Why I can get a 13.4 in the 1/4 while 100% stock and you can't...(Stock Drag Racing Tips)
10-22-2007, 04:23 PM
#21
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location:
Posts: 880
RE: Why I can get a 13.4 in the 1/4 while 100% stock and you can't...(Stock Drag Racing Tips)
WOW!I just read my previous post and seen all the spelling errors!Mental note:No getting a BJ while typing.
The car is running good Bro.Im waiting on my rear adjustable shocks to come in.That should shave 2-3 tenths off me!I need tires though so that will be happening soon.Probally will stick with the 555r's since I D-D the car.Yeah I killed a 2002 Z28 yesterday actually motor to motor!I didnt post it in the kill section due to the haters that lurk there.Maybe I will though.LOL!
The car is running good Bro.Im waiting on my rear adjustable shocks to come in.That should shave 2-3 tenths off me!I need tires though so that will be happening soon.Probally will stick with the 555r's since I D-D the car.Yeah I killed a 2002 Z28 yesterday actually motor to motor!I didnt post it in the kill section due to the haters that lurk there.Maybe I will though.LOL!
ORIGINAL: AmericanMuscle4.6GT
+100000.......this has been proven by MMFF, who with just a CAI as the only power mod and on stock shocks, ran a 12.51.
Donnie, how you been man? any news with new mods? track times? kill stories?
ORIGINAL: Norse1974
I dony know if some of you would consider the still stock after this mod but its no different then altering suspension with the sway bar delete.Try a one piece Driveshaft from Spyder!It will net another 2-3 tenths off your 1/4!Yet your motor/tranny is still stalk as well as rear end.In all honesty if you were to change the whole suspension out & driveline you would net 12's with a 300HP stock motor easy as long as you could drive!
I dony know if some of you would consider the still stock after this mod but its no different then altering suspension with the sway bar delete.Try a one piece Driveshaft from Spyder!It will net another 2-3 tenths off your 1/4!Yet your motor/tranny is still stalk as well as rear end.In all honesty if you were to change the whole suspension out & driveline you would net 12's with a 300HP stock motor easy as long as you could drive!
+100000.......this has been proven by MMFF, who with just a CAI as the only power mod and on stock shocks, ran a 12.51.
Donnie, how you been man? any news with new mods? track times? kill stories?
10-22-2007, 06:38 PM
#23
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: City of God
Posts: 2,358
RE: Why I can get a 13.4 in the 1/4 while 100% stock and you can't...(Stock Drag Racing Tips)
ORIGINAL: imyy4u
OK, this thread isn't meant to be cocky, but just a discussion of how you can make your car faster at the track while 100% stock. I gave these same tips to doodad when he had his s197, and he ran a 13.4 while stock, too. And by stock, I'm talking about NO mods, not even a drop-in K&N filter, not even a new set of tires. OK, so here goes...
There are a couple things to look for when buying a new Mustang that will make it as fast as possible.
#1 - get the 3.55 gears if possible - this one is self explanatory, in my case I got an 06 GT manual so I got them automatically
#2 - get the 17" tires. The bigger the tires, the more you decrease your gear ratio, meaning the slower you'll be. 18" is slower than 17", 19" slower than 18", etc. This is assuming the tires size is the same. It is possible to have an 18" rim but a smaller tire, to have the same overall diameter as a 17". But the bigger rim will stillneed to overcomemore rotational inertia and will be harder to spin = slower track times.
#3 - also get the stock wheels, those fancy chrome wheels look nice but weigh more!
#4 - don't get the Shaker 1000. Extra weight - unfortunately I did get this with my car cause I love the sound, but oh well.
#5 - get a manual. With the factory tune, an automatic transmission is slow as heck. You must get a manual for the best times.
#6 - get a V8. I know most people think this is obvious, but still...
#7 - get a coupe. While the verts are cool, coupe's weigh less, meaning they are faster stock. Period.
#8 - make sure your car has a LSD (if you can only afford the V6, that is - V8's come with this).
#9 - pass on all other options, they just add weight...especially the side airbags!!!
#10 - 05's and 06's weigh less than an 07 or 08, so they will be inherently faster.
OK now you got the fastest stock Mustang money can buy, so now some tips for the race track.
#1 - skip the waterbox - but do a small burnout to warm up your tires.
#2 - lower rear tire pressure to 20, raise front tire pressure to 40. this hellps get traction in the rear and makes the front tires as easy to rotate as possible
#3 - remove extra weight from the car, i.e. spare tire, etc. I didn't do this, but it will help - if I had I probably could've gotten a 13.3, or a lower 13.4...
