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ORIGINAL: jrhykushi

Whats up guys/gals,

what choices of rotors do we have if we want to keep the stock calipers?

i want something a little bigger than the stock rotors, and something that doesn't rust [:@]

sorry if this is a newbie q.. thanks in advance!

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ORIGINAL: Larmo

Please PM me some pricing and specifics.

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ORIGINAL: F1Fan

Hi exx1976,

Youare mistaken about how brakes work and what is going on when you press on the break pedal. Brakes DO NOTstopthe car, TIRES stop the car. Brake systems justconvert the kinetic energyof the car's massinto heat, tires are thelimiting factor for stoping distanceif you have enough clamping force which EVERY modern car from the lowest KIA to the highest performance race cars have in spades.

There are many reasons that you may have perceived improved brake performance on you old car when installing largerdiam. rotors.Air in the brake lines, fluid leaks,glazed pads, worn pads, scored rotors damaged rotors etc. all reduce braking performance. The fact is that on any modern high-performance car with ABS if you can lock up the front tires and the rear tires lock up shortly after you have more than enough brake clamping force to stop the car as fast as is possible with the given brake system, brake bias, suspension, alignment and tires on the car. No amount of "extra" brake clamping force front and/or rear will stop the car any faster than the brakes on the car because more clamping force cannot be converted to more tire grip. More brake clamping pressure is frequently interpreted by drivers as "stopping better"but braking points on the road coursetell a different story just as insturmented brake testing does.

This is a fact and you can prove it to yourself if you have a fresh set of brakes and tires on the car. All you have to do isbuy one of thepopular G-meters and a set of larger brakes of your choice. Find a nice place to do your testing and baseline the stock brakes on the car and document thetrack and air temps of the test area. Nextyou just need to spend a day or two to install and fully bed and heat cyclethe new BBK rotors and pads. Once you have 3-4 complete heat cycles on the rotors retest under the same track and air temp conditions and you will have your answer which will be the same answer as everybody else how has actually performed insturmented brake testing, bigger rotors are no advantage until the stock brakes overheat.

Ah ha you say, I told you big brakes are better. Well no, not really as the stock S197GT brakes are more than adequately sized and can lock up the tires no problem. All you need to do is installrotors that are not made of cheap materials, a set of higher pads with a more reasonable MOT, wider heat range with a slightly higher friction coefficent than stock along with racing class brake fluid like Motul RBF600 or ATE Super Blue/Gold and spindle mounted brake cooling and front mounted ducts with 3" hose and you will bestopping even BETTER than the guy who only installed a BBK and is overheating his brakes.

HTH!

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ORIGINAL: marcuskeeler

That's all good info, but I don't think that anybody disputes the ability of the Mustangs brakes to actually lock the wheels. The question iswould they lock the brakes after being used enthusiastically? I suffered extreme brake fade on my stockers after just a couple of hard applications.

Anything that reduces heat build up is good, and larger rotors help do that. Some pad materials works with heat better as well of course but usually at the cost of efficiency at lower temps although I'm sure there is a good brake pad material which is a reasonable performer at all day-to-day temperature ranges.

Ofcourse, it could be argued that anything is better than the stock setup, I'm a definite believer of that one, even though some folk swear by them.

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