional!
3. Remove the front seats: http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/sea...eter&r.pdf & put them away into storage
4. Remove the floor console: http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/console.pdf
- This is pretty straightforward too, just follow the steps.
- Getting the floor console finish panel & floor console off might be a bit tricky since it has to go around the parking brake; it helps to pull
the parking brake up as far as possible and take it slowly.
- If you have a stick, just remove the shift lever bezel (item #1) then twist/rotate the top off.
5. Remove the rear seat cushion http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/rearseatr&r.pdf - this was pretty easy; it just pops off when the 2 retaining tabs under the cushions are pushed back.
6. Remove the rear seat backrest: http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...t-backrest.pdf
7. Remove the trim from the trunk
- Follow step 2 from http://www.classicdesignconcepts.com...t_kit%20TS.pdf to take off the rear panel
- Remove the base board
- Pop off the four tree-type retainers on the side trim pieces (two per side), and remove the side trim
- Remove the spare tire & accessories
8. Remove the interior trim: http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/inttrim.pdf
- The door scuff plate (item #2) just pulls off upwards; it's attached to the frame with some retaining clips & some adhesive.
- I didn't remove the lower front seat safety belt anchor bolts (#6), I didn't have a Torx T45?/50? bit to get it off. However, the carpet on
the driver's side can slide through it (sorta).
- You'll definitely need a panel popper here!
9. Remove the headliner: [URL=http://www.swaaggs.com/documen

07BOSSGT_S197

Great write up!! I asked BestBuy about their sound deadening and they charge upwards of around $700 W/O labor!! I've had to tear into the panels before and when I put my Boost/Fuel Pressure gauges in this'll be on the docket with the install.