#4 - consider removing the front swaybar...this will allow more transfer to the rear wheels. I didn't do this, but I probably could've gotten a better time if I had
#5 - no passengers! they just add extra weight, and if you crash, you'll never forgive yourself.
#6 - lose weight yourself! every 10 lbs you lose, you run a little faster. i'm 5'10"and only weigh 140 lbs, (99% muscle, less than 2% body fat), and it helps! plus you have better muscle definition :-)
#7 - launch around 2500 rpm, you should hook right away, if you spin, lower the rpm, if you hook, keep raising it until you are at that threshold.
#8 - don't feather the clutch - time spent feathering is less than full power going to your rear wheels! if you need to then you are launching at too high of a rpm
#9 - TCS off! It will just slow you down.
#10 - relax. While some nerves are good, if you get too nervous you can psych yourself out and screw up on shifting or on the launch, etc.
#11 - and this could be the most important! MAKE SURE YOUR ENGINE IS COLD. It is a night/day difference. And I don't mean 100% cold, because that is bad for the engine, but the needle should be barely registering on the temp guage by the C.
#12 - the colder the weather, the better your time will be...to a point. Yeah at 20 degrees your car may be a monster, but you won't hook worth anything. Try 60 degrees with 0% humidity at sea level.
#13 - the lower the elevation, and the lower the humidity, the better.
#14 - go to the track with 1/4 tank of gas or less. less gas = less weight = faster time :-D
OK that's all I can think of, if anyone has anything to add, feel free...
OK, this thread isn't meant to be cocky, but just a discussion of how you can make your car faster at the track while 100% stock. I gave these same tips to doodad when he had his s197, and he ran a 13.4 while stock, too. And by stock, I'm talking about NO mods, not even a drop-in K&N filter, not even a new set of tires. OK, so here goes...
There are a couple things to look for when buying a new Mustang that will make it as fast as possible.
#1 - get the 3.55 gears if possible - this one is self explanatory, in my case I got an 06 GT manual so I got them automatically
#2 - get the 17" tires. The bigger the tires, the more you decrease your gear ratio, meaning the slower you'll be. 18" is slower than 17", 19" slower than 18", etc. This is assuming the tires size is the same. It is possible to have an 18" rim but a smaller tire, to have the same overall diameter as a 17". But the bigger rim will stillneed to overcomemore rotational inertia and will be harder to spin = slower track times.
#3 - also get the stock wheels, those fancy chrome wheels look nice but weigh more!
#4 - don't get the Shaker 1000. Extra weight - unfortunately I did get this with my car cause I love the sound, but oh well.
#5 - get a manual. With the factory tune, an automatic transmission is slow as heck. You must get a manual for the best times.
#6 - get a V8. I know most people think this is obvious, but still...
#7 - get a coupe. While the verts are cool, coupe's weigh less, meaning they are faster stock. Period.
#8 - make sure your car has a LSD (if you can only afford the V6, that is - V8's come with this).
#9 - pass on all other options, they just add weight...especially the side airbags!!!
#10 - 05's and 06's weigh less than an 07 or 08, so they will be inherently faster.
OK now you got the fastest stock Mustang money can buy, so now some tips for the race track.
#1 - skip the waterbox - but do a small burnout to warm up your tires.
#2 - lower rear tire pressure to 20, raise front tire pressure to 40. this hellps get traction in the rear and makes the front tires as easy to rotate as possible
#3 - remove extra weight from the car, i.e. spare tire, etc. I didn't do this, but it will help - if I had I probably could've gotten a 13.3, or a lower 13.4...
#4 - consider removing the front swaybar...this will allow more transfer to the rear wheels. I didn't do this, but I probably could've gotten a better time if I had
#5 - no passengers! they just add extra weight, and if you crash, you'll never forgive yourself.
#6 - lose weight yourself! every 10 lbs you lose, you run a little faster. i'm 5'10"and only weigh 140 lbs, (99% muscle, less than 2% body fat), and it helps! plus you have better muscle definition :-)
#7 - launch around 2500 rpm, you should hook right away, if you spin, lower the rpm, if you hook, keep raising it until you are at that threshold.
#8 - don't feather the clutch - time spent feathering is less than full power going to your rear wheels! if you need to then you are launching at too high of a rpm
#9 - TCS off! It will just slow you down.
#10 - relax. While some nerves are good, if you get too nervous you can psych yourself out and screw up on shifting or on the launch, etc.
