NyFordTech

As far as weight diffrence didnt have a scale around at the time but half the weight of the stock steel flywheel. when i removed the stock flywheel i was amazed at how heavy it really was. Compared to the stock flywheel the aluminum one was like a feather.
I can weigh the stock steel flywheel tommorow if you interested but its too late to weigh the spec.

hammeron

ok, great. i think a lot of us would
love to do our own clutches, but the
pilot bearing removal is something
we'd rather not do, if we don't have to.....

moosestang

I'd suggest anyone trying to decide between an aluminum or steel flywheel to do a google search with "aluminum vs. steel flywheel". There are disadvantages to an aluminum flywheel besides the initial cost, which only get mentioned when debating the two. Here's just one post, there are tons out there and tons of opinions on the subject.

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=576766

The link is to stangnet incase it gets **** out.

Stkjock

cool... mine's in but I didnt pick up the car today due to the snow!!!

Dan @ Realspeed said this of the clutch....

"The clutch has a very positive engagement. It is either ON or OFF. It will be great for holding up to the power but it will take some getting used to. The pedal effort is nice and easy, but the on/off nature of the engagement is the most agressive I have ever felt in a street car. "

I hope I can get used to it!

Diabolical!

Don't count on it. They told me the same thing. I emailed them at 500 miles to tell them it was still chattering and they responded by telling me that it's usually cleared up by 1000 miles. Going on 900 miles now and it's still not gone. I would yank it out now and replace it with a mcleod if I wasn't planning a TR6060 swap later this year.

I will say that it initially made a lot more noise than it does now. It got about 75% better in the first couple hundred miles, but since then, it hasn't gotten any better.

ohnoesaz

Those spec 3's DO NOT break in!!! I've read it too many times. They're built of materials that don't 'soften' or anything like that. Its like metal on metal, and it always will be.

Now... Is that really even bad? I dont think so! I say have fun.

And thanks for the pilot bearing tip, if I do my clutch soon Ill make sure I dont freak out about it and instead I just lube it up.

ohnoesaz

Sometimes a lightweight flywheel can have downsides... But for our cars its a great mod. The reason is our OEM wheels, driveshaft, and rotors are already considerably heavy compared to most cars. Doing a 1pc driveshaft and aluminum flywheel can actually even things out and give better performance before any downsides will be felt.

moosestang

I don't see how the stock 17's are heavy. The main downside of a lightweight flywheel is starting from a stop and I don't mean just at the drag strip.

didn't you put loctite on your oil drain plug? Now your recommending flywheels?

Did you use a spec flywheel? Aluminum or steel? I'm sure I asked you about it, but can't remember.

MustangGT0405

From the people I have talked to they say that the Specs always have chatter. Never goes away completely.

moosestang

Pulled this off the ram website. I guess my 4.10's are good for something.

All high performance clutch discs have friction material with a high coefficient of friction. They are more aggressive on engagement and can cause chatter. Chatter is aggravated by gearing and tire size. For example, a car with a 3.08 to 1 rear gear will have chatter. This car is essentially in second gear when pulling off and it will chatter with any clutch. Many factory performance cars have high gearing to meet emissions and gas mileage requirements that will tend to cause chatter. If you install a performance clutch in a car with less than 3.78 to 1 rear and 2.60 to 1 first gear ratios you probably will experience some clutch chatter . If you have this problem you may have to change your driving technique to minimize the chatter. Or better, change the rear gear.