That Insane Rattle!!!!
10-08-2008, 11:38 AM
#19
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: ohio
Posts: 76
FIXED THE RATTLE
I had the car on a lift welding up my OR/H pipe and began to investigate the pesky rattle. The dust/inspection plate between the manual trans and the block is with 100% certainty the culprit. Back in the day you could just removed them easily for service. This one is not removeable unless the block and tranny are separated. All I had to do is flick it with my finger and "bingo" that was the noise i kept hearing.
The FIX: Remove or back the two lower bolts out for the inspection cover. Carefully pry back the inspection cover and apply a bead of blue silicone glue between the metal plate and the bellhousing. The silicone glue is commonly referred to as blue glue and available at any auto parts store. Re-tighten the two bolts. Done!
The rattle is gone!!!! Didn't cost me a thing, always good this day in age.
The FIX: Remove or back the two lower bolts out for the inspection cover. Carefully pry back the inspection cover and apply a bead of blue silicone glue between the metal plate and the bellhousing. The silicone glue is commonly referred to as blue glue and available at any auto parts store. Re-tighten the two bolts. Done!
The rattle is gone!!!! Didn't cost me a thing, always good this day in age.
10-08-2008, 12:16 PM
#20
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 498
Hey guys - I've got a 2005 4.0 5-speed and have the RATTLE too! But I definitely KNOW where it's coming from.. the shift linkage! The S197 manual tranny has a long linkage between the stick and the tranny, and at the point where the linkage meets the tranny vibrations from the engine rattle the linkage and any parts of the stick shifter that have ANY play at all.. One of the main culprits is the "ball/socket" pivot point - if you pull up on the stick and you get a slight movement, THAT's what's causing lot of the noise you hear in the cabin.
NOTE: This gets MUCH more noticeable when you install a HURST shifter because you replace the stock gummy-soft black bushings with the STIFF red ones supplied with the Hurst.. but hey, the short-throw & positive action of the Hurst is worth the sacrifice!
The best way I've found to remedy the rattling is to use foam rubber pipe insulation (the stuff around the hot water pipes in your cellar) wrapped around the full length of the linkage from the stick to the tranny making SURE you cover the linkage where it meets the tranny. The other thing that helps is using a short section of plastic compression hose (Home Depot dishwasher hose) which acts like a spring between the linkage and the ball/socket to keep a mild pressure on that area and dampen the vibrations. These two fixes are enough to eliminate 99% of the sound. I still get a little rattle at WOT when I'm accelerating HARD, but that's very brief & it's dead quiet in steady-state operation.
NOTE: This gets MUCH more noticeable when you install a HURST shifter because you replace the stock gummy-soft black bushings with the STIFF red ones supplied with the Hurst.. but hey, the short-throw & positive action of the Hurst is worth the sacrifice!
The best way I've found to remedy the rattling is to use foam rubber pipe insulation (the stuff around the hot water pipes in your cellar) wrapped around the full length of the linkage from the stick to the tranny making SURE you cover the linkage where it meets the tranny. The other thing that helps is using a short section of plastic compression hose (Home Depot dishwasher hose) which acts like a spring between the linkage and the ball/socket to keep a mild pressure on that area and dampen the vibrations. These two fixes are enough to eliminate 99% of the sound. I still get a little rattle at WOT when I'm accelerating HARD, but that's very brief & it's dead quiet in steady-state operation.
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