CutterWolf

Should not be a problem finding a good pair of 8" to take their place

Bmr4life

I suggest trying them on good power FIRST. No point in replacing them if they can get the job done. Seriously. The stock shaker unit is feeding them no more than 10-20w RMS. That's a joke. I'm feeding mine 160w RMS and they love it.

The problem you may had was not enough power or improper crossovers. I found that the midbass sound like absolute crap if you let them play over 500hz, gotta cross them off beneath that. At the same time, you don't want them competing with the subs because they will distort. That's why a bandpass crossover is so great. I specifically bought an amp that has one built in.

The new 8's will need an amp and xover anyway, so I'd give the stock units a try before taking them out.

rford426

i want 6 1/2 components alos **** the 8" sub thats why im getting a 12....how can you put 6 1/2 components in my door?

Bmr4life

lol, **** a 12", I have a 13" Yup, a 13" You still need the 8"s. And they aren't subs, they're midbasses. Is it really that hard to understand?

For those that really want to know, you can buy/make adapter plates to put 6.5s in the doors. But why on earth would you want to go smaller?

You need to make sure all the frequencies are covered if you want to do it right.

20-80hz - SUB-Woofer
80- ~500hz Midbass/woofer (some 6.5s and most 8s fall here)
500hz - 2000hz - Midrange (some 6.5s, 4.5s & 6x8s fall here)
2000hz and up - Tweeters

Those fqs can will vary depending on the speakers you use, but they make a good starting point.

What people tend to do wrong is not have midbass and expect their midrange and sub to meet up. It won't happen. Highest point a sub should be crossed at is 120hz. Lowest midrange can probably dig to 350hz or so. There's a big gap there were a large portion of the music actually falls.

A lot of the great component sets will comes with 3 sets of speakers leaving you only with the sub to buy separate.

This is a good example of a nice 3 way set.

With that set, you'd replace the 8s with the woofer. Put the 4.5s in the stock 6x8 location. And place the tweeters with the 4.5s or someone else like the a-pillar (not the best for audio length) or in the kick panel area (best).

CutterWolf

This is just what I've been saying, "no sell yourself short", if your skipping the mid bass your skipping a crap load of good sound. You can't beleave how much of a "hole" in your system it leaves with out it........

Bmr4life

Yeah, I was lost for so long. The stang is the first car I've ever had that had midbass locations. Everything else was just 6.5s upfront (or worse, 3.5s in my buick) and 6x9's out back. I'd replace them with full range, add a sub, and think I was doing something. Little did I know how much was I missing out on.

thedrod

I don't see amps too often that have bandpass capabilities. Got any recommendations anybody?

Lets say the stock 8s are already blown....because thats part of the reason I made this decision, one of them is buzzing. Anybody have a replacement they have been happy with....and what are you powering it with?

Bmr4life

Yeah, they are limited. Sundown make one, which my SAX 100.4 is. They have a new model coming out, SAX 100.4D They also sell refurbed amps there, but they cost just as much as this presale price which is $325. link

I got mine for $250 back in April, but it has one big ugly *** scratch on it.

You could always use an external crossover inline with the amp.

As for 8s. I don't know. For those stating they have some, please state what you are powering it with. Someone still using the stock HU won't have a good opinion of it.

Rubrignitz

I didn't order the upgraded crap ford audio (so I don't have the intrusive lower door enclosures) and that was the first thing I installed in the car. I have a set of Morel Hybrid Ovations (6.5'') installed in the doors under the upper grills (where nobody can SEE them) with baffles. The tweeters are flush mounted within 2'' of the mids and hidden, which is ideal. A couple of 5x7'' boston full-range on the deck under carpet for fill and a RF Power 1000 25 to Life series amp running everything with a single JL W7 12'' in the trunk. Pure audio ecstasy.

Personally I would just leave the 8'' openings bare and place some quality 6.5'' up high and as CLOSE to the high-range driver (tweeter) as possible. Throw some mids on the rear deck if you need more mid-bass in the cabin.

Bmr4life

That could work in a crunch. I usually shy away from any rear fill. Plus I love the extra bass I get with those deck holes open.