Higgie

Nice to see you here tonight, birdieman. Did you get to half pass today ??

Birdieman4

You let the amount of boost you run (pulley size) dictate your hp.
Yes, no problems, straight down broadway. I think it ran a 3.1 something at around 265 mph. It carried the front wheels for 200'. Fun stuff. Tomorrow I'll drive it to around 1000'.

lostsoul

hell.. I only have 50 miles on my car.. I have to break it in first then get an SC.. so I will have some time before I can load it with tons more HP. hopefully by that time I will be able to shift like a man!! ahaha After 3 years behind a beat up 87 honda my shifting skills are well.. sad... Its getting better.. but that damn first gear is messing with me.. I just touch the gas and it shoots the 3K!! haha... ohhh well

GWFoos

Do you mean something like the Steeda Underdrive pulleys? Would the necessary specs be available for people to know how to do this?

Higgie

You gotta be a G's addict !! lol No wonder you have a soft spot for the E cars. Enjoy tomorrow, may she go straight and true !!

[sm=badbadbad.gif]

Birdieman4

I'm an adrenaline junkie. I got nitromethane running in my veins. Tomorrow will be fun.

GWFoos

Birdieman4 or others:

Since the connecting rods are the weakest link, could you bolster the engine with stabilizing arms or something that would circumvent the need to run lower boost?

Thanks.

showam1

I would hazard a guess that he means the connecting rods from the crankshaft to the pistons, not to stabilize the engine in the car
Marty

GWFoos

Let me preface the following statement in that I am trying to immerse myself in the modification thing, but will mispeak/quote what I have been hearing.

As far as the connecting rods go, I was quoting someone I talked to offline and was not sure exactly what they meant. I am really trying to understand the full scope of what I will be doing to the car financially and mechanically speaking so that I fully appreciate what I will do.

showam1

It is my understanding the the weakness in the 4.6 engine is that the crank, connecting rods and the pistons are cast, not forged.
It is also my understanding that cast means, hot metal poured into a mold, cooled, then machined.
forged is metal that has been heated, then beaten into shape thus making a much stonger end product. I understand that this is a very simplistic way of looking at it, but that is what I'm trying to do.
The rotating mass has to deal with centrifical force as well as torsional effect of the torq of the motor. the more you increase the demand for power, the stronger the internals have to be to stay together.
When someone mentioned that you could change the pullies to adjust boost of the blower, they meant the one on the front of the blower, just like a gear on a ten speed bicycle, the smaller the gear the faster it turns the blower giving more boost, at least that is my understanding of it. you can get more than one to adjust for daily driving, then sat night races.
but, more boost = more HP = more internal stress on the engine. from what I'm picking up, it looks like you wouldn't want to boost much past about 430 hp without considering upgrade of internal rotating mass components. they said here first connecting rods, them crank, and I'm sure in there somewhere is the piston. i think If I was to go this route, I would do all at the same time, so a proper balance can be maintained. My rough understanding is that the counter weight on the crank needs to balance with the combined weight of the conecting rod and the piston, and all should be very close throughout.
I also seem to remember that higher RPMs can cause a problem with valve springs, but I am unsure of this with the newer cam in head heads... is this still a problem?
Hope this clears some of it up, and by all means if I'm wrong will someone pipe in and help out?
Marty