0% financing any time soon?
#11
Remember on your trade in that you walk in with figures from KBB. They work off the "black book" or wholesale price (auction price). If they can't find it they do dealer calls and find an average.
NEVER walk on the property and tell them you want to trade in your car until AFTER both of you have negotiated and signed a purchase order on the new one.
Like written earlier, dealer FO's have a spread to work with on percentages for financing.
At the end of each month big dealerships have a "washout" meeting with the sales staff/management and go over transactions. Don't be a victum they chuckle over.
NEVER walk on the property and tell them you want to trade in your car until AFTER both of you have negotiated and signed a purchase order on the new one.
Like written earlier, dealer FO's have a spread to work with on percentages for financing.
At the end of each month big dealerships have a "washout" meeting with the sales staff/management and go over transactions. Don't be a victum they chuckle over.
#12
This is how I worked my last 3 purchases:
1) Find the vehicle I'm interested in and request an internet quote (I NEVER go to a dealership and talk to a regular sales guy). Typically, the internet quote is at or near invoice.
2) Get a line item quote for every charge the dealer is going to tack on (i.e. tags, "processing" fees, tax, etc.)
1 + 2 = negotiated price of the new car
3) I bring with me a print out that shows the average of KBB, Edmunds, and NADA used car values for my vehicle. I'm not the type to be really pushy so I usually can get slightly above KBB value.
I FEEL like I've always gotten a good deal going this route.
1) Find the vehicle I'm interested in and request an internet quote (I NEVER go to a dealership and talk to a regular sales guy). Typically, the internet quote is at or near invoice.
2) Get a line item quote for every charge the dealer is going to tack on (i.e. tags, "processing" fees, tax, etc.)
1 + 2 = negotiated price of the new car
3) I bring with me a print out that shows the average of KBB, Edmunds, and NADA used car values for my vehicle. I'm not the type to be really pushy so I usually can get slightly above KBB value.
I FEEL like I've always gotten a good deal going this route.
#13
Remember on your trade in that you walk in with figures from KBB. They work off the "black book" or wholesale price (auction price). If they can't find it they do dealer calls and find an average.
NEVER walk on the property and tell them you want to trade in your car until AFTER both of you have negotiated and signed a purchase order on the new one.
Like written earlier, dealer FO's have a spread to work with on percentages for financing.
At the end of each month big dealerships have a "washout" meeting with the sales staff/management and go over transactions. Don't be a victum they chuckle over.
NEVER walk on the property and tell them you want to trade in your car until AFTER both of you have negotiated and signed a purchase order on the new one.
Like written earlier, dealer FO's have a spread to work with on percentages for financing.
At the end of each month big dealerships have a "washout" meeting with the sales staff/management and go over transactions. Don't be a victum they chuckle over.
Here's the problem with the old "wait to tell them about your trade" thing that people like to say... you have negotiated all of the "over allowance" out of the figures of the car you are buying. You will probably get mad at the numbers they show you. Just keep this in mind when you use this tactic.
Another thing to keep in mind is that if YOU start the process by being dishonest with dealer... well, how do you think he is going to treat you? Just some food for thought. And BTW, signing a purchase order for an agreed price doesn't mean anything when you change the deal by adding a trade.
And not every deal give the finance manager a "spread" to work with on interest rates. It's not uncommon around here to simply give the customer the "buy rate".
This is how I worked my last 3 purchases:
1) Find the vehicle I'm interested in and request an internet quote (I NEVER go to a dealership and talk to a regular sales guy). Typically, the internet quote is at or near invoice.
2) Get a line item quote for every charge the dealer is going to tack on (i.e. tags, "processing" fees, tax, etc.)
1 + 2 = negotiated price of the new car
3) I bring with me a print out that shows the average of KBB, Edmunds, and NADA used car values for my vehicle. I'm not the type to be really pushy so I usually can get slightly above KBB value.
I FEEL like I've always gotten a good deal going this route.
1) Find the vehicle I'm interested in and request an internet quote (I NEVER go to a dealership and talk to a regular sales guy). Typically, the internet quote is at or near invoice.
2) Get a line item quote for every charge the dealer is going to tack on (i.e. tags, "processing" fees, tax, etc.)
1 + 2 = negotiated price of the new car
3) I bring with me a print out that shows the average of KBB, Edmunds, and NADA used car values for my vehicle. I'm not the type to be really pushy so I usually can get slightly above KBB value.
I FEEL like I've always gotten a good deal going this route.
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