ponyman

Hey all,

I got a set of rotors (all the way around) from newtakeoffs.com because I hosed my old ones. They say that all of their parts are 5 miles or less. They did say that the rotors may come with some surface rust, which I expected.

Well the rotors are here and they do have some surface rust. They said that I could use a "Scotch-Brite Pad" to clean them up. Is this the best thing to use? Do they have different grits, if so what should I use? Where do I get them, AutoZone? Are they a hand held thing, rotory tool, drill attachment?

I was also wondering if I should have the rotors turned to clean everything off of them? Is that necessary? They said that it shouldn't be necessary since they only have "less than 5 miles on them". Just wondering what others thought.

I just want to make sure they mate up with my new HPS pads well.

Thanks!

NJ3

I also purchased rotors from newtakeoff.com. I just put them on my car with new pads and down the road I went. If you want to use a Scotch Brite pad to clean the up it won't hurt. They do come in different strength of courseness based on color, I would suggest red. You can get them at Walmart, paint stores or a hardware store in the paint department.

http://www.3m.com/us/home_leisure/sc..._scouring.html

Argonaut

Ditto - I just put them on and hammered it.

tx_zstang

sandpaper will work too, and maybe a cleaner (brake cleaner, or, gasoline).

danbevsv6rumbler

Yeah i use 120 grip paper a firmly sanded down my rotors yesterday before putting on my racing pads...

Silver Vert 06

Just put the rotors on. There's no need to clean them. After hitting the brakes just once they will be clean . Rotors rust so quickly. Next time you wash your car take a look at the brake rotors about a half hour after you finish. They will more than likely already have a thin coat of surface rust on them.

300GT

you're overthinking it - just put them on and the brake pads will remove all the rust from the contact area. And unless you plan on painting the areas that the pad doesn't make contact with (like the hub, for example) those stock rotors will always have a little bit of rust on them anyways. Not worth the effort to sand/Scotchbrite them.

ponyman

I think I may just try to scotch brite them then...i knwo that the pads will take off any rust on the contact area, but i want to make sure that the pads have a good clean surface so i can bed them in properly.

thanks for the input

157dB

Put a crosshatch pattern on them if you
are going to scotch brite them.
This will help bed the new pads.
Rotary scotchbrite and abrade them with
the rotors on the vehicle so you can rotate
the rotors around while you hold the drill in
one place to put a nice circular pattern on them.

And the pads themselves need to be properly
'broken in'. Just going out and "hammering it'
is not the proper procedure for bedding in new
pads to new rotors. Surface rust is fine but
any pitting of the surface is undesirable.

StopTech has great info on the subject of braking.

All brake pads must be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against to maximize brake performance. The bedding-in process involves a gradual build up of heat in the rotors and pad compound. This process will lay down a thin layer of transfer film on to the rotor surface. Following the bed-in procedures provided by the manufacturer will assure a smooth, even layer of transfer film on the rotor and will minimize brake judder. Here are a few things to keep in mind when installing new rotors and pads:

When installing new pads, the rotors should be new or at least resurfaced to remove any transfer film from the previous set of brake pads.

It is critical that the installer clean any rust, scale, or debris from the hub mounting surface thoroughly and check it for excessive run-out with a dial indicator gauge before installing the rotor.

The new rotor should also be checked for excessive run-out using a dial indicator gauge before the caliper and pads are installed. If a rotor has excessive run-out of over .004" (.10mm) it should be replaced.

If your new rotor has excessive run-out, please contact our customer service department for a replacement rotor. Do not install and drive using the rotor! Rotor manufacturers will not warranty a used rotor for excessive run-out. Running with excessive run-out on the hub or rotor will cause vibration issues.

Failure to follow these procedures may result in brake judder, excessive noise, or other difficulties in bedding-in the new brake pads. The pads need a fresh surface to lay down an even transfer film. Residue from the previous pad compound on the surface or an irregular surface on a used rotor will cause the pads to grip-slip-grip-slip as they pass over the rotor surface under pressure. The resulting vibration will cause noise and telegraph vibrations through the suspension and steering wheel. This vibration is known as brake judder or brake shimmy. This is typically caused by an uneven transfer film on the rotor surface or an uneven surface on the rotor not allowing that transfer film to develop evenly. This is often misdiagnosed as a warped rotor.

Bedding-in new pads and rotors should be done carefully and slowly. Rapid heat build up in the brake system can lead to warped rotors and or glazed brake pads. Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors.

SaddleUp

After sitting a while...my stock rotors used to get a little rusty. Just taking a drive in them seemed to shine them right back up.

I have since switched them to EBC rotors.