#11 - and this could be the most important! MAKE SURE YOUR ENGINE IS COLD. It is a night/day difference. And I don't mean 100% cold, because that is bad for the engine, but the needle should be barely registering on the temp guage by the C.
#12 - the colder the weather, the better your time will be...to a point. Yeah at 20 degrees your car may be a monster, but you won't hook worth anything. Try 60 degrees with 0% humidity at sea level.
#13 - the lower the elevation, and the lower the humidity, the better.
#14 - go to the track with 1/4 tank of gas or less. less gas = less weight = faster time :-D
OK that's all I can think of, if anyone has anything to add, feel free...
10-22-2007, 07:16 PM
#24
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 11,278
RE: Why I can get a 13.4 in the 1/4 while 100% stock and you can't...(Stock Drag Racing Tips)
Power shift! I've never tried this because i'm afraid to **** up my synchros, but it could mean the difference between a 13.8 and a 13.4.
Actually I lied, i have powershifted by accident.
Also there's no need to push the clutch all the way to the floor before you start shifting. I can actually shift at about half way down and that could mean a few tenths. The key to good times with a manual is shifting as quickly as possible after nailing the launch of course.
Actually I lied, i have powershifted by accident.
Also there's no need to push the clutch all the way to the floor before you start shifting. I can actually shift at about half way down and that could mean a few tenths. The key to good times with a manual is shifting as quickly as possible after nailing the launch of course.
10-22-2007, 07:36 PM
#25
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Oceanside, NY
Posts: 681
RE: Why I can get a 13.4 in the 1/4 while 100% stock and you can't...(Stock Drag Racing Tips)
the automatic I do not agree on....most race cars have 2-3 speed automatics....im sure if u have a stall converter and a good tune u can probably beat most manuals out there......
10-22-2007, 08:11 PM
#26
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: California
Posts: 4,132
RE: Why I can get a 13.4 in the 1/4 while 100% stock and you can't...(Stock Drag Racing Tips)
I actually tried power shifting once about a month ago on the street... HUGE difference! Seriously, the stang pulled like never before... I was amazed by it. It would be easy to wreck though if you did any minor thing wrong so I wouldn't advise in doing it... not to mention that it's not good for your stang ~ J
ORIGINAL: moosestang
Power shift! I've never tried this because i'm afraid to **** up my synchros, but it could mean the difference between a 13.8 and a 13.4.
Actually I lied, i have powershifted by accident.
Also there's no need to push the clutch all the way to the floor before you start shifting. I can actually shift at about half way down and that could mean a few tenths. The key to good times with a manual is shifting as quickly as possible after nailing the launch of course.
Power shift! I've never tried this because i'm afraid to **** up my synchros, but it could mean the difference between a 13.8 and a 13.4.
Actually I lied, i have powershifted by accident.
Also there's no need to push the clutch all the way to the floor before you start shifting. I can actually shift at about half way down and that could mean a few tenths. The key to good times with a manual is shifting as quickly as possible after nailing the launch of course.
10-22-2007, 08:16 PM
#27
5th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 4,182
RE: Why I can get a 13.4 in the 1/4 while 100% stock and you can't...(Stock Drag Racing Tips)
Mine don't .....Build your own ftw!
ORIGINAL:
Bummer i was about to get really happy.
Your differential housing should have a sticker on it that says so. 2007 stock manual GT's have 3.31
Bummer i was about to get really happy.
Your differential housing should have a sticker on it that says so. 2007 stock manual GT's have 3.31
10-22-2007, 08:17 PM
#28
5th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 4,182
RE: Why I can get a 13.4 in the 1/4 while 100% stock and you can't...(Stock Drag Racing Tips)
I ran a 12.8 while powershifting
ORIGINAL: moosestang
Power shift! I've never tried this because i'm afraid to **** up my synchros, but it could mean the difference between a 13.8 and a 13.4.
Actually I lied, i have powershifted by accident.
Also there's no need to push the clutch all the way to the floor before you start shifting. I can actually shift at about half way down and that could mean a few tenths. The key to good times with a manual is shifting as quickly as possible after nailing the launch of course.
Power shift! I've never tried this because i'm afraid to **** up my synchros, but it could mean the difference between a 13.8 and a 13.4.
Actually I lied, i have powershifted by accident.
Also there's no need to push the clutch all the way to the floor before you start shifting. I can actually shift at about half way down and that could mean a few tenths. The key to good times with a manual is shifting as quickly as possible after nailing the launch of course.
