12.5@115????
#22
I little far away from there, Wisconsin, lol. I see 2 sets on ebay in my size, but they are over $500, I think I shall be waiting for spring. Maybe Santa will bring me some!!! Good looking out though!
#23
Try reversing your shock settings...full soft in the rear and full hard in the front. You want the rear end to squat down to tranfser as much weight to the drive axle as you can, and you want the front to stay up as long as possible to keep it there. Not sure what (if any beside the shocks) rear suspension mods you have, but also check pinion and thrust angle on your rear axle. Even a degree or two out of spec on the pinion angle will hurt.
Your MPH is pretty high for a 12.5 run... you should be in the high 11's with that much. Don't worry so much about the tires, with as much of a contact patch as you have on those drag radials, short of having a touring tire, your gonna be ok. Concentrate on your technique. Get your short times to a 1.6 or 1.7. Every 1/10th in the short time is 2/10ths at the traps. As my father used to say, "Don't throw parts at the car when the problem is not the dope on the car, but the dope on the seat"
Your MPH is pretty high for a 12.5 run... you should be in the high 11's with that much. Don't worry so much about the tires, with as much of a contact patch as you have on those drag radials, short of having a touring tire, your gonna be ok. Concentrate on your technique. Get your short times to a 1.6 or 1.7. Every 1/10th in the short time is 2/10ths at the traps. As my father used to say, "Don't throw parts at the car when the problem is not the dope on the car, but the dope on the seat"
#26
With the gear your running and the power you have get a set of 28" or taller dr's or slicks. Then practice, practice, practice. With 340whp running consistent low 12s on 1.7 60s. I would guess that low low low 11s are possible with your mods.
#27
Try reversing your shock settings...full soft in the rear and full hard in the front. You want the rear end to squat down to tranfser as much weight to the drive axle as you can, and you want the front to stay up as long as possible to keep it there. Not sure what (if any beside the shocks) rear suspension mods you have, but also check pinion and thrust angle on your rear axle. Even a degree or two out of spec on the pinion angle will hurt.
Your MPH is pretty high for a 12.5 run... you should be in the high 11's with that much. Don't worry so much about the tires, with as much of a contact patch as you have on those drag radials, short of having a touring tire, your gonna be ok. Concentrate on your technique. Get your short times to a 1.6 or 1.7. Every 1/10th in the short time is 2/10ths at the traps. As my father used to say, "Don't throw parts at the car when the problem is not the dope on the car, but the dope on the seat"
Your MPH is pretty high for a 12.5 run... you should be in the high 11's with that much. Don't worry so much about the tires, with as much of a contact patch as you have on those drag radials, short of having a touring tire, your gonna be ok. Concentrate on your technique. Get your short times to a 1.6 or 1.7. Every 1/10th in the short time is 2/10ths at the traps. As my father used to say, "Don't throw parts at the car when the problem is not the dope on the car, but the dope on the seat"
I'm surprised no one else caught this. This stood out more to me than ANYTHING, it was the first thing I noticed. :-P
Last edited by acarzt; 09-13-2008 at 03:14 PM.
#29
I have read so much on the shock settings and it seems that 1/2 the people say the way I had it was correct and the other half say the opposite way is correct. I even checked this forum before I went, lol. Next time I will try, as truthfully the hard up front, soft in back makes more sense to me.
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