Panhard bar and suspension question????
I know many people say that a panhard bar is needed with lowering. My question is why don't roush and saleen use them on there S197's. Is it really needed or is it only for extreme drops?
Also, I was looking at this kit http://store.roushperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=471. Would I need a panhard bar and do you guys think it's just an overpriced name brand kit? I'm looking for a nice street/daily driver set-up, that would never see a road course and only see the dragstrip 3-4 times a year. I don't mind the stiffness and I drive on some pretty nice paved twisties to and from work. what set-up do you guys suggest? Oh the price range is $1200-$1500 for parts. |
RE: Panhard bar and suspension question????
it really depends on how off your rear is after the drop - i've got the pro kit and the difference was almost an 1" from the driver's side to the passenger's side, but i probably started off slightly more off-center than others. tbh, idk why you wouldn't get an adj. phb for the price.
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RE: Panhard bar and suspension question????
I just had installed Tokico D-specs and Eibach Pro.
Stock, the car's rear height was 29 1/2" (measured from the ground to the highest point of the fender) and the axle centering was: Driver's: 1 3/4" Passenger's: 2 1/2" (measured by using a plumb at the fender flare and measured the distance to the center cap) After installing this setup I measured: Driver's: 2.0" Passenger's: 2 1/4" Rear ride height was 28" (immediate 1 1/2" drop and will settle further for ~1/4") So, with lowering the car's axle will shift towards the driver's side by 1/4". However, in my case, the axle was already to the passenger's side more than the driver's side so the lowering brought it back more towards center. This is where the adjustable panhard bar comes in - to center the axle (or re-center it). To enhance the OP's question: Should the axle be centered or should there be an offset like what I measured stock???? I did drive it a little and found that yes, it is a stiffer ride and I will definately have to slow way down for railroad tracks. I can feel the crappy concrete roads and cracks more too BUT I noticed that the nose dive from braking has reduced greatly, the rear end squat from acceleration has reduced greatly and that it corners much better. There is a member/vendor that posts in the Handling forum that recommends the Koni's over the Tokico's (Sam Stranos). |
RE: Panhard bar and suspension question????
I had purchased an adj. panhard when I bought the Roush springs, after installing the springs my axle was dead center, although it was off center to the passenger side prior to installing the springs.
Should the axle be centered or should there be an offset like what I measured stock??? :eek: Good question Marty! |
RE: Panhard bar and suspension question????
yeah the panhard will probally be purchased. I am kinda thinking of the Eibach Pro-System. plus adj. panhard and the Eibach System could all be had for under $1000. Any other parts you think I might need?
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RE: Panhard bar and suspension question????
Heres what Saleen puts on their hardcore lowered Stangs. ;)
A watts link set-up. True vertical movement without any side to side movement. [IMG]local://upfiles/69445/BF6A2D7F80274C16B01BB8E4516831BE.jpg[/IMG] Roush springs dont lower the S197s enough to warrant an adjustable panhard bar. Its a 44" long bar at 2 degrees below the axle. Lower the rear 3/4" and do the math. Its not a noticable amount. Do the math (trig). :D |
RE: Panhard bar and suspension question????
martymoose. Try going with a softer strut adjustment. ( 6 ).
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RE: Panhard bar and suspension question????
I'd get an adjustable panhard bar if you're going with anything more than Roush springs.
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RE: Panhard bar and suspension question????
Why do you recommend it?
TIA |
RE: Panhard bar and suspension question????
ORIGINAL: MartyMoose Why do you recommend it? TIA |
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