10-22-2007, 08:25 PM
#29
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location:
Posts: 1,473
RE: Why I can get a 13.4 in the 1/4 while 100% stock and you can't...(Stock Drag Racing Tips)
i got a 07, auto, aftermarket 18s, they felt lighters then stock, pzeros, c&l, brenspeed tune. i have subs in the trunk but i would take em out when i went to the track.
soon im going to have 373s
what do u think i would run. it would be the first time down the track in the stang. but ive raced a good amount of times on the street.
assuming i get a good light, traction and launch at about 2500. what do you think id run
soon im going to have 373s
what do u think i would run. it would be the first time down the track in the stang. but ive raced a good amount of times on the street.
assuming i get a good light, traction and launch at about 2500. what do you think id run
10-22-2007, 08:47 PM
#30
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 3,070
RE: Why I can get a 13.4 in the 1/4 while 100% stock and you can't...(Stock Drag Racing Tips)
What about taking your hood off to reduce weight and make sure your intake gets cooler air?
What about starting with your doors open to reduce your take-off mass?
Does removing things (like the spare tire) still count as being "stock"? If so, why not just rip everything off the car and run an 11?
I don't get it...... Are you winning trophies? Is it just for fun? Does your boss give you a raise if you cut a tenth off your time? Will your quarter-mile time be engraved on your tombstone as well as all the things you did to make the "stock"car perform it's dead level fastest?
I do likethe sport of racing. I am not a racer myself, but if I were a professional racer or even someone who raced for the competition and fun, I'd get a race car, not a "stock" Mustang. Even if I were racing in a "stock Mustang class", what good is it unless everyone's setup us EXACTLY the same? For instance, do you get great satisfaction in your stock stang with 3.55 gears beating a stock stang with 3.31 gears? That kind of race would only say something about your driving if you were to LOSE. My point is that any stock Mustang is not any other stock Mustang unless EVERYTHING is the same. If one guy removes his spare tire, the other guyshould haveto remove his spare tire. If one guy has 28 lbs of tire pressure, the other guy should have 28 lbs of tire pressure. What is the competition about?....the tweaks that anyone can make to their car, or your DRIVING SKILL? From what I am hearing, if you lose a race, you always have an excuse...."Well, I lost because I didn't adjust my tire pressure." ......"I lost because I weigh 20 lbs more than that guy."....."I lost because I greased my car earlier today, and that extra grease weight held me back." Perhaps if the track had one car that everyone drove (with lead weights to make everyone's weight the same), then you would have some competition and bragging rights about your driving. As far as the little tweaks to the "stock" car that everyone has mentioned, I say SO WHAT....anyone can do that.....but can you drive?
Please read my post with alargegrain of salt. I am not trying to offend. Just offering an opinion. If it makes you feel better, you may assume it is just my giving a cry for help.
What about starting with your doors open to reduce your take-off mass?
Does removing things (like the spare tire) still count as being "stock"? If so, why not just rip everything off the car and run an 11?
I don't get it...... Are you winning trophies? Is it just for fun? Does your boss give you a raise if you cut a tenth off your time? Will your quarter-mile time be engraved on your tombstone as well as all the things you did to make the "stock"car perform it's dead level fastest?
I do likethe sport of racing. I am not a racer myself, but if I were a professional racer or even someone who raced for the competition and fun, I'd get a race car, not a "stock" Mustang. Even if I were racing in a "stock Mustang class", what good is it unless everyone's setup us EXACTLY the same? For instance, do you get great satisfaction in your stock stang with 3.55 gears beating a stock stang with 3.31 gears? That kind of race would only say something about your driving if you were to LOSE. My point is that any stock Mustang is not any other stock Mustang unless EVERYTHING is the same. If one guy removes his spare tire, the other guyshould haveto remove his spare tire. If one guy has 28 lbs of tire pressure, the other guy should have 28 lbs of tire pressure. What is the competition about?....the tweaks that anyone can make to their car, or your DRIVING SKILL? From what I am hearing, if you lose a race, you always have an excuse...."Well, I lost because I didn't adjust my tire pressure." ......"I lost because I weigh 20 lbs more than that guy."....."I lost because I greased my car earlier today, and that extra grease weight held me back." Perhaps if the track had one car that everyone drove (with lead weights to make everyone's weight the same), then you would have some competition and bragging rights about your driving. As far as the little tweaks to the "stock" car that everyone has mentioned, I say SO WHAT....anyone can do that.....but can you drive?
Please read my post with alargegrain of salt. I am not trying to offend. Just offering an opinion. If it makes you feel better, you may assume it is just my giving a cry